Rotor Rivets on rear hub

[Jim T.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Greg I have two original owner Corvettes, 1968 and 1970. The 70 while still under the factory warranty (5 years) had both rear wheel bearings replaced. The largest Chevrolet dealership in Dallas, TX did the work before 1975. The rivets were removed and new spindles and bearings were used. This service produced to much rotor runout and my 1970 would lose braking on the rear wheels because of the calipers intake of air.
I solved the problem eventually. I bought the Kent Moore tools to remove the rear spindles and sent the spindles and discs to Bairs and had the discs riveted and trued to the spindle. No more rotor runout and trouble free rear braking. My only regret is that I did not know of Bairs type of service when the rotor runout problem, no rear brakes occurred.
My 1968 still has the original factory rear riveted discs and spindles. I have only removed them to repack/grease the wheel bearings. With my experience I do not recommend removing rivets.

[Joe L.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Wasn't there a post quite a while back where the user marked the relative location of rotor and hub so that ,once the rivets were removed, they could be reinstalled in the correct clock location? That way, no matter what work was performed, the two components could be reinstalled as built.

Gary-------


Once the rivets are removed, one often finds that even if the rotor and spindle are indexed as-original, the runout will be excessive. This will often occur even if the mating surfaces of the spindle and the rotor are scrupulously cleaned. I believe this is the reason that GM revised the procedure after 1973. Otherwise, they could have just recommended the original procedure (i.e. including drilling out the rivets) but additionally specified to ensure the spindle and rotor are indexed as-original.

[Greg W.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

OK, I just got home from work and thought about this all day. I rarely drive the car so it sitting until I fix it right will not hurt at all. To pull the spindle , remove the half shaft, retaining nut, and will the spindle come out or do you need to pull the trailing arm out to press out the spindle. Am I getting in over my head. Help! I have half assed things in the past to get them on the road ,but this does not need to be one of them. Any input will help, Thanks again everyone!!!!

[Jim T.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Greg the wheel bearings are not a slip fit on the spindle shaft. With the correct Kent Moore tools the spindle can be pressed out while the control arm remains on the car. Not knowing the history of your Corvette, your bearings may never have been removed for cleaning and new grease and seals. To install a new outer seal will be an enlighting experience. You could save time and frustration by removing your rear control arms and sending them to www.bairs.com who also advertises in the NCRS Driveline. Visit his web page and see the list of new parts he uses in the rebuild of a control arm and all the listed labor that is done with a guarantee. New front bushing in the control arm among the rest of parts. Bairs will ship you boxes to ship your control arms in.

[Gary R.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

OK, I just got home from work and thought about this all day. I rarely drive the car so it sitting until I fix it right will not hurt at all. To pull the spindle , remove the half shaft, retaining nut, and will the spindle come out or do you need to pull the trailing arm out to press out the spindle. Am I getting in over my head. Help! I have half assed things in the past to get them on the road ,but this does not need to be one of them. Any input will help, Thanks again everyone!!!!

Greg,
As mentioned these can be involved. The spindle bearings are press fit to a specification, which is 001-008", although 0015-002 is where I set them to. Rather then go over it yet again, here is a link on a thread I started way back when. If nothing else it has a lot of pictures, some distractors who turned out to be vendor related, and help if you need it. Feel free to contact me and I can walk you through it. I prefer to machine fit the parts but most bolt them up using shim kits.
Good luck

http://www.digitalcorvettes.com/forums/showthread.php?t=77000

[Greg W.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Jim, Bairs rebuilt both trailing arms on 12/4/93 for Joe Perri who restored the car and I have the receipts. There is only 6000 miles since then. That said I think I would feel better pulling the arms off and sending them out. I may screw something up I cant fix. In 93 bairs was 299.00 to rebuild them. I bet more now !

[Jim T.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Greg it will only cost your time and a phone call to tell Bairs what has happened to the wheel studs on the arms he rebuilt with now only 6,000 miles on them. He could very surprise you on what it would cost. I believe the torque on wheel studs for your car is in the 70 range. I think the torque on my 68 is only about 70 ft lbs, that should not be enough to twist off a lug stud. Your receipts you have will be good information.

[Greg W.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Jim, Called Bairs today and there sending ne a box to ship them in. Great info and I could not buy the parts for what he said it will cost. Now I have to pull the trailing arm. Is there anything I should be aware of when doing this ? Thanks all

[Mike E.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Now I have to pull the trailing arm. Is there anything I should be aware of when doing this ? Thanks all

It probably goes without saying but keep track of the alignment shims. It still should be checked when your done, putting the same shims back will get you at least a starting point.

Mike

[Jim T.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Greg it is good to read that Bairs is going to fix your problem. I have never removed a control arm when doing my bearing/spindle removal. Mike's post about keeping the alignment shims in their replaced positions is good. I do not know if it can be done, but removing the caliper retention bolts and suspending the caliper without removing the brake line would keep you from having to bleed the caliper. Since the control arm/shock bolt has been removed before you should not have much trouble removing it. Take your time and post help wanted for the removal if you need it.

[Greg W.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Thanks to all, I am glad I took your advice and I pulled the trailing arm out in 2 1/2 hours. Not one bolt rusted at all. Next to sent it off to Bairs. One question, The strut rod shaft looks like it is on a slight angle with the shock mount. Is this correct or is it bent. Does anyone have a picture they could post (66) of this for me to look at. Again thanks all who helped.Greg

[Joe L.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Thanks to all, I am glad I took your advice and I pulled the trailing arm out in 2 1/2 hours. Not one bolt rusted at all. Next to sent it off to Bairs. One question, The strut rod shaft looks like it is on a slight angle with the shock mount. Is this correct or is it bent. Does anyone have a picture they could post (66) of this for me to look at. Again thanks all who helped.Greg

Greg-------


A slight angle on the shaft is correct.

[Joe L.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Greg it is good to read that Bairs is going to fix your problem. I have never removed a control arm when doing my bearing/spindle removal. Mike's post about keeping the alignment shims in their replaced positions is good. I do not know if it can be done, but removing the caliper retention bolts and suspending the caliper without removing the brake line would keep you from having to bleed the caliper. Since the control arm/shock bolt has been removed before you should not have much trouble removing it. Take your time and post help wanted for the removal if you need it.

Jim------


It can't be done without cutting the brake line bracket welded to the trailing arm. I do not recommend doing this.

[Greg W.]

Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

Joe

Thanks for the angle question answer. Also the brake line is in the way of the rear caliper bolt.I caped off the at the flex hose so I would not loose all the fluid. The only problem I see is getting the shims back in on the front of the arm. Put the bolt in first then drive so to speek the shims in???