Fiberglass Bodywork Question

[Roger W.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

I have to say again: You always learn something useful on this board. I am going to get my laminate roller out and try the overlay trick on my next repair.

[Chris S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

in the 1:20 point of the You tube video, the tech is spraying a gray gelcoat onto the molds. Both 53 Corvettes I stripped had this same Gray gelcoat. 1 was an original paint car! The cloth texture should not show through in a proper restoration. This "print through" was not evident when new. Print through is a product of age and shrinkage. The gelcoat is there to suppress this for a length of time.

Joe - I will respectfully disagree - no 53's where gel coated - I think what you are seeing is a release agent because if you look further in the video you will see the parts are bare glass as they assembled the cars. - I have 2 1953's here and will soon have 2 more - Brett Henderson confirmed and he has done and seen more 53's than anyone. If yours are gel coated is wasnt by GM. Nolan will also confirm. The NCRS JM also confirms the print thru..... Hope this helps

[Gene T.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

I had trouble with dark gray wet spots on the top of the front fenders on a '65 when I had the paint off. I tried scrubbing the undersides thinking that road grime was filtering onto the top surface. I used Acetone to remove the 'wet spot' place and then it would come back; more prevalent if the car was out in the sun on a hot day.

[John L.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Just a follow up to Chris's comments and not "highjack" the thread but I am working on an early 1954 (068) early January production as Chris knows. The hood and rear convertible deck had the whiteish telltale pressed fiberglass while the trunk and doors were the hand laid - terrible finish on the hood and doors that seemed to have deterioriated over time. Bottom outer rockers, front and rear bottom valance seem to be the white pressed molded material as well.
In the 1953 video you see the blue release agent that was sprayed on the hand laid fiberglass molds first then the resin and mat was added to form the part. While working on the underside of the dash on my car I was puzzled why someone would have painted the the backside of the fiberglass blue - then I realized this was the release spray. It wiped off very easly with acetone to reveal nice looking old fiberglass. if only the outside was that nice.
John

[Domenic T.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

I would like to add that to much resin is not good. That's one of the reasons why the factory used the press mold. The strength is in the glass, not the resin.
Gell coats, like they use on boats will crack and also shrink over time. I bought a repo front end that was gell coated and then had the glass applied with a chopper gun. It finally stopped cracking about 30years later. Try to squeeze as much resin out as possible and if you buy a glass part, get one that is press moulded. It will look great for years and the thickness is controlled and makes the fit easy.
On the small cracks like the ones around C2 headlights or at the window edges a good repair is JB weld, after you V the crack with a Dremmel or other. I have seen resin repaired cracks only come back to haunt you after years.
I don't think there was ever a non shrinking resin or primer made regardless of the claims on the can. A good epoxy primer will lock down
unwanted hairs in bare spots and seems to hold it's shape and not shrink. That's what has works best for me, but there will be other opinions and methods.

Dom

[Craig O.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

What is the correct fiberglass cloth used on a '53?

[Chris S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Do you mean what oz /weight?
6 oz
If you look at the video you will see a layer of cloth then mat then another layer of cloth.

[Craig O.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Thanks Chris!