Lifters not pumping up on new rebuild

[Mark J.]

I assembled my motor about 18 months ago and it has set dormant since then. Today, I hooked up the battery, primed the oil pump, reinserted the distributor, removed the spark plugs, inserted oil in the cylinders and valve springs and turned the key. Yes, it turned over nicely and showed oil pressure on the gauge.

Here is the problem and maybe you can help: I am only getting oil through one push rod up to the rocker. No other rockers are showing oil pressure. The push rods are clear.

My first hunch is that the lifters have not pumped up. However, I have been using the starter to turn the motor over, off and on, for the last hour. No success yet.

Any ideas?

MRJ

[David B.]

Re: Lifters not pumping up on new rebuild

Mark,
Get an oil pump priming tool that fits in the distributor hole. Use at least a 1/2" electric drill to run it. Keep priming until you see oil at nearly all the rocker arms. For the remaining ones, turn the engine about 1/2 turn and do again. Eventually, everything should be wet. Use the standard procedures to reset the distributor to its correct orientation.
Don't turn the engine any more with the starter until you have done this. It lubes the cam bearings, crank bearings, before you start spinning the engine with the starter.
It should lube up fine.
Dave

[John D.]

Re: Lifters not pumping up on new rebuild

Mark, See tons of recent posts on proper oil to use. Use Shell Rotella which has zinc. Diesel oil. Other brands such as Pennzoil, Quaker State available also. Very important. Go into the archives or maybe the guys will give you a tip here. On my flat tapped engine (solid lifter) used GM EOS and Shell Rotella 10-30-bought oil from Walmarts in gallon containers. I assume you need it in your hydraulic engine also but not sure. Change oil and filter after about an hours run. John

[Joe L.]

Re: Lifters not pumping up on new rebuild

David and Mark-----

I agree. And, use only the type of priming tool that mimics the configuration of the distributor at the bottom. In other words, one that has the "enclosed groove" at the bottom. Some of the older or cheaper priming tools do not have this.

You can actually create a tool from an old distributor, especially an old aluminum housing type; all you need is the housing and mainshaft (don't cobble up a Corvette tach drive cast iron distributor for this purpose).

[Mark J.]

I'm beginning to see success.

Dave, Joe, John,

Thank you for the recommendations. I had already rented the latest primiing tool to lube the pump, so I discontinued cranking the starter and focused on using the drill procedure suggested by Dave. After loosening the rocker nuts and drilling away, I am now getting an oozing flow from all rocker ports. I think I will continue this procedure to see if the flow increases before making any initial starting adjustments.

Mark

[David M.]

Re: I'm beginning to see success.

You didn't mention whether or not the engine has had its initial run in yet,IE; 1500-2000 rpms varied between these rpms for 20-30 min to break-in the cam & lifters. Dont forget to do that before you take her out.

[David B.]

Re: Lifters not pumping up on new rebuild

Joe,
You made a real good point about the priming tool and it reminded me to mention something. I also use a cut down distributor for priming as you suggested. The reason is that it helps restrict an oil flow passage in the mid-block area near the cam, allowing the pressure to build suffiently to force it up to the rockers. I had a commercial priming tool prior and it did not do so and it created a tough time getting the pressure up where it needed to be. As you said, an old distributor that is cut down is the best "tool" for it.
Dave

[John H.]

Re: Lifters not pumping up on new rebuild

As Joe noted, the priming tool must have the "spool" configuration that matches the same arrangement on the distributor housing, or you won't get oil pressure in the lifter galleries, no matter how fast you spin the oil pump. Mine in the photo is made by Tavia - works great.