Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance - NCRS Discussion Boards

Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

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  • Eddie H.
    Infrequent User
    • January 1, 1991
    • 15

    Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

    The problem that initiated this carburator modification was a poor and inconsistant idle on a 1967 L-71 engine caused by the ported vacuum advance system that was used on the three years that the Tri-Power carburator setup was available. See this posting for more details on the original idle problems: https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...847#post714847

    This idle problem could be fixed by converting the distributor vacuum advance from ported vacuum to direct manifold vacuum. Several posts on the TDB have been posted discussing doing this conversion from ported to manifold vacuum. They all center on switching the distributor VAC from what was installed at the factory to a new VAC that pulls in full vacuum advance on the distributor at about 2" of vacuum below the idle vacuum. For this engine a "B-26" VAC that pulls in full advance at 12" HG was chosen and installed on the distributor. Now all that's needed is to connect the "B-26" to direct manifold vacuum.

    Three ways to do this have been suggested on the TDB. One is to install a "tee" in the vacuum hose that runs to the choke pull-off on the center carb and connect a vacuum hose from there to the "B-26" VAC. Another way was to install a vacuum fitting in the intake manifold that has one more port than what was already there if one was installed such as for power brakes. The third one mentioned in the TDB was to modify the carb to provide manifold vacuum instead of ported vacuum to the base of the center carb where the vacuum advance hose to the distributor is normally attached so the engine still looks stock. This third solution involved drilling a small hole in the throat of the carb below the throttle plates and plugging the existing hole just above the throttle plates with a smear of epoxy.

    Another way to provide manifold vacuum to the original ported vacuum outlet at the base of the carb is discussed below. This way is simple, looks stock, and is reversable without carb disassembly if reversal is desired at any time. This method requires a 6-32 threaded allen head set screw that is 3/16" long and can be bought at any Home Depot store. The one used in this modification was made of stainless steel so any long term corrosion with the carb base is minimized. This set screw takes a 1/16" allen wrench to install.

    The existing hole in the carb base for the ported vacuum will be tapped for the 6-32 threaded set screw and then the set screw is installed to the bottom of the new threads as depicted in the pictures. This hole is .120" in diameter (equivalent to a #31 drill bit) as opposed to the recommended hole size for tapping 6-32 threads which is a #36 drill bit (.1065" diameter) but there's virtually no load on this set screw and it works perfectly.

    A new hole using a #31 drill bit or a 7/64" drill bit if you don't have a numbered drill bit set, is then drilled from the inside end of the old ported vacuum channel in the base of the carb into the manifold vacuum channel where the choke pull-off receives it's manifold vacuum. This new hole is also tapped for a 6-32 thread so at any time the 6-32 set screw can be taken out of the old ported vacuum hole and placed in the new hole to completely reverse this modification if a return to ported vacuum advance is desired. But, once you go to manifold vacuum advance, you'll never want go back. If the four pictures that were uploaded for this post came through, it should be very evident how to make this modification to the center carb base plate. Hope this post helps someone with their idle problem. If the pictures didn't come through then let me know and I'll email them to yopu. my email address is edhampshire@bellsouth.net.
  • Stuart F.
    Expired
    • August 31, 1996
    • 4676

    #2
    Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

    Eddie;

    I seem to have missed getting your pictures (on my iPad).

    Interested in your mod though, as my son has a 69 L-89 on which I recently rebuilt the carbs. I was looking at doing the same change to manifold vacuum, but I want to be sure my son wants to keep the car for awhile.

    Stu Fox

    Comment

    • Timothy B.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • April 30, 1983
      • 5186

      #3
      Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

      Originally posted by Eddie Hampshire (18507)
      The problem that initiated this carburator modification was a poor and inconsistant idle on a 1967 L-71 engine caused by the ported vacuum advance system that was used on the three years that the Tri-Power carburator setup was available. See this posting for more details on the original idle problems: https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...847#post714847

      This idle problem could be fixed by converting the distributor vacuum advance from ported vacuum to direct manifold vacuum. Several posts on the TDB have been posted discussing doing this conversion from ported to manifold vacuum. They all center on switching the distributor VAC from what was installed at the factory to a new VAC that pulls in full vacuum advance on the distributor at about 2" of vacuum below the idle vacuum. For this engine a "B-26" VAC that pulls in full advance at 12" HG was chosen and installed on the distributor. Now all that's needed is to connect the "B-26" to direct manifold vacuum.

      Three ways to do this have been suggested on the TDB. One is to install a "tee" in the vacuum hose that runs to the choke pull-off on the center carb and connect a vacuum hose from there to the "B-26" VAC. Another way was to install a vacuum fitting in the intake manifold that has one more port than what was already there if one was installed such as for power brakes. The third one mentioned in the TDB was to modify the carb to provide manifold vacuum instead of ported vacuum to the base of the center carb where the vacuum advance hose to the distributor is normally attached so the engine still looks stock. This third solution involved drilling a small hole in the throat of the carb below the throttle plates and plugging the existing hole just above the throttle plates with a smear of epoxy.

      Another way to provide manifold vacuum to the original ported vacuum outlet at the base of the carb is discussed below. This way is simple, looks stock, and is reversable without carb disassembly if reversal is desired at any time. This method requires a 6-32 threaded allen head set screw that is 3/16" long and can be bought at any Home Depot store. The one used in this modification was made of stainless steel so any long term corrosion with the carb base is minimized. This set screw takes a 1/16" allen wrench to install.

      The existing hole in the carb base for the ported vacuum will be tapped for the 6-32 threaded set screw and then the set screw is installed to the bottom of the new threads as depicted in the pictures. This hole is .120" in diameter (equivalent to a #31 drill bit) as opposed to the recommended hole size for tapping 6-32 threads which is a #36 drill bit (.1065" diameter) but there's virtually no load on this set screw and it works perfectly.

      A new hole using a #31 drill bit or a 7/64" drill bit if you don't have a numbered drill bit set, is then drilled from the inside end of the old ported vacuum channel in the base of the carb into the manifold vacuum channel where the choke pull-off receives it's manifold vacuum. This new hole is also tapped for a 6-32 thread so at any time the 6-32 set screw can be taken out of the old ported vacuum hole and placed in the new hole to completely reverse this modification if a return to ported vacuum advance is desired. But, once you go to manifold vacuum advance, you'll never want go back. If the four pictures that were uploaded for this post came through, it should be very evident how to make this modification to the center carb base plate. Hope this post helps someone with their idle problem. If the pictures didn't come through then let me know and I'll email them to yopu. my email address is edhampshire@bellsouth.net.



      Very good idea, try to post some pics for everyone to see..

      Comment

      • Eddie H.
        Infrequent User
        • January 1, 1991
        • 15

        #4
        Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

        Center carb base showing ported vacuum hole.jpgTapping hole for ported vacuum with 6-32 tap.jpginstalling 6-32 set screw in ported vacuum hole.jpgHole drilled and tapped from ported vavuum channel into manifold vacuum channel.jpg

        Comment

        • Eddie H.
          Infrequent User
          • January 1, 1991
          • 15

          #5
          Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

          I'm not very proficient at using the TDB yet so I didn't get the words with the pictures.

          The 1st picture shows where the ported vacuum hole is positioned in the carb base.
          The 2nd picture shows tapping the ported vacuum hole with a 6-32 tap.
          The 3rd picture shows installing the 6-32 set screw with a 1/16th inch Allen wrench.
          The 4th picture shows the position of the drilled and tapped hole between the old ported vacuum passage channel and the chock pull-off manifold vacuum passage channel.

          Comment

          • Stuart F.
            Expired
            • August 31, 1996
            • 4676

            #6
            Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

            Eddie;

            Ya dun good! Pictures look fine and very illustrative. For now, I'm just using the "T" in the choke pull off line (with a cap) while doing the final tuning. Once done, we'll probably use it for the VAC if my son keeps it for awhile. He's in his side business to sell cars, and often falls in love with them before he sells them.

            Thanks for posting the pictures and your write up.

            Stu Fox

            Comment

            • Timothy B.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • April 30, 1983
              • 5186

              #7
              Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

              Very nice Eddie, make sure you use a touch of blue loctite when installing those set screws.

              Comment

              • Eddie H.
                Infrequent User
                • January 1, 1991
                • 15

                #8
                Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

                I thought about that when I installed the set screw but the distance the set screw could back out before hitting the carb base gasket when installed on the manifold is too short for the set screw to actually come out. It might obstruct part of the vacuum path if it did back out but it should still function okay for the VAC. I didn't want the set screw too hard to remove from the ported vacuum hole if I wanted to reverse the modification. When the set screw is bottomed out in the new threads in the ported vacuum hole it's pretty tight and solid in the hole. If the set screw were to be removed from the ported vacuum hole and installed in the new drilled and tapped hole, then blue loctite would certainly be appropriate. This was a very good point to bring up for others to also consider if they do this modification. Thanks. Ed

                Comment

                • Timothy B.
                  Extremely Frequent Poster
                  • April 30, 1983
                  • 5186

                  #9
                  Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

                  Yes, and the blue loctite will allow the screw to be removed with the allen wrench.

                  Comment

                  • Duke W.
                    Beyond Control Poster
                    • January 1, 1993
                    • 15667

                    #10
                    Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

                    Yeah, that's a slick way to do it. I, too, was going to suggest a dab of blue Loctite, but I can see how even if the set screws back out, they won't get sucked into the engine, but like Tim said, blue Loctite is just insurance, and the set screws will come out. Don't use red Loctite!!!

                    Pictures are worth a thousand words in this situation. I know of a guy who is handy in the shop who found a piece of lead shot that was just the right size to plug the ported vacuum advance hole and then he drilled the hole as you did. It's not as easily reversible, but as was said, once you go full time, you'll never want to go back to ported.

                    The K-19 engines needed the ported vacuum advance to increase EGT at idle, and all I can figure is that GM didn't want to have another carburetor for a low volume production engine, so they just threw the California carb on the 49-state engines that didn't need emission control in '67. Shame on them, but the fix is pretty easy.

                    Duke

                    Comment

                    • Robert M.
                      Frequent User
                      • January 1, 1992
                      • 78

                      #11
                      Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

                      Couple of questions, I have a 1968 L-71 with the pollution system on it can I convert to full time manifold vacuum? And looking at The pictures in the post would you need to block the ported vacuum since the modification is done internally.
                      Bob

                      Comment

                      • Timothy B.
                        Extremely Frequent Poster
                        • April 30, 1983
                        • 5186

                        #12
                        Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

                        Robert,

                        If I understood your question right then yes, you need to block the ported vacuum because it will act like a vacuum leak if it's left open.

                        Comment

                        • Robert M.
                          Frequent User
                          • January 1, 1992
                          • 78

                          #13
                          Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

                          Tim, Thanks for the response because I have the pollution control on my car will converting to full time vacuum have adverse effects?
                          Bob

                          Comment

                          • Timothy B.
                            Extremely Frequent Poster
                            • April 30, 1983
                            • 5186

                            #14
                            Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

                            Robert,

                            I don't think so but I'm not 100% sure, lets see what others say.

                            Comment

                            • Jim T.
                              Expired
                              • March 1, 1993
                              • 5351

                              #15
                              Re: Converting Tri-Power center carb for manifold vacuum advance

                              Originally posted by Robert Moon (20478)
                              Tim, Thanks for the response because I have the pollution control on my car will converting to full time vacuum have adverse effects?
                              Bob
                              When I converted my 1970 new Corvette to full time vacuum in 1970 I got better gas mileage in city driving and the engine temp in Dallas city traffic was lower. Full time vacuum now for 44 years.

                              Comment

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