Has anyone ever connected hoses to the exhaust pipes, run the hoses out side the garage, closed the door to the garage, and started and tuned their C2 or for that matter any other car? Winters in Ky can go for weeks without a good day to take a drive.
winter warm up
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Re: winter warm up
Winter can go on for weeks? Up here in Maine that's the way we describe summer. There have been some years where good weather lasted through a whole weekend before we started to mount snow tires and chains on the old Corvette.
Bill #2659- Top
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Re: winter warm up
If you need to do this to tune your car up it would be OK, but if you are just starting your car to let it warm, this is not so good on the motor. If it's nice enough to get out and actually drive it that's one thing, but most engine people will tell you not to just "warm up" a motor. Some of the more knowlegable people on this board can give you the scientific facts behind this I'm sure. Just my old 2 cents
Terry- Top
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Re: winter warm up
I agree, but I think he is just doing it for a tune up. Even if you disregard the fact that warming up the engine is harmful to the engine you still have to take the time to allow the transmission, differential, shocks and various other components need to be warmed up. The only practical way that I know of to do it is to drive slowly.
My warm up procedure is to start the engine and wait to drive for as long as it takes to hook up the seat belt. I warm up my car by driving it slowly for the first few miles.- Top
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Re: winter warm up
Many studies over the years have shown that typically 80 percent of all engine wear over the life of the average vehicle occurs during cold start and warm up.
Bottom line, don't start it unless you WANT to drive it.
There is absolutely, positively no need to "circulate" the fluids during winter storage if the car is in a garage and there are no signficant episodes of condensing humidity.
Proper winter storage pres - fresh engine oil and brake fluid and coolant that will not expire (time wise) before the end of storage will allow the car to ride out the winter in "suspended antimation".
The battery should be charged monthly, whether it is in the car or removed, or a battery tender should be installed. Also, the tires should be aired to 35 psi or higher if the maximum placarded cold pressure is above 35.
Once you're ready to begin the driving season, simply check the TP and fluid levels. Install a freshly charged battery, and start it up.
For carbureted cars I also recommend extracting the fuel from the fuel bowl with a syringe when you store the car. Then inject and equal amount of fuel when you are ready to start it up. This way the fuel in the bowls will not evaporate and leave behind deposits, and you will not have to crank the engine in the Spring until the fuel pump fills up the bowls. By injecting fuel into the bowls through the bowl vents, you just go through the cold start procedure and the car should fire right up as if it was only driven yesterday.
Duke- Top
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Re: winter warm up
Don't start it unless you're going to drive it for at least ten miles, so the oil gets hot enough to boil off condensates and rich-mixture cold-start blow-by contaminants from the pan; otherwise that stuff just makes the oil more acidic, and the concentration increases every time you "start and run it". No seals will "dry out" during winter storage; just fill it up, change the oil, park it, leave it alone, and take care of the battery until spring. Winter downtime is a good time for coolant and/or brake fluid change/flush every two or three years.- Top
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Re: winter warm up
Bill,
As they say: "Maine has 9 months of winter and 3 months of bad sledding", keep cool.
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Re: I'm afraid you are mistaken Don & Bill
You two have obviously forgotten all about the month of MUD season
Soooo, my math puts it at 2 weeks of spring, 1 month of mud season, 2 weeks of summer (if your lucky), 1 month of fall, and 9 months of winter.
Ayuh... That's about right
From one ex Maine-e-ach to another.
Chuck- Top
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