Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

[Ronald M.]

I find myself in the situation of having to re-attach /re-install the driver's side 'nut anchor' (plate) #3824442 inside of the #3843258 'support-body RR upper pnl' - which is still in the car. I've removed the 'reinforcement support' #3824444 already - thinking that would allow access - wrong!
Its all on UPC 1 - B8 in the '66 AIM.
Any and all advice on what to do / not to do, is much appreciated.
thanks in advance,

[Tracy C.]

Re: Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

Ron,

You will need to remove the deck lid and the hinge assy to get it there and access the cage nut. A recent Restorer article described how to R&R the deck springs.

tc

[Ronald M.]

Re: Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

Thanks Tracy, but that's not the issue. I've already removed the decklid and the springs. I'll try attaching the page from the AIM.

[Tracy C.]

Re: Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

Hmm, that is another matter completely. I thought you were asking about the body mount cage nut. If the threads are just stripped, I would drill , tap and upsize the upper mounting bolts for the hinge assy and leave the anchor in there. I think the only way to get it out would involve cutting the fiberglass on the front or lower side of the hat section.

tc

[Richard M.]

Re: Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

I like Tracy's idea. Are the original threads 5/16" or 3/8"?

Another option would be to use a Helicoil or threaded insert. You could cut a Helicoil to the appropriate thickness of the brace and nutplate.

Rich

[Ronald M.]

Re: Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

Thanks Guys.
The driver's side 'nut anchor' (plate) #3824442 fell loose inside of the #3843258 'support-body RR upper pnl' when I removed the deck lid hinge assembly. It appears that those two factory rivets were inserted, but never peened over.
I believe my only option is to cut a hole into the fiberglass support (3843258) to retrieve the nut plate and then figure out a way to re-secure the nut plate, the reinforcement support (3824444), and keep all of that aligned while I reinstall the two top bolts in the decklid hinge assembly.
Thats what I was hoping to get some 'been there, done that' advice on?

An interesting aside, I've found a date code - ink stamping 'Oct 16' centered on the panel (3843258), well preserved all of these years under the (3824444) reinforcement. My car is a Nov 8 build date.

[Tracy C.]

Re: Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

Bummer.. In that case I would drill a 1/4" hole in the bottom of the fiberglass hat section in the area under where the anchor plate resides and try to reposition in back in place using a magnetized rod or screwdriver tip. If you can get just one rivet hole to line up, snug a 3/16 pop rivet down and move the anchor up to line up the other hole. Then pop rivet that sucker in place. Forget bucking a factory fastner unless you want to open up the fiberglass all the way.

This maybe an exercise in futility, but you can enlarge the hole or cut a slot as you go if it doesn't go well. Don't forget you also have some access to manuver the anchor plate through the bolt holes for the hinge assy.

tc

[Richard M.]

Re: Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

Ahhh, now I see. I thought the nutplate threads were stripped. The rivets likely corroded over time.

A '67 uses one rivet to hold that plate. But similar design. That steel reinforcement is actually also a gutter, for the decklid drains. Pics below of a '67 I had to clean out.

This may help you to grab that nutplate to use Tracy's ide to locate it back in position. In the wheel well, there is a small drain hole for the gutter to drain water. I'd bet those gutters are full of debris, and in the past water has sat in there and the electrolysis effect took over and corroded the aluminum rivets mounted into the steel reinforcement.

Remove the wheel to get better access. Locate the drain hole in the fiberglass. Open up the hole big enough to get a long needle nose or magnetic tool to see if you can move the nutplate back in position. You may have to get aggressive to open the hole wider and wider until you locate it. Use the bolts to hold it in plate to pop rivet back on. You can always repatch the fiberglass with some heavy mat and resin later and coat it with rubberized undercoating.

Rich

Gutter construction. The FG is the gutter, with the attached reinforcement held in place with the rivets of the nutplates and more rivets below.

Left side Right side
P2220003.jpg P2220008.jpg

Drain hole in the wheel well. Open this hole up to get to the nutplate area.
P2220009.jpg

Clean out the gutters and drains with a garden hose and wire hook. There's likely lots of crud in there.
P2220001.jpg

[Harry S.]

Re: Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

An article I published in the Restorer several years ago.

[Richard M.]

Re: Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

Forgot about that one Harry.......Perfect !!!

[Ronald M.]

Re: Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

Yes Harry, your article appears to be exactly what I needed to know. Many thanks.

BTW, what issue of the Restorer did your article appear in?

[Harry S.]

Re: Advice on replacing deck lid hinge's nut plate?

Spring 2006, volume 32 number 4.