1960 Door Panels

[Pete P.]

I'm planning to buy new repro door panels for my '60 which has crank windows. I noticed that Corvette America sells the door panels with the cut-out for the power window switch. Al Knoch sells the panels without the switch cut-out. Also, the Assembly Manual mentions to punch a hole in trim panel for the optional power window switch. I realize that the door metal covers the cut-out, but it seems weird that two reputable sellers make the door panels differently. Does anyone know if it matters if the cut-out is there if you don't have power windows?

Thanks.

Pete

[Richard M.]

Re: 1960 Door Panels

Pete, It's not really a issue if the fiberboard backing is cut out or not since you cannot see either area with the metal covering it.

I prefer to cut the metal myself when it comes time for the window crank type. Some panels require a bit of offset from center to mate to the door regulator shaft. I use a large hole punch, the type for electrical box cutting. It gives a nice clean cut without wrinkling the metal.

Word of caution.....When you get ready to install your panels, make sure the overall width of the panel fits into the door opening. The last few AK panels I've installed had to be modified to fit. The rear edge can hit the latch pillar paint if it's too wide, and can also hit hard against the dash end cap area. Test fit with just a few screws at the bottom and sides.

The mod requires removal of the vinyl at the top rear of the panel so that the metal can be bent to reduce the panel's overall width. After bending, re-glue the vinyl.

Rich

1959
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1960
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[Kevin M.]

Re: 1960 Door Panels







A card template and a chassis hole punch worked perfectly for the window crank hole.

[Pete P.]

Re: 1960 Door Panels

Rich and Kevin - Thank you for help!


Pete

[Keith R.]

Re: 1960 Door Panels

I'm having the same problem with the overall width of the panel on my '60 Rich. The rear of the panel impacts the door latch. I have the door panel on the bench and am planning on removing about 3/16" or so on the rearward edge. That's easy to do on the cardboard section but how about the metal reinforcement at the top? Did you just bend it back or did you cut it? Thanks.

Pete, It's not really a issue if the fiberboard backing is cut out or not since you cannot see either area with the metal covering it.

I prefer to cut the metal myself when it comes time for the window crank type. Some panels require a bit of offset from center to mate to the door regulator shaft. I use a large hole punch, the type for electrical box cutting. It gives a nice clean cut without wrinkling the metal.

Word of caution.....When you get ready to install your panels, make sure the overall width of the panel fits into the door opening. The last few AK panels I've installed had to be modified to fit. The rear edge can hit the latch pillar paint if it's too wide, and can also hit hard against the dash end cap area. Test fit with just a few screws at the bottom and sides.

The mod requires removal of the vinyl at the top rear of the panel so that the metal can be bent to reduce the panel's overall width. After bending, re-glue the vinyl.

Rich

1959


1960

[Richard M.]

[Keith R.]

Re: 1960 Door Panels

Thanks Rich. I took a dremel and cut off the wood/fiberboard material that was protruding beyond the edge of the metal reinforcement and then took a body hammer and tapped the metal edge back. A piece of paper stuck between the door pillar and the door can now be slipped away - before it would not. I also had to do a lot of incremental cutting of the rearward edge material with a dremel as well. If you notice, the reproduction panels are pretty much straight along the rearward edge and the rear vertical of the door itself curves in towards the center of the door. My panel was hitting the door latch so I had to cut the trailing edge of the panel repeatedly to get it to fit.