Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

[Duke W.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

The rationale for using the second type is that all(??) spin-on filters already contain a built-in pressure release valve.

Oil filters can have two types of built-in valves (or none) - pressure release (bypass) and anti-drain-back. The PF25 has neither. The current replacement PF454 has an anti-drain-back valve, but such is not necessary for the "right side up" filter mounting on vintage Corvette engines.

Anti-drain-back valves are useful for "upside down" filter installations.

Usually one can tell the type(s) of built-in valves (if any) by careful visual inspection and understanding the direction of oil flow, but it can be tricky.

I'm not sure about current models, but BMWs from the nineties-2000s have a cartidge type filter mounted near the front of the engine. The dipstick tube is also large and designed for an "oil extractor"... seems that in Europe it's common to change oil with the extractor and change the filter cartridge, which doesn't require the car to go on a lift and removal of the typical underbody panel below the engine compartment that is there for aerodynamic purposes. Also, a lot of diesels (about 40 percent of new cars sold in Europe are diesels) are "encapsulted" by acoustical insulation at the sides and bottom of the engine compartment, so access to the bottom of the engine is not easy.

Duke

[Stuart F.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

Joe;

Maybe you and I could test each type; Mine being the Cal Custom version w/o the engine by-pass valve, and yours being the Trans-Dapt kit which uses the engine by-pass valve. I doubt we'd learn much about the operation unless one of us lost an engine, however; we'd probably have an opinion as to the ease of installation and oil changes in the future.

Duke;

Thanks for your input. I learned a lot already. The spin-on filters that I bought some years ago to use with the conversion kit are Wix #51515. They are really a work of art; They have both a By-Pass Valve and a Silicone Anti-Drain Back Valve. Oddly, another reason I chose them is that they are painted black so the casual observer at a car show probably wouldn't know the difference.

Stu Fox

[Joe L.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

I'm hoping that some of the experienced folks here can answer Stuart's original question. I have the same question.

I am definitely switching to a spin-on filter for an engine that I'm building right now, so I don't want to debate canisters versus spin-on filters. I simply want to use the "best" spin-on adapter and the "best" spin-on filters.

In researching spin-on adapters I realized that there are two types, as Stuart noted in his original post. One type is a pure add-on that leaves the original bypass valve in place. The other type completely replaces that assembly with an adapter that contains no bypass valve. The rationale for using the second type is that all(??) spin-on filters already contain a built-in pressure release valve.

I decided to purchase the Trans-Dapt version of the type that contains no pressure release valve. This seemed like a cleaner way to go that involves fewer gaskets, and also avoids redundant pressure relief valves.

I'm curious as to whether GM eliminated the external pressure relief valve when they switched their production designs to use spin-on filters starting around 1970(?) or so. In other words, does the Trans-Dapt unit that I bought simply duplicate what GM did when they switched to spin-on filters?

I have not installed the Trans-Dapt unit yet, and I have the same question Stuart has. Namely, is one style better than the other?

Joe and Stu------


Here's the deal: There have been two types of spin-on oil filter conversion kits on the market for YEARS. As you have described, one type uses an adapter with an integral pressure relief valve and the other has no such valve. The type with the integral pressure relief valve uses the AC PF-25 series or equivalent filter. The PF-25 series has no pressure relief valve integral with the filter. The type without the integral pressure relief valve uses the AC PF-2 series or equivalent filter which does incorporate an integral pressure relief valve in the filter. The PF-2 was commonly used on Ford vehicles but others as well.

The PF-25 series and PF-2 series use different threads, so there is no danger that the wrong filter can be installed. The PF-2 uses 3/4-16 thread pitch and the PF-25 uses 13/16-16 thread pitch.

The PF-2 has an integral pressure relief valve which relieves at 8-11 PSI. I've forgotten the relief pressure for the adapter used with the PF-25 but I vaguely recall it's about the same.

So, assuming I'm correct about the relief pressure for the PF-25 adapter, there really is not very much difference between using either style conversion kit. However, if it were me, I'd only want to use the conversion kit that uses the PF-25 filter. I mean, would you want to install a conversion kit on a Corvette that uses a Ford filter? But, as far as functionality goes, I don't think there's much difference.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

Thanks Joe for the very useful information. I'm not crazy about using a Ford spec filter, but it's what I have. I bought the kit many many years ago and, I dare say, may have been the only one on the market at the time.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Trans-Dapt kit integral PRV is actually the same GM piece that is standard equipment with our engines. It appears to be the same, and is listed by the same part number for use with either the Trans-Dapt kit or as the replacement part for the PRV used with a cartridge filter assembly.

The Trans-Dapt kit is not a big ticket item so I might still get one, use my existing PRV, and still use black Wix filters. I assume they have a replacement for a PF-25.

Thanks again.

Stu Fox

[Joe R.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

Joe and Stu------


Here's the deal: There have been two types of spin-on oil filter conversion kits on the market for YEARS. As you have described, one type uses an adapter with an integral pressure relief valve and the other has no such valve. The type with the integral pressure relief valve uses the AC PF-25 series or equivalent filter. The PF-25 series has no pressure relief valve integral with the filter. The type without the integral pressure relief valve uses the AC PF-2 series or equivalent filter which does incorporate an integral pressure relief valve in the filter. The PF-2 was commonly used on Ford vehicles but others as well.

The PF-25 series and PF-2 series use different threads, so there is no danger that the wrong filter can be installed. The PF-2 uses 3/4-16 thread pitch and the PF-25 uses 13/16-16 thread pitch.

The PF-2 has an integral pressure relief valve which relieves at 8-11 PSI. I've forgotten the relief pressure for the adapter used with the PF-25 but I vaguely recall it's about the same.

So, assuming I'm correct about the relief pressure for the PF-25 adapter, there really is not very much difference between using either style conversion kit. However, if it were me, I'd only want to use the conversion kit that uses the PF-25 filter. I mean, would you want to install a conversion kit on a Corvette that uses a Ford filter? But, as far as functionality goes, I don't think there's much difference.

Hi Joe:

Thanks for the clarification. It's good to know that due to the different thread arrangements, there is no way to combine one style of adapter with the other style of spin-on filter. In other words, the differences in the threads used for the spin-on filter ensure that the overall assembly always contains a pressure relief valve.

As far as I could tell when I was researching this, neither of the two adapter styles currently on the market comes with a pressure relief valve installed. Rather, the adapters intended for a non-pressure-relief type of spin-on filter require that you retain the factory pressure relief valve assembly. Basically, you install the adapter *over* the original factory-type pressure relief valve, and then install the spin-on filter to the adapter.

One thing that worried me was that for this type of installation, when you install the adapter, the adapter gets sealed to the block using the same style of rubber O-ring that is used for the old canister-style filters (I'm using the term "O-ring" loosely, since the cross section is actually square). This O-ring remains in place "forever," and the added adapter provides a new sealing surface for the spin-on filter. I worried that the old-style O-rings were not intended to last "forever," and that over time the O-ring might harden and fail. I'm probably worrying too much though.

Based on this concern, I purchased (but have not yet installed) the Trans-Dapt 1024, which has no built-in pressure relief valve and uses a 3/4-16 nipple. The instructions say to remove and discard the factory pressure relief valve and use a Fram PH-8 filter, which I presume contains a pressure release valve. Upon close inspection of the design of the Trans-Dapt 1024, I'm not completely thrilled with that design either.

I have a used version of the other adapter style on-hand, so I'm going to compare them carefully before I decide which one to use.

[Stuart F.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

I guess I asked for it, so now I'm confused. So, I too will study both kits (I'll buy one of the other (?) kits and compare). Since my major problem during my last oil change was the "square O-Ring", that may be of concern to me. Also, I will look into filter availability. WOW!, there is more to this than I figured.

Thanks everyone for your contributions.

Stu Fox

[Joe L.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

Hi Joe:

Thanks for the clarification. It's good to know that due to the different thread arrangements, there is no way to combine one style of adapter with the other style of spin-on filter. In other words, the differences in the threads used for the spin-on filter ensure that the overall assembly always contains a pressure relief valve.

As far as I could tell when I was researching this, neither of the two adapter styles currently on the market comes with a pressure relief valve installed. Rather, the adapters intended for a non-pressure-relief type of spin-on filter require that you retain the factory pressure relief valve assembly. Basically, you install the adapter *over* the original factory-type pressure relief valve, and then install the spin-on filter to the adapter.

One thing that worried me was that for this type of installation, when you install the adapter, the adapter gets sealed to the block using the same style of rubber O-ring that is used for the old canister-style filters (I'm using the term "O-ring" loosely, since the cross section is actually square). This O-ring remains in place "forever," and the added adapter provides a new sealing surface for the spin-on filter. I worried that the old-style O-rings were not intended to last "forever," and that over time the O-ring might harden and fail. I'm probably worrying too much though.

Based on this concern, I purchased (but have not yet installed) the Trans-Dapt 1024, which has no built-in pressure relief valve and uses a 3/4-16 nipple. The instructions say to remove and discard the factory pressure relief valve and use a Fram PH-8 filter, which I presume contains a pressure release valve. Upon close inspection of the design of the Trans-Dapt 1024, I'm not completely thrilled with that design either.

I have a used version of the other adapter style on-hand, so I'm going to compare them carefully before I decide which one to use.

Joe-----


The Fram PH-8 and AC PF-2 are equivalent oil filters and include an integral pressure relief valve.

[Joe L.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

Thanks Joe for the very useful information. I'm not crazy about using a Ford spec filter, but it's what I have. I bought the kit many many years ago and, I dare say, may have been the only one on the market at the time.

Correct me if I'm wrong, but the Trans-Dapt kit integral PRV is actually the same GM piece that is standard equipment with our engines. It appears to be the same, and is listed by the same part number for use with either the Trans-Dapt kit or as the replacement part for the PRV used with a cartridge filter assembly.

The Trans-Dapt kit is not a big ticket item so I might still get one, use my existing PRV, and still use black Wix filters. I assume they have a replacement for a PF-25.

Thanks again.

Stu Fox

Stu------


Yes, the Wix equivalent of the PF-25 is #51069.

[Joe R.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

I guess I asked for it, so now I'm confused. So, I too will study both kits (I'll buy one of the other (?) kits and compare). Since my major problem during my last oil change was the "square O-Ring", that may be of concern to me. Also, I will look into filter availability. WOW!, there is more to this than I figured.

Thanks everyone for your contributions.

Stu Fox

Hi Stuart:

I'm about to leave on a one-week business trip, but if you can wait until I get back, I would be happy to post photos of both types of adapters, since I have samples of each.

Right now I'm not sure which version I like better (but probably both versions are just fine).

[Duke W.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

Speaking of oil (and air) filters, the following thread is worth reviewing:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...baldwin+filter

Duke

[Stuart F.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

I finally broke open the "Cal Custom" package to look at the parts included (I bought it at least 20 years ago). The first piece bolts in place of the original PRV, then the threaded nipple is added, followed by the plate adapter which is held to the threaded nipple with what looks like a large pal nut. The adapter uses a large O-Ring seal on it's outer diameter (replacing the original O-Ring seal used with a cannister). The cross section of this replacement is twice as big as an original, leaving one to think it is robust enough to last a long time. Then a spin-on filter is applied to the threaded nipple until is tightly sealed to the adapter.

Stu Fox

[Joe R.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

I finally broke open the "Cal Custom" package to look at the parts included (I bought it at least 20 years ago). The first piece bolts in place of the original PRV, then the threaded nipple is added, followed by the plate adapter which is held to the threaded nipple with what looks like a large pal nut. The adapter uses a large O-Ring seal on it's outer diameter (replacing the original O-Ring seal used with a cannister). The cross section of this replacement is twice as big as an original, leaving one to think it is robust enough to last a long time. Then a spin-on filter is applied to the threaded nipple until is tightly sealed to the adapter.

Stu Fox

Hi Stuart:

I think the differences between the two types of adapter have been pretty well described by Joe Lucia. I ended up buying one of each type so that I could compare them (Trans-Dapt 1024 and Mr. Gasket 1270). After studying their construction, I think it's pretty much a toss-up regarding which one is better.

Both adapter types rely on a "permanently installed" O-ring and a carefully designed, limited-travel compression method to ensure that the O-ring seals properly. There is some opportunity for these to leak if the installation isn't done just right, and there is some opportunity for the O-ring to eventually harden and start leaking. Overall, the factory arrangement seems more robust (provided that the O-ring is replaced each time the filter is changed).

That being said, I'm going to try using a spin-on adapter and just keep an eye out for leaks. I decided to install the Mr. Gasket version that retains the factory pressure relief valve, but as I said, it's really kind of a toss-up regarding which style to use.

My interest in converting to a spin-on filter is to make oil changes less messy so that I don't procrastinate about doing them. I have noticed that the prospect of dealing with the factory cannister, and all the attendant mess and cleanup, makes me less likely to do an oil change when it's due. I'm hoping that a spin-on filter will make it more likely that I do my oil changes on schedule.

[Joe L.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

Hi Stuart:

I think the differences between the two types of adapter have been pretty well described by Joe Lucia. I ended up buying one of each type so that I could compare them (Trans-Dapt 1024 and Mr. Gasket 1270). After studying their construction, I think it's pretty much a toss-up regarding which one is better.

Both adapter types rely on a "permanently installed" O-ring and a carefully designed, limited-travel compression method to ensure that the O-ring seals properly. There is some opportunity for these to leak if the installation isn't done just right, and there is some opportunity for the O-ring to eventually harden and start leaking. Overall, the factory arrangement seems more robust (provided that the O-ring is replaced each time the filter is changed).

That being said, I'm going to try using a spin-on adapter and just keep an eye out for leaks. I decided to install the Mr. Gasket version that retains the factory pressure relief valve, but as I said, it's really kind of a toss-up regarding which style to use.

My interest in converting to a spin-on filter is to make oil changes less messy so that I don't procrastinate about doing them. I have noticed that the prospect of dealing with the factory cannister, and all the attendant mess and cleanup, makes me less likely to do an oil change when it's due. I'm hoping that a spin-on filter will make it more likely that I do my oil changes on schedule.

Joe-------


...and you could always easily convert back to the canister style at any time.

[Frank D.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

My '61 solid lifter 270hp 283ci with hi-volume oil pump has had the Mr. Gasket #1270 on it for 7 years now (instructions attached) - no issues. My canister blew an O ring going down the road one day and spewed 4-1/2 qts of oil all over the road. Only quick action saved the motor! The Mr. Gasket adapter uses a bypass "plate". I used red Lok Tite on all threaded adapter screws...the two long screws and the large center screw in oil filter mounting fixture.

I put the spin on adapter on the car working in the pit of a nearby Jiffy Lube and it took all of 20 minutes (mostly because I was borrowing the tech's tools). Haven't touched it since. My car runs at cruise with the 60# oil pressure gauge pegged and idles with it at 35#. You can use the NAPA 1060 Gold oil filter (its black not gold) and peel the label off and it almost looks like the canister; or; you can use the NAPA 1794 filter to run 2 qts for extra oil capacity. It's a truck filter and hangs down pretty low but never caused me a problem.

You can see this filter in the picture during my Tremec conversion. IIRC Napa just rebrands the WIC filters. My '63 came with the same adapter already installed....

[Stuart F.]

Re: Spin On Oil Filter Conversion Kits

Mornin Frank;

I'm impressed with your putting a Tremec into your 61. What axle ratio are you running? I had on occasion given the same thought to doing that to my 63, but I'm not going places too far with it to make it worth while.

Of course you know you'll take some flack about the high pressure oil pump, that's why I don't cop to the same set up with my 63. But I do have the higher pressure gauge, and ever since my pump was changed I have had a slight leak from the back of the gauge. I tried everything to stop it, but it still sends a drop onto my E-Brake handle after a short highway trip. I have a spare gauge that I got back in the 70's, but don't like the thought of pulling the cluster again.

Wanted to mention; you did the right thing to have someone rebuild your tach drive distributor (think you said for $150. Bucks). I have spent twice that already trying to do my own - mostly on tools. I just put it back in yesterday, but have yet to time it. I eventually only used the cross shaft set screw and a new main shaft drive gear that I had for some time. I'm sending back the new shaft, shaft bushings as well as the new cross shaft and coupling. None of these parts were needed, and their quality is not good. Also, don't let ANYONE try to tell you that you can simply modify your distributor to include a cross shaft thrust button, be it bronze or nylon (plastic). It cannot go done without help from a machine shop. I Drilled and tapped the hole all right, but none of the buttons can be put in without milling the inside so the button is below the surface. I ended up using the steel set screw as the stop for the original steel cross gear. These parts vendors are selling a bunch of unusable junk!

Stu Fox