headlight toggle switch rebuild

[Greg H.]

Does anyone have a source for replacement terminals on the headlight toggle switch? The one I bought at Carlisle is extremely corroded at the terminals and really not useable. I need the three terminals that plug into the connector on the dash wiring harness.

Thanks,
Greg

[Russ S.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

Corvettes don't use a toggle switch. It is a push-pull switch. Are you referring to the switch that turns the lights on?

[Rich G.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

If you mean the switch that rotates the headlight buckets, there was a good article in the Restorer a few issues back on repairing them. It was within the past year.

Rich

[Vinnie P.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

Winter 2016 issue of The Restorer, V42 #3 if you need a pdf, email me and I'll send it

restorereditor@ncrs.org

[Greg H.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

Winter 2016 issue of The Restorer, V42 #3 if you need a pdf, email me and I'll send it

restorereditor@ncrs.org

Thank you for this. I should have this issue in my pile. I should really look through these when I receive them but I rarely make time for it. I have my toggle switch apart and it does not look too bad inside. The terminals however are not serviceable.

Will find the article and bring up any further questions.

[Timothy B.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

Greg,

FWIW, my experience with the terminals is after you clean them they will corrode again because the plating is wore off causing resistance with contact.

[Greg H.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

Winter 2016 issue of The Restorer, V42 #3 if you need a pdf, email me and I'll send it

restorereditor@ncrs.org

I reviewed the article, and while it has some good info it falls short of the issues I am faced with. First, the clips to hold the connector from the harness to the housing were badly corroded and one was previously broken. The other was damaged upon removal. So is there a source for these? They look like copper plating in the article, but mine look like badly corroded spring steel.

Second major issue is the terminals on the housing. Mine again are badly corroded. I was willing to remove/replace them completely but not sure if there is a source.

Thanks for any help. Looks like I bought a switch from a Hurricane Sandy car. I can make it look good but those three terminals are pretty bad. Not sure if I can get away without the spring clips to hold it all together.

I am looking into riwire.com

[Timothy B.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

Greg,

I think that switch is made in reproduction and sold as GM restoration parts, may be available from GM dealer but not 100%. If you find NOS it will probably be $$ but much better than fooling around with a switch that may be problematic in the future.

[Greg H.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

I am still working on determining if I can rebuild this original switch. Noticed an add for rebuilt 68-82 power window switch looks like it uses the same terminals. Has anyone compared the guts of these two switches?

[Greg H.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

I am still working on determining if I can rebuild this original switch. Noticed an add for rebuilt 68-82 power window switch looks like it uses the same terminals. Has anyone compared the guts of these two switches?

Here is a picture of a 1964-1970 Cadillac window switch. Pretty similar. This same pin configuration carried through the 1982 Corvette. This Cadillac switch even appears to have the same clips to hold the mating connector.




And here is the switch I am dealing with.

[Joe R.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

Rebuilding the switch is not Rocket Science as I have saved many HL switches. The clips hold the contacts in place. Put a small screwdriver in the side at the clips and the whole switch comes apart. Clean the contacts and if you wish put some dielectric on the contacts to keep them from arcing again.
Put it back together and snap in the clips. Your done!
New switches are available from GM at about $100.00 per.

JR

[Bob W.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

Greg That looks pretty close. I think you will have to take it a part for a better look. Keep us posted .

Bob

[Richard M.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

Greg,

FWIW, my experience with the terminals is after you clean them they will corrode again because the plating is wore off causing resistance with contact.

Timothy, Yes, I think they're made of berillum copper and plated contacts. Once cleaned, they need to be cleaned always and forever. If the design ONLY included a relay it would have been much better on the switch.

JR is correct too. Easy as pie to open up and clean. Here are a bunch of photos to go with JR's words.

[Greg H.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

Yep, I have had no trouble getting mine apart. But look at the picture of my terminals compared to these. There is nothing left to "clean". They look like pigs teeth and my clips turned to dust. I basically have the copper contacts inside and the housing components to work with.

[Greg H.]

Re: headlight toggle switch rebuild

It's been a while since I have spent much time on the Corvette but I meant to update you all on how this worked out. Here are some pictures and explanation. I picked up a 60's vintage Cadillac power window switch. I would guess many GM switches could be used. My headlight switch came with a connector attached and badly corroded terminals. I tossed the connector as mine is still good, but the terminals were beyond repair. Here is a picture of my switch and the window switch. You can see the clips to hold the connector in place are also badly corroded and broken.


After dis-assembling the Gm switch I found it to be the same mechanism and the terminals matched for length and diameter. (I did see some other GM switches with slightly different terminals but they were for later years).



I could not use the clips from the Cadillac. Tried straightening and re-forming them but was unsuccessful. The size of the FR4 material was too large to fit the housing so I filed it down on each side and also filed the key slot to fit.



It fit nicely but the thickness of the FR4 was thinner than the plastic on the headlight switch. I had to find a plastic spacer to fill the gap between this and the connector. I then zip tied it all together through the holes int he housing and around the connector since the connector clips are now missing. It works splendidly but will not pass examination during judging. I'm happy with it for now.