Clutch adjustment

[Dave C.]

Just finished installing a new clutch in my 67, and it works well but for some reason there seems to be too much free play in the pedal, and I have the linkage adjusted to the max, is it possible that there are different length throw out bearings, and mine maybe too short, it looked the same as the one that came out, or maybe there are different length rods that come from the pedal?

[Joe L.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

Just finished installing a new clutch in my 67, and it works well but for some reason there seems to be too much free play in the pedal, and I have the linkage adjusted to the max, is it possible that there are different length throw out bearings, and mine maybe too short, it looked the same as the one that came out, or maybe there are different length rods that come from the pedal?

Dave------


The release bearing should have been 1-1/4" long. If it appeared the same as the one you removed, it's probably the correct one.

If you didn't change the pedal or clutch fork push rods, then I don't see how those could be the problem.

[Dave C.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

Joe, it is 1.25" but the clutch engages very close to the floor, with a good two inches of free play at the top, maybe this is normal , been awhile since I drove my last one.

[Joe L.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

Joe, it is 1.25" but the clutch engages very close to the floor, with a good two inches of free play at the top, maybe this is normal , been awhile since I drove my last one.

Dave------


What clutch did you use and did you have the flywheel surfaced?

[Dave C.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

I used a centerforce clutch , and installed a brand new flywheel.

[Bob R.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

The thickness of the flywheel can change the pedal height. I would check the thickness of the original and compare to the replacement.

[Ralph B.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

Dave is the TOB arm (as it exists the bell-housing) reasonably centered within the opening, or does it appear to crowding one side or the other? ---- most importantly, does it appear to be angled towards the front edge of the opening (towards the block) ------ you may have to slide the boot back to get a better view?

There are a couple of things you can do to rectify your problems without removing the transmission and dissembling everything.

[Richard M.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

Is your clutch flat fingered, or bent fingered? It should be the bent finger type with the 1 1/4" height TOB.(pictured)


P5130013.jpg P5130012.jpg

It's always possible that a prior owner did something different with the levers, rods, clutch cross shaft(Z-bar), etc, and you're following their pitfalls. The Z-bar used 3 different versions for the 63-67's. Below is a document that I believe John Hinckley wrote describing the differences.

Rich

[Dave C.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

guys, thanks for your imput, the pressure plate does have bent fingers, and i think the ToB is right, drove it about 50 miles today , works fine ,but engagement is about an inch off the floor, and despite the extra spring that someone added from the trans to the TOB arm, the pedal rattles at times

[Richard M.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

Dave,

What you're seeing is definitely wrong......

Did you measure your cross shaft arms using that doc file I attached earlier as a reference? The wrong part may cause incorrect lever positioning.

If you remove the lower clutch inspection cover, you could verify exactly which TOB you have. Also, as mentioned before, you should be able to see if the fork positioned over the ball socket properly.

With that cover off, verify your clutch fork is properly attached to the TOB. If the fork fingers aren't set into the groove properly it could throw off the mechanism, as well as cause improper wear to the bearing.

Also verify your clutch fork is correct for the application. The end that the lever attaches to should have a slight angle, not 90* as is the earlier type for the C1's.

Rich

[Stephen L.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

When checking the arm to TOB here are a couple of photos showing right and wrong assembly.

[Dave C.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

Richard, I didn't, notice that attachment, I will have to check the measurements of the rods, that definitely could be the problem, I know that I have the TOB mounted on the arm properly.

[Dave C.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

Just checked the measurements of the arms , they are all correct, and I think it is the right Z-bar although it looks like someone welded an extra piece on the end, which sets the fork arm down about 3/4'' from stock, which , I don't think would make any difference.

[Ralph E.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

Did you change or move the pivot ball in the bell housing at all? This could cause your problem.
my $.02

[Ralph B.]

Re: Clutch adjustment

Just checked the measurements of the arms , they are all correct, and I think it is the right Z-bar although it looks like someone welded an extra piece on the end, which sets the fork arm down about 3/4'' from stock, which , I don't think would make any difference.

Dave,

If you are referring to the lower end of the Z bar, then this 3/4 " which has been added will INCREASE the travel/movement of the clutch arm which should be in your favor based on what you're experiencing, another-words without that 3/4" extension you most likely would not even be able to release the clutch at all; or at best, would release dead on the floor whereas you have a couple of inches of free play which you are unable to remove due to the lack of adjustment at the top clutch rod. So if you can gain back some adjustment up top via an adjustable lower clutch rod to reduce the excessive free play then you may get the clutch grabbing up higher and comfortably as it should ---------- then hopefully in time the clutch will seat and wear in to the point where you may be able to replace the adjustable lower rod and put a proper (non altered) Z bar back in the car.

Good luck,
Ralph