Top Causes of Corvette Fires

[Stuart F.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

What is the preferred method these days for replacing this hose and controlling the fuel flow/loss in the process. It's been quite awhile since I changed a fuel pump on mine. I seem to recall I pinched the hose with a vice grip pliers and inserted a tapered wood plug in the end of the hose that I had made for that purpose, but what method does one use to replace the entire hose?

Stu Fox

[Mark E.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

What is the preferred method these days for replacing this hose and controlling the fuel flow/loss in the process. It's been quite awhile since I changed a fuel pump on mine. I seem to recall I pinched the hose with a vice grip pliers and inserted a tapered wood plug in the end of the hose that I had made for that purpose, but what method does one use to replace the entire hose?

Stu Fox

Good question. I've used your pinch method, then disconnected the line at the pump, watched as some fuel drained on my arm, attached new hose to the pump, then quickly swapped the old hose for the new one on the fuel line, while watching more fuel drain on my arm.

I'm interested in learning a better method...

[Mark E.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

Not 15 seconds had elapsed...

It's scary how quickly this developed. I'm glad you were there to minimize damage.

Did this happen to the '59 listed in your signature?

[Mark E.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

Talk about not liking fuel hoses downstream of the fuel pump; what about 64 through 67's with Holley carbs? They all have fuel hoses from the factory from the filter to the carb.Stu Fox

Did the factory use rubber hose on some of these? I don't pay much attention to those primitive C2s but thought the fuel line looked something like this:

[Duke W.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

What is the preferred method these days for replacing this hose and controlling the fuel flow/loss in the process. It's been quite awhile since I changed a fuel pump on mine. I seem to recall I pinched the hose with a vice grip pliers and inserted a tapered wood plug in the end of the hose that I had made for that purpose, but what method does one use to replace the entire hose?

Stu Fox

Make sure the new hose is fresh SAE30R7. It should be ink printed on the hose about every foot. Measure the old hose and cut to proper length. Use a small C-clamp or other device to gently pinch off the hose to where you can't blow through it. Remove the clamps on the old hose. Whether Corbin or spring clip type you should be able to slide them off to the fuel pipe and pump inlet nipple.

Put a drain pan under the working area. Clamp off the old hose in a similar manner, then work the ends to where they are loose and you can twist the hose.

Remove the hose from the fuel pump nipple. A little fuel will spill. Now as quicky as you can remove the old hose from the fuel feed pipe and install the new hose. A little more fuel will spill. Then install on the fuel pump nipples and install the clamps.

It's a good idea to have a helper handy with a fire extinguisher readily at hand.

Here's an interesting story. Back when the AF assigned me to Grand Forks AFB in mid-'71 as a missile maintenance officer, I ordered a new '72 Vega GT from a Portland Chevy dealer in late summer. In October I drove the SWC to Seattle to store in my parents garage while I was in the far north. Since this was long term storage I changed the coolant and drained the fuel system.

When the AF transfered me to LA in mid-'74 I flew up to Seattle to pick up the SWC in March '75 after I had moved into my new house when I figured the Siskiyous would be clear of snow. (That turned out to be not the case, but it's a whole other story.)

After doing some basic checks I added a couple of gallons of fuel to the SWC and not long after saw fuel dripping from around the fuel pump. The hose had ruptured, So I removed the hose and plugged the pipe with my finger while my dad went down to a local gas station to get a length of hose. The gas station was owned by a high school classmate.

I think I played "Little Dutch Boy" plugging the dike for about 15 minutes. I slipped the hose over the fuel pump nipple and then removed my finger from the pipe and quickly attached the hose. Not much fuel actually spilled, but any spilled fuel is a significant fire hazard.

The hose from the fuel tank nipple should also be changed periodically. It won't deteriorate as fast because it's not exposed to hilgh heat, but if you don't know how old it is, at least inspect it, and changing it is easy once you remove the spare tire carrier.

Duke

[Art B.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

Some of the posters mentioned deteriorated or faulty wiring. Several years ago there was an article in the Restorer about adding a fusible link to the main wire coming from the solenoid on C1s and early C2s. Much of the wiring under the dash is unprotected and the fusible link will keep the wiring harness from burning due to a short. I understand there were several fires due to this problem. Apparently GM fixed this in 1967.

[Brad K.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

Art....Do you happen to remember which issue of the Restorer the fuse article was in? It would be right up my C1 alley! I suppose one could purchase any old fusible link from an auto parts store and install it in series....the wire that I had issues with was the red 12 gauge wire from the ammeter to the voltage regulator. It runs very close to the exhaust manifold and any contact at all with the hot manifold would be bad indeed.....This is a warning to all C1 owners!....Go out to your garage and take a look....you'll see what I mean....Brad

[Stuart F.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

Mark;

Perhaps I should not have used the word "all" 64's thru 67's, but the engine you show in your picture is the first one I've seen with a Holley and steel valve covers. Guess I'm used to SHP small blocks that have inline fuel filters. What year and horsepower engine is the one in your photo?

Stu Fox

[Mark E.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

Mark;

Perhaps I should not have used the word "all" 64's thru 67's, but the engine you show in your picture is the first one I've seen with a Holley and steel valve covers. Guess I'm used to SHP small blocks that have inline fuel filters. What year and horsepower engine is the one in your photo?
Stu Fox

I pulled the photo from Google images, so I don't know the car's vintage. I'm not a C2 expert so I'm going out on a limb here, but as I recall after Corvette phased out Carter carbs in the mid-60s there were two or three model years when all engines had one or more Holleys, even the base engine. Maybe this happened when 300HP became standard? So the photo might be a 300HP base engine from '66 or '67. I'm sure one of the many experts on the Forum can tell us...

But didn't engines with factory in-line fuel filters also feature all steel lines?

[Art B.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

Art....Do you happen to remember which issue of the Restorer the fuse article was in? It would be right up my C1 alley! I suppose one could purchase any old fusible link from an auto parts store and install it in series....the wire that I had issues with was the red 12 gauge wire from the ammeter to the voltage regulator. It runs very close to the exhaust manifold and any contact at all with the hot manifold would be bad indeed.....This is a warning to all C1 owners!....Go out to your garage and take a look....you'll see what I mean....Brad

Brad: I don't have the issue number but the article was entitled: "The Electrical Safety Net For Your Early Corvette" written by Jeff Bernhardt.
Perhaps you can find it in the archives. The fusible link is a 14 gauge wire about 6 to 8 inches long that is wired in to the main wire coming off the solenoid. I found mine at NAPA for a little over $3.
Art

[Mark E.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

Talk about not liking fuel hoses downstream of the fuel pump; what about 64 through 67's with Holley carbs? They all have fuel hoses from the factory from the filter to the carb. I use one myself on my 63 L-76 because I raised my carb about 3/8" with an insulator and that was the only way I could make the connection. It is short and of good quality fuel hose. Then too, back in the day; many of us had multiple carb setups with fuel blocks and hoses.Stu Fox

I Googled your engine, "1963 L76" and found these two images. Were these engines factory equipped with a Carter AFB like these two, or a Holley as you mention?

Each appears to have an in-line filter and an all steel fuel line.

[Frank D.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

C1s are particularly susceptible to electrical fires as they are lightly fused and have "full flow" ammeters in the dash. The simple expedient of putting a 30 amp ATC blade-type fuse in the black wire from the ammeter to the battery can save a car and protects 90+% of the wiring.
For a little more safety adding a fuse to the clock (if its original) and the cigarette lighter power leads are good ideas as well.

[Steven B.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

I had to look close. It looks like my car except for the color. Mine is a 67 with a holley list 3810, June 23rd car steel fuel line from pump to carb.

.P4261174.jpg

Steve

[Brad K.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

Art and Frank....Thanks for the info.....Brad

[Terry M.]

Re: Top Causes of Corvette Fires

To change the hose at the fuel pump one can pinch (vice-grips, c-clamp, or one of the plastic tools made for this purpose) the hose at the fuel tank to the pipe on the frame rail. If properly done the fuel in the metal line will stay there just like putting your finger over the top of a straw in a glass of liquid.

The hose at the fuel tank should occasionally be changed also, and for this one needs to use the plug and switch method or completely drain the fuel tank (as if for long term storage).

Edit add: FWIW the newer alcohol resistant fuel line Duke mentions is almost never the same outer diameter as the original fuel line from early C3s (1968-1972). I expect the same would apply to C2s and C1s. Be sure to have some fuel line clamps on hand that will fit the new hose because the chances of your original fuel line clamps fitting the new hose are about nil.