Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

[Peter S.]

I will be re-installing the 350 motor and M20 back into my '69 soon, and want to know if it is possible to re-install via the lift brackets and a leveler? The lift brackets make sense at the factory when they just drop it into place, but are they useful for regular engine pulls? They were not installed when I removed it (I bolted through the intake manifold bolts).

If not, how do others reinstall their motor/transmissions without removing intake bolts and messing up that nice new paint?

[Steven B.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

Peter, I have done a couple of ways; 1. With the factory lift brackets, 2. Using straps under the exhaust manifolds and, 3. Using chains bolted into exhaust manifold holes in heads. All have worked with no problems. I use a leveler in each scenario. Steve

[Peter S.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

Peter, I have done a couple of ways; 1. With the factory lift brackets, 2. Using straps under the exhaust manifolds and, 3. Using chains bolted into exhaust manifold holes in heads. All have worked with no problems. I use a leveler in each scenario. Steve

Thanks for the response Steve. Just from the look of it, it appears the chain on the passenger side lift bracket may hit the firewall, did you not have this issue?

[Steven B.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

Peter, that one I did in '97 and do not remember a problem with my '77 L-82. It is possible if I did have an interference problem I moved that bracket. I have since changed intakes on the car and when I did I removed the brackets. Engine and transmission were pulled and installed as a unit. I have not used aluminum intake carb holes. Steve

[Paul O.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

Peter

You must think on how the factory did this process. They installed the engine in the chassis with no body. Hence no interference issues but with the body on the chassis the rear bracket would have clearance issues.

[Peter S.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

Peter

You must think on how the factory did this process. They installed the engine in the chassis with no body. Hence no interference issues but with the body on the chassis the rear bracket would have clearance issues.

Paul, that is exactly what I am thinking, and it's unfortunate that you're confirming it. Any recommendation on how to reinstall the motor/transmission combo? I would hate to pull an intake bolt after having it nicely torqued and painted.

[Terry M.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

Paul, that is exactly what I am thinking, and it's unfortunate that you're confirming it. Any recommendation on how to reinstall the motor/transmission combo? I would hate to pull an intake bolt after having it nicely torqued and painted.

[Peter S.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

Hi Terry,

When I was referring to the intake manifold bolts, I meant the bolts in the corners that tie into the cylinder heads, not into the carburetor flange.

I had not thought about straps around the exhaust manifolds. I do have clearance issues with the A.I.R. manifold trees (which no fluid could bust them free - CRC freeze off, kroil, ATF+Acetone). This is an M20, and the L46 does have cast iron intake as well.

Peter

[Terry M.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

Hi Terry,

When I was referring to the intake manifold bolts, I meant the bolts in the corners that tie into the cylinder heads, not into the carburetor flange.

I had not thought about straps around the exhaust manifolds. I do have clearance issues with the A.I.R. manifold trees (which no fluid could bust them free - CRC freeze off, kroil, ATF+Acetone). This is an M20, and the L46 does have cast iron intake as well.

Peter

Back in the day my brother and I did a lot of Chevelles using the bolts at the corners or later in the ends of the heads. Worked well. Only dropped one or two.

[Peter S.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

Back in the day my brother and I did a lot of Chevelles using the bolts at the corners or later in the ends of the heads. Worked well. Only dropped one or two.

Then the odds are in my favor!

Thanks Terry.

[Terry M.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

Then the odds are in my favor!

Thanks Terry.

If I had to guess it would have been one or two out of 20 to 30 Chevelles. Magically they all turned into big blocks. Most of the time we were lucky enough that they fell into the engine compartment and only damaged the inner fenders. Bent some things both on the car and engine. One memorable one took out the master cylinder. We didn't have a tilting mechanism back then and used a chain fall for the lifting.

My Dad got really POed at my brother when he used a golf club to attempt to pry a transmission into place on the rear of the engine. It was a real circus. Now days we could make a reality show out of it.

[Paul O.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

Peter

On a small block as Terry stated you can use the threaded holes at the ends of the cylinder head. Be careful when I was helping a friend restore his 1971 he used those as the hoist point. Well the good news was it worked great but the bolts he used were a little long. When the engine was started an oil leak reared its head the bolt at the rear of the head made a small hole in the casting under the valve cover causing the leak. We were able to seal the leak but it was not fun.

[Steven B.]

Re: Engine Installation - Lift Brackets

I lifted a 283 by chains in the end exhaust bolt holes in the heads. I used SS bolts (overkill and a waste of $$$ but only correct diameter I had in tool box) that were longer than I needed. Mistake as they bent. If you use this method, which works pretty well, cover the chains so they do not scratch the valve covers. I am going to do another one soon and am going to install the exhaust manifolds and lift with straps which I like even better and it is easier to remove straps than remove bolts and then install manifolds and bolt locks. Steve