1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

[Ira Z.]

I have a '67 corvette 427/435 that had a dead battery. The battery was an Ultima AGM battery from 2010. I replaced it today with what appeared to be an identical battery. Unfortunately, the positive/negative posts were reversed and I hooked it up backwards.
There was smoke and a burning smell that came from the engine compartment almost immediately. It took me 10-15 seconds to remove and replace the cables properly. Now it appears as if there is no power going to the starter, radio, cabin light,.... It is as if the car has no battery installed. No sound whatsoever when I turn the key!

Any ideas on what I damaged or how I might start to troubleshoot this issue. Thank you.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Ira, Fortunately you are okay. Also quite fortunate that your Corvette is a 1967 as the wiring includes circuit protection at the main feed by using Fusible Links. What you smelled burning was likely what saved the car, those links. They're designed to do exactly that.

At the Starter Solenoid there are 2 Fusible links tied to the battery cable stud. The link for the #10 GA RED wire which feeds the entire car is likely blown, and the other link next to it which feeds the Battery meter(Blk/Wht) may also be blown. You can test the links by tugging on each end and if they stretch that means the wire is open inside the special hi-temp insulation.

There are also several fusible links at the Voltage Regulator and one at the Horn Relay Buss bar. Check those as well. Hopefully only the Main link at the starter solenoid stud is open.

To replace them you will have to cut and splice in replacements. NAPA would be a good source for replacements however won't appear similar to the originals if that's a concern.

Rich

[David H.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

When it rains it pours .....

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...e-67-Corvettes


Helpful info in today's thread on fusible links. (Hopefully not contagious!)

Dave

[Gene M.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Are the fuseable links directional like a diode? Otherwise just reversing the polarity why would the fuse blow without turning car on?

Motors & alternator would not like it but other components don't inhibit operation.

The posts are different size, how did you get the cable terminals on battery posts?

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Gene, not directional, just smaller wires. The smoke was likely from some links burning their hi Temp insulators. Clock runs at power up and I'm thinking now the diodes in the alternator being reversed polarized may have popped a link there too.

[Ira Z.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Richard and David,

Thank you for your reply. I will need to figure out where to get the fuseable links that match the originals. It is a Duntov car so I want to keep it that way.

Gene: I know the posts are different sizes but I just put the spring clamp on the first post and then put the cut-off switch adapter on the other. I should have paid more attention to the polarity but like I mentioned the battery was the same one I replaced and I didn't realize that they flip-flopped the positive and negative.

Ira

[Leif A.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Richard and David,

Thank you for your reply. I will need to figure out where to get the fuseable links that match the originals. It is a Duntov car so I want to keep it that way.

Gene: I know the posts are different sizes but I just put the spring clamp on the first post and then put the cut-off switch adapter on the other. I should have paid more attention to the polarity but like I mentioned the battery was the same one I replaced and I didn't realize that they flip-flopped the positive and negative.

Ira

Ira,
I bet you bought (or, the parts house sold you) the incorrect battery. You need a Group 24 battery for your '67. A Group 24F is the exact same size with the terminals reversed, as you say yours are. The Group 24F is for Fords (amongst others).

[Joe L.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Richard and David,

Thank you for your reply. I will need to figure out where to get the fuseable links that match the originals. It is a Duntov car so I want to keep it that way.

Gene: I know the posts are different sizes but I just put the spring clamp on the first post and then put the cut-off switch adapter on the other. I should have paid more attention to the polarity but like I mentioned the battery was the same one I replaced and I didn't realize that they flip-flopped the positive and negative.

Ira

Ira------


I think you will find it difficult, if not impossible, to obtain fusible links that will be identical in configuration to the originals. As originally constructed these were part of the wiring harness. When you splice in replacements, even if of the correct color, the configuration will be changed.

[Ira Z.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Ira,
I bet you bought (or, the parts house sold you) the incorrect battery. You need a Group 24 battery for your '67. A Group 24F is the exact same size with the terminals reversed, as you say yours are. The Group 24F is for Fords (amongst others).

Well Leif, This just gets more embarrassing for me. I just went and checked the battery and it is not a group 24, it's a group 35!
They have a computer program at the auto parts store where I purchased it and they plugged in 1967, Chevrolet, Corvette, 7.0 L engine - Group 35. There was actually a group 35 battery in the car for the last 7 years.

I checked the 1996 '67 Judging Guide and it doesn't say what group the original battery is. It says Delco R59 Energizer, part #1980030. I am not going to judge the car again and just drive for fun on nice weekends. Do I need to switch out this battery?
I fits on the tray just fine.

Thanks, Ira

[Ira Z.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Thank you Joe. Your response saved me some time trying to hunt them down. Ira

[Leif A.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Well Leif, This just gets more embarrassing for me. I just went and checked the battery and it is not a group 24, it's a group 35!
They have a computer program at the auto parts store where I purchased it and they plugged in 1967, Chevrolet, Corvette, 7.0 L engine - Group 35. There was actually a group 35 battery in the car for the last 7 years.

I checked the 1996 '67 Judging Guide and it doesn't say what group the original battery is. It says Delco R59 Energizer, part #1980030. I am not going to judge the car again and just drive for fun on nice weekends. Do I need to switch out this battery?
I fits on the tray just fine.

Thanks, Ira

Ira,
The Group 35 battery has the terminals in the reverse fashion of the correct Group 24. Though you have found it to be functional, I would take it back and install the correct battery. Your cables must be crossed or stretched to their limits using the Group 35.

[Gene M.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Richard and David,

Thank you for your reply. I will need to figure out where to get the fuseable links that match the originals. It is a Duntov car so I want to keep it that way.

Gene: I know the posts are different sizes but I just put the spring clamp on the first post and then put the cut-off switch adapter on the other. I should have paid more attention to the polarity but like I mentioned the battery was the same one I replaced and I didn't realize that they flip-flopped the positive and negative.

Ira

Suggest a junk harness and unwrap the end and carefully splice in solder and shrink tube it with fuse link followed by rewraping the harness.

[Richard M.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Suggest a junk harness and unwrap the end and carefully splice in solder and shrink tube it with fuse link followed by rewraping the harness.

I agree with Gene, and in fact, Ira, If you can, take some photos of the links that are blown after your diagnosis. I have many old harnesses here and I can cut the links out for you and you can solder splice them in. You'll have to unwrap some of the harness tape to get a good splice and then rewrap. I have some photos around here on the TDB somewhere with some examples.

One note, early '67 harnesses used a plug-in type link at the horn relay buss bar. Later in production it was changed to a fixed type with no plug.

I have both early and late here so email me via the messaging system, what you may need and they're yours for the shipping cost.

Rich

[Ed S.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

Ira------


I think you will find it difficult, if not impossible, to obtain fusible links that will be identical in configuration to the originals. As originally constructed these were part of the wiring harness. When you splice in replacements, even if of the correct color, the configuration will be changed.

I realize some might think this is blasphemy but.... just like rubber brake line hoses for C2, where original hoses with a double crimp are no longer available and are deemed not safe, so newer designs with multiple crimps are acceptable for judging, I would think the powers to be would consider allowing new replacement fusible links, in the interest of safety and preservation of rare cars - goes along with fire extinguishers and battery shut off switches. Just a thought.

[Gene M.]

Re: 1967 Battery Mishap - Burning smell

I agree with Gene, and in fact, Ira, If you can, take some photos of the links that are blown after your diagnosis. I have many old harnesses here and I can cut the links out for you and you can solder splice them in. You'll have to unwrap some of the harness tape to get a good splice and then rewrap. I have some photos around here on the TDB somewhere with some examples.

One note, early '67 harnesses used a plug-in type link at the horn relay buss bar. Later in production it was changed to a fixed type with no plug.

I have both early and late here so email me via the messaging system, what you may need and they're yours for the shipping cost.

Rich

Is not the fuse link at the voltage regulator? The harness diargram only shows a round dot on the orange wire. Nothing is mentioned of fuse.

My early 4XX has a hard wired fuse link at regulator. Original harness. The diagram does show an orange wire coming off horn relay with a splice that becomes black w/white stripe going to bulk head connector.

So I'm proposing the separate wire was only extreme very early.