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Rotor Rivets on rear hub

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  • Greg W.
    Very Frequent User
    • February 26, 2015
    • 141

    Rotor Rivets on rear hub

    I am in need of help and/or suggestions on the replacement of rear stud lugs on a '66. Is it possible to just drill out the rivets from the disc to the axle spindle and slip the lugs in from behind or will I need to pull the spindle from the trailing arm?(which I believe is a much bigger job) I have read and been told both ways that the rivets will and will not need to be replaced. Any thoughts on this? Any help will be much appreciated. Thanks.
    -Greg
  • Wayne W.
    Extremely Frequent Poster
    • April 30, 1982
    • 3605

    #2
    Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

    You will have to cut off the lugs just enough to install them from the rear. They will be a little shorter, but long enough. You will have to remove the rotor.

    Comment

    • Greg W.
      Very Frequent User
      • February 26, 2015
      • 141

      #3
      Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

      Wayne, Thanks for the advice. Will I have a problem with no rivets or rotor runout when I reinstall the rotor without the rivets. Thanks again

      Comment

      • Michael W.
        Expired
        • April 1, 1997
        • 4290

        #4
        Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

        If the bearings were serviced more than 40K miles ago or you just don't know, then it makes sense to pull the spindles apart and do both jobs now.

        Comment

        • Greg W.
          Very Frequent User
          • February 26, 2015
          • 141

          #5
          Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

          The car has only 6000 miles on it from a frame off restore but that was in 1997.Will time matter.

          Comment

          • Steve G.
            Expired
            • November 24, 2014
            • 411

            #6
            Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

            My opinion,for what it's worth.

            I try to preserve the riveted rotors to shaft whenever I can. Fewer issues with run-out in my experience.

            I wouldn't want to cut down wheel studs so that I could get them in.

            Depending on the type and quality of grease used, age can be a factor. Some greases, particularly run of the mill EP2, can congeal over time.

            Using the right tool for the job (a bearing splitter of good quality) the hub can be disassembled and the 6000 mi bearings reused without issue. Replace the grease and the seals. Measure end play b4 disassembly and if within spec and the orig bearings being used, no need to change any shimming or setup.

            If only 6000 mi and stored in a reasonable place, removing the trailing arms for work should be a breeze. It's the rusted bolts in the bushings that make the job tedious.

            I would pull the spindles apart to replace the studs.

            Steve

            Comment

            • Michael W.
              Expired
              • April 1, 1997
              • 4290

              #7
              Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

              Agree with Steve.

              Comment

              • Joe L.
                Beyond Control Poster
                • February 1, 1988
                • 43211

                #8
                Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

                Originally posted by Greg Welsh (60997)
                The car has only 6000 miles on it from a frame off restore but that was in 1997.Will time matter.

                Greg-------


                It's always preferable to leave the spindles riveted to the rotors unless, of course, either the spindle or rotor has to be replaced. In fact, once-upon-a-time, GM service procedures called for the removal of the rivets for most trailing arm service operations (e.g. bearing replacement, etc.). Beginning in 1974, GM changed that and recommended that the spindles NOT be separated from the rotor except when necessary to replace a spindle or rotor (rear spindle/rotor ASSEMBLIES were never available in SERVICE). I expect the reason for this change in procedure was that, by that time, the problems associated with the original procedure became so well known that the revision became well advised.

                By the way, if the car has only 6000 miles since a "frame-off restoration" which I believe you are implying also meant complete rebuild of all chassis components, why does it need new wheel lug bolts now? That might mean that the "restoration" was not as complete as you believe. In any event, if the rear trailing arms were fully rebuilt 6000 miles ago, the spindle/rotor assemblies should come out without too much trouble.
                In Appreciation of John Hinckley

                Comment

                • Wayne W.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • April 30, 1982
                  • 3605

                  #9
                  Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

                  I agree with you too, but he asked if he could do it, and yes, it can be done. There is no reason at all that seperated rotors wont run just as true as those that are rivited, and removing rivets shouldnt cause any issues with runnout. Issues are caused by not completely removing the rivet or failing to clean the surfaces.

                  Comment

                  • Steve G.
                    Expired
                    • November 24, 2014
                    • 411

                    #10
                    Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

                    Originally posted by Wayne Womble (5569)
                    There is no reason at all that seperated rotors wont run just as true as those that are rivited, and removing rivets shouldnt cause any issues with runnout. Issues are caused by not completely removing the rivet or failing to clean the surfaces.
                    And by clocking the rotor on the hub face differently. If it's riveted that can't happen.

                    Steve

                    Comment

                    • Greg W.
                      Very Frequent User
                      • February 26, 2015
                      • 141

                      #11
                      Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

                      Thanks for the input guys. I know that I should pull the spindle to do it, just don't really want to do it right now. Better winter project. Will I need to pull the trailing arm to do this? And I broke off the stud changing the tire in the garage. STUPID MOVE . Would just replacing the stud give me a problem until winter ? And the frame was all redone and I have the bills and pics. NO this one was all on ME. Thanks again

                      Comment

                      • Gary S.
                        Extremely Frequent Poster
                        • July 31, 1992
                        • 1632

                        #12
                        Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

                        Wasn't there a post quite a while back where the user marked the relative location of rotor and hub so that ,once the rivets were removed, they could be reinstalled in the correct clock location? That way, no matter what work was performed, the two components could be reinstalled as built.

                        Comment

                        • Steve G.
                          Expired
                          • November 24, 2014
                          • 411

                          #13
                          Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

                          Originally posted by Gary Schisler (21316)
                          Wasn't there a post quite a while back where the user marked the relative location of rotor and hub so that ,once the rivets were removed, they could be reinstalled in the correct clock location? That way, no matter what work was performed, the two components could be reinstalled as built.
                          Yes, that's what should be done if you remove the rotor. Unfortunately, it's not always done or not always maintained.

                          Greg,

                          It's an afternoon job to do it right. Drilling out the rivets doesn't happen in a couple of minutes. By the time you have the rotor and caliper removed you are a third to half way to doing the job right, time wise.

                          Steve

                          Comment

                          • Mike E.
                            Very Frequent User
                            • June 24, 2012
                            • 920

                            #14
                            Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

                            On the rears I was thinking if you want the parking brake adjustment holes to line up on the rotor and hub you can only index them one way.

                            Mike

                            Comment

                            • Steve G.
                              Expired
                              • November 24, 2014
                              • 411

                              #15
                              Re: Rotor Rivets on rear hub

                              Greg,
                              One other thing. If you over tightened the other studs in the incident that broke the one you want to replace, I would replace them all. If they have been stretched they are compromised and can break down the road, literally.

                              Steve

                              Comment

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