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Re: #4657 Fuel Pump Question
I never throw anything away...
That is, I keep an item for 5 years and then toss it, two weeks before I find out I absolutely, positively need it again...Comment
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Re: #4657 Fuel Pump Question
Jason, I tried reading all the posts but didn't as usual Ricky and boys got off the subject. Whew!!!
Anyhow Jason the term Frog Pad term was invented by yours truly and my pal Jorjorian. He will probably take credit though.
So now you know what 4657 you need. One with all the screw holes with the same shaped bosses. No suffix after the 4657. These pumps are dated you know. Not sure if the boys told you and don't have time to read. Look in the deep round hole near one of the inlet or outlet fittings.
Look inside and you will see a date code. But this can't be read while on the car.
Most important of all is this. You need to have your 4657 pump rebuilt with a kit thats compatible for ethanol.
Google; Jacksons Oldtime parts. They have a pump rebuilt kit for alcohol. No the gaskets and materials are not the same as original.
Jacksons: 888-399-7278 sales@oldtimepart.com
One major tip on rebuilding the pump that others ignore or don't know any better.
Do not remove the pin holding all the actuating levers in. Don't know their proper name. The kits come with a pin with two c clips. You do not need to remove your original. Just clean up what you have.
Use a granite surface plate with 120/150 grit paper on both halves and the round bottom cover that is held on with two fillister screws.
The 10-32 x 5/8 screws have a logo on them. Think it's an "S" but forget. The bottom plate is has two longer fillister screws.
PCV valve: Original from the assembly line is a PCV 590 black valve with a free spinning round paper decal. Major bucks on Ebay.
Just use the sheet metal one that is 590C unless you are rich.
Long Island has a nice black AC 590 but test it before you use it. Meanwhile guys will make fun of a repro valve when in fact I have tested a bunch of NOS AC 590C and they leak like crazy.
Jerry Bramlett has a cure for this leakage. Maybe he will chirp in on another post as this post was about fuel pumps. Good luck, JohnComment
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Re: #4657 Fuel Pump Question
Yes, the repro PCV valves are crap - I put one on my car and it ran like a motorcycle...removed and put what the previous owner already had on it.
Some of those repro fuel pumps - including AirTek have the cam actuating arm pin 'walk' out over time - they aren't properly secured and a few have had the poppit valves fall out because they weren't properly staked in. Just because they are a good friction fit doesn't mean you can skip this step..
Somebody define "free spinning decal" for me; I'm struggling with the concept.Comment
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Re: #4657 Fuel Pump Question
Frank, I don't know the correct term. It's not a free spinning "decal" as I said. More like a free spinning label. JohnComment
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Re: #4657 Fuel Pump Question
After all this sweating of some pretty small details, I think I officially have what some people have called "NCRS-itis".
Most people would just care about a water pump or fuel pump that actually pumps fuel and water......but not us.
I sure did start up a fervor too..........Comment
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Re: #4657 Fuel Pump Question
WOW No one brought up that the pumps are also dated..... Phil 8063Comment
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Re: #4657 Fuel Pump Question
A couple of us actually did.
I had questioned whether the letter suffix after the "4657" on some pumps was a date code or not - it appears it is, and started showing up well after my '63 would have been built (shown as the "JF" in the pc below). I think someone mentioned this came into play part way into '65 earlier in this thread.
Aside from that date code - even if a suffix isn't showing, it turns out a date code can still be seen in that hole down by the threaded pump fitting - but can't be readily seen when installed on a car.
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