C1 horn contact

[Richard S.]

I replaced the steering wheel on my C1 and in the process found that I needed to replace the horn contact because of a broken finger like projection that extends off the back side for the horn contact assembly. I now find that the horn only works when I make a connection between the horn contact brush and a ground source such as the steering shaft. The question is, what makes the connection between the contact brush and the and the ground when the horn button is depressed? My horn no longer works with the new, after market, contact assembly and I cannot see anything that would complete the circuit.

[William C.]

Re: C1 horn contact

There is a spring loaded contact that goes thru an insulated hole in the steering hub. It completes the connection between the switch and the ring under the t/s. That wire runs down the column to the wiring harness.

[Richard M.]

Re: C1 horn contact

Bill, I think his problem is in the reproduction horn contact assembly, as I have had similar problems in the last 3 I've purchased.

Richard,
In the contact assembly, there are three flanges which hold the horn button. These flanges are the contact point switch, 3 of them. When the horn button is pushed, it's actually angling one of those 3 flanges to make contact to the outer ring of the hub, which is the ground source. The 3 flanges are isolated from the hub via insulated plastic rivets. The hub is grounded to chassis via the steering shaft and steering column/gearbox. The wire from the horn relay connects to the outer brass ring of the upper bearing, then makes contact through the sprung brush, which touches the back of the contactor long tab with the small 90* bend at the end, ending up at the 3 flanges of the contactor.

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Open Closed
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I suspect, as I have seen on the repros, that those 3 flanges on the reproduction contactor are a possible fault. The spring steel they use is very stiff and difficult to make contact with the outer portion of the (grounded) hub. The reproduction horn button "thicker" flanges", which snap over the contactor flanges, can also cause a "no connect" condition. When the horn button is installed, the alignment and the tolerances of this contact point can be misaligned. It is also very important the the hub contact area is free of paint and is clean un-rusted bare steel for the assembly to work properly.

Lately I've reverted to restoring original horn contactors versus using the reproductions. Originals work much better. If plastic rivets are missing or broken, reproduction rivets are available at most Corvette suppliers and many auto parts "Help" racks.


Rich