Fiberglass Bodywork Question

[Bob B.]

[Steven S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Resin is designed to work with 1.2% catalyst at 77 degrees. You should use less or more depending on temp. Never use more than 3% or less than .9%. The resin you buy is pre-promoted and has a set get time based on above catalyst adds. What you need for larger jobs is a resin with a longer gel time. Longest is usually no more than 30 or 35 minutes. Where ever you buy resin, you need to ask about gel times.

[Tracy C.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

The longer it stays in the cup the faster it will kick. As it starts to kick the temperature rises (exotherm). If you can dump it across your repair area soon after mixing you will gain at least 5-10 minutes on your work time. You can use a body putty spreader to move the resin around your repair much faster than using a brush.

Be sure you have fresh resin and hardener. If your hardener is older than 6 months, I would not use it. If your resin is older than a year, I would not use it either.

tc

[Michael G.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

All solid advise. Don't get in a hurry, this is a marathon not a sprint. If you goof it up, let it harden and buzz it back down, one reason I love 'glass' work!

Oh, one more thing....up the size of your font. I had to get the super-duper magnifiers out

[Chris S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

for large repair areas I use a 3 inch paint roller (disposable - Home Depot) and a small paint tray for a 3 in roller (throw away - Home depot)
I recently did a repair prob 3 ft by 2 feet and several layers of cloth.
I use about 10 drops per oz and that gives me plenty of working time......

[Jill J.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

I like using the individual "cat hair" fiberglass versus the matte fiberglass. Personally, I think it's a much stronger bond because you can get those fibers crammed into a lot of the voided spaces the matte just won't cooperate with. Here are some pictures. I had to rebuild my rear tabs (drip edging that fit under the bumpers) because someone decided they were going to (or attempt to) make mine a hotrod and cut them off. I apply resin and cat hair, grind, apply resin and cat hair, grind, apply resin and cat hair, and grind (you get the idea) until I get the correct finished look and feel. With this method, I used a very minute amount of the matte and I'm very pleased with the results.

Good luck with your fiberglass work. I had a lot of repairs too and just finished the body repairs (with a very small amount of repairs to do to the external components - hood, trunk, deck lid) a couple of weeks ago. I'm in the process of blocking and sanding. I hope to apply filler primer from the firewall forward this weekend (if I can finish the first phase of sanding).

Jill, 59140

[Mark E.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

To clarify, for Corvette body work, always use fiberglass mat; never use fiberglass cloth. Cloth leaves its characteristic pattern in the body.

[Chris S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

To clarify, for Corvette body work, always use fiberglass mat; never use fiberglass cloth. Cloth leaves its characteristic pattern in the body.

for 1953's you do...... ( I am working on two....)

[Mark E.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

I've heard that 1953 used fiberglass cloth rather than mat. Is this true? How do you prevent the weave from showing through the paint?

[Steven S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

I believe all 53 parts were hand laid and molds were gel coated. This would suppress print through.

[Richard M.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Jill,

Excellent repair work there !!!

I also like the material choice. I cut my heavy duty mat into small hairs like that for similar repairs.

Are you planning to re-install the round head soft aluminum rivets, for "the appearance" ?

Rich

[Chris S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

I've heard that 1953 used fiberglass cloth rather than mat. Is this true? How do you prevent the weave from showing through the paint?

all 1953 where hand laid cloth - later in production some of the parts where pressmolded - and yes the cloth will show thru - normal ! here is how 53's where made - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Oxyy8_K03w0 - you will see the mold is upside down then they added layers of cloth and resin - (OSHA approved of course..... )

[Chris S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

I believe all 53 parts were hand laid and molds were gel coated. This would suppress print through.

no Corvettes where gel coated. The cloth will show thru...normal

[Jill J.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Jill,

Excellent repair work there !!!

I also like the material choice. I cut my heavy duty mat into small hairs like that for similar repairs.

Are you planning to re-install the round head soft aluminum rivets, for "the appearance" ?

Rich

Hi Rich.

Thanks for the complement on the repair work. I would like to also comment that I've had some great mentors in my local area who have helped me with my restoration - Gary Summerville and Roger Bradley. They're really great resources and everyone I talk to here says "they're the best." Of course, I also have my NCRS buddies that are really great that have helped me out a time or two...

Yes, I plan to re-install the rivets in the tabs so everything will be period correct. And, I'm also getting ready to place my order with Al Knoch for all of my interior turquoise pieces. ...will either be this week or next week. I can't wait!!

Jill, 59140

[Chris S.]

Re: Fiberglass Bodywork Question

Jill - your flanges look great - so many of them got "smoothed" over the years.