C3: How can you tell repro parts

[Joe L.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

Terry-----

It amazes me that they can't get the reproduction of this label perfect. With modern copying technology some folks can counterfeit currency. How difficult should the script on this label be to duplicate? The original size shouldn't be too hard to duplicate, either (unless there was more than 1 original size, which is a possibility).

The originals were a "3 part" as you describe. However, that's unimportant for the reproductions as the labels, as delivered on the cars, usually had the top "protective" layer removed. In any event, a car displaying the top layer in place "would not be typical of factory production".

[Joe L.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

Terry-----

It amazes me that they can't get the reproduction of this label perfect. With modern copying technology some folks can counterfeit currency. How difficult should the script on this label be to duplicate? The original size shouldn't be too hard to duplicate, either (unless there was more than 1 original size, which is a possibility).

The originals were a "3 part" as you describe. However, that's unimportant for the reproductions as the labels, as delivered on the cars, usually had the top "protective" layer removed. In any event, a car displaying the top layer in place "would not be typical of factory production".

[Jon S.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

Good point Patrick. To be fair, they may have verbally explained what the difference was at the time. The problem was that this was almost 4 years ago now, and I have trouble remembering what I had for breakfast this morning. :-)

[Jon S.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

Good point Patrick. To be fair, they may have verbally explained what the difference was at the time. The problem was that this was almost 4 years ago now, and I have trouble remembering what I had for breakfast this morning. :-)

[Brian M.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

When judging an original label you can feel the paint line. Repro's seem to be applied over paint.

[Brian M.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

When judging an original label you can feel the paint line. Repro's seem to be applied over paint.

[Terry M.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

Joe,
I think the problem with label (all of them) fonts is that modern equipment uses a computer to place the wording. The old equipment was a mechanical typewriter style with a constant spacing for each letter. The computerized equipment uses a different spacing for each letter. The end result is different length for the blocks of lettering. I know we think of photographing an original and duplicating it, but most folks would have a hard time finding an original that is crisp enough for a good photographic likeness. I agree, however, it shouldn't be rocket science to make a label in the correct overall size. If the size is a non-standard one, however, the supplier might think the cost of a special run of backing material exceeds what the market will bear, and might necessitate purchase of a wearhouse full of lable blanks. It may simply be a matter of marketing economics, and we are our own worst enemy in that we continue to buy the poor quality reproduction because it is the only game in town. I also know judges who could not recognize the original part because they have never seen one. Not to denigrate their skills, just stating how long the faulty reproductions have been available.

[Terry M.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

Joe,
I think the problem with label (all of them) fonts is that modern equipment uses a computer to place the wording. The old equipment was a mechanical typewriter style with a constant spacing for each letter. The computerized equipment uses a different spacing for each letter. The end result is different length for the blocks of lettering. I know we think of photographing an original and duplicating it, but most folks would have a hard time finding an original that is crisp enough for a good photographic likeness. I agree, however, it shouldn't be rocket science to make a label in the correct overall size. If the size is a non-standard one, however, the supplier might think the cost of a special run of backing material exceeds what the market will bear, and might necessitate purchase of a wearhouse full of lable blanks. It may simply be a matter of marketing economics, and we are our own worst enemy in that we continue to buy the poor quality reproduction because it is the only game in town. I also know judges who could not recognize the original part because they have never seen one. Not to denigrate their skills, just stating how long the faulty reproductions have been available.

[Patrick H.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

It IS possible to make labels without kerning (i.e. the different spacing for each letter) and also to adjust the letter placement as necessary.

Somehow, I know this.

Patrick

[Patrick H.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

It IS possible to make labels without kerning (i.e. the different spacing for each letter) and also to adjust the letter placement as necessary.

Somehow, I know this.

Patrick

[Robert C.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

many years ago I was buying parts for my LT-1 and was amazed to find that vertually ALL repro-parts that you buy are somewhat different than the original. Some manufacturers made the part perfect but then they stamped it with their logo. ie; Paragon choke stoves, for example.

[Robert C.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

many years ago I was buying parts for my LT-1 and was amazed to find that vertually ALL repro-parts that you buy are somewhat different than the original. Some manufacturers made the part perfect but then they stamped it with their logo. ie; Paragon choke stoves, for example.

[Chuck S.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

My experience matches Bob's...the only way to tell a repro part from an original is to HAVE a known original and compare it side-by-side with the repro. When you get where you can find the differences...Wah-lah, you're a judge. There are some good repros and there are some not-so-good repros. Just because it says GM Restoration Parts, don't believe it's going to be identical to the original.

If you have the original part and the finish is poor, then you can buy and compare repros until you find one that works. Unfortunately, most repros are made by only one, maybe two, manufacturers...suppliers are all getting their repros from the same place. When a repro maker tries to copy the first repro on the block, sometimes they find themselves in trouble.

[Chuck S.]

Re: C3: How can you tell repro parts

My experience matches Bob's...the only way to tell a repro part from an original is to HAVE a known original and compare it side-by-side with the repro. When you get where you can find the differences...Wah-lah, you're a judge. There are some good repros and there are some not-so-good repros. Just because it says GM Restoration Parts, don't believe it's going to be identical to the original.

If you have the original part and the finish is poor, then you can buy and compare repros until you find one that works. Unfortunately, most repros are made by only one, maybe two, manufacturers...suppliers are all getting their repros from the same place. When a repro maker tries to copy the first repro on the block, sometimes they find themselves in trouble.

[Robert C.]

Re: New example

I have this thing for correct radiator caps. The repro cap have for a long time had a "tell" that the circular arrow end was open when all originals had the arrow end closed like a little triangle. I juged a 69 last week in Florida that the arrow end on the repro cap was closed! They're learning! But the lettering stamp, letters, thickness of the metal, and chisled edges are still wrong. It's amazing how few original caps are out there. I found two at the swap meet. $3 for both.
My other favorite is the wing nut on the aircleaner. The repro with it's heavy thick casting (nickle thickness) and the original with it's thinner metal(dime thickness)