'62 lighter short protection

[William F.]

Just bought the correct '62 cigarette lighter but after reading some older posts about no factory fuse protection, think I should add an inline 20 amp fuse or as Jack Humphrey has suggested, the add on protection to socket itself made by Casco. Where is best place and how to add the fuse to wire to lighter to give best protection from the mentioned possible fraying of insulation on wire from wiper cables? Do I remove the lighter socket to get to wire or add closer to ammeter? If I go with Jack's suggestion, where does this add on go on socket? Have to remove socket? Goes on back or inside of socket? Couldn't really tell from description in older posts? While I'm at it , where would I put a fuse(1 amp adequate?) for wire to clock?
Thanks in advance

[Edward J.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

Bill, my advice is cut the orange wire on back of housing and install a 20 amp in-line fuse. find a place to cut the wire, in place that's is hidden so it can not be seen if your going to have the car judged. If not, just make it easy for yourself.

[Philip P.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

I put in a fuse holder by the fuse box and ran the wire from the lighter to that a little longer but easy to service. You could put a inline in the wire to the clock behind the panel. While you are at it there is no protection from the battery to the ammeter some put in a fuseable link, I used a 35amp circuit breaker in the line to the ammeter. I also have a switch in this line that will cut the power in case of a problem and it also is a theft protection as it is in a "secret" place.
Phil

[Richard M.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

I've been adding a inline 30 amp fuse to the ammeter from the solenoid main bat+, and a 15 amp inline fuse to the lighter. One can go on the clock too. I put mating spade terminals on the lighter fuse leads so it's a direct connection to the harness/lighter, but when removed the original Red harness wire can be plugged right back on the lighter for judging.

yel is the lighter, org is the main

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[William F.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

Richard,
Do both photos show the same fuse-the 30 amp from solenoid to ammeter? Don't get the part about spade terminals for clock fuse- could you please explain or better, submit a photo if possible?
Thanks

[Richard M.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

William,

The other pictures above are hard to see, but there's a black fuse holder with the yellow wiring in between the lighter and the harness, hidden by the harness in both bluury photos, sorry. The white one is the main 30A.

Below is basically what I use. Spade terminals are the blue for the lighter fuseholder. Ring terminals on the main. I use a short 10-32 machine screw and internal tooth lock washers between each surface and a integrated 10-32nut/external tooth LW. Then I use heat shrink tubing, 3 typical, to cover and protect the connection.

Both safety "extension" fuses can be removed without altering the original wiring for judging, etc.

Rich

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[William F.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

Richard,
Thanks very much for the photos and explanation! Neat job.

[William F.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

Richard,
In reviewing some of your older posts on wiring protection, you used an automatic reset40 amp breaker at solenoid. You said you insulated it. What part of the breaker connection did you insulate?-put shrink tubing over part or all or it? Do you prefer adding the fuse to the main feed wire near the ammeter or the breaker at the solenoid?
Thanks, again

[Richard M.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

Richard,
In reviewing some of your older posts on wiring protection, you used an automatic reset40 amp breaker at solenoid. You said you insulated it. What part of the breaker connection did you insulate?-put shrink tubing over part or all or it? Do you prefer adding the fuse to the main feed wire near the ammeter or the breaker at the solenoid?
Thanks, again

Yes I used one of those breakers on my '59 for a while. I can't remember exactly, but I think it was heat shrink tubing and tape, but the heat of the engine was a concern. It worked for some time. I did this when I replaced my original engine harness, but in preparation for judging back in '08 I removed it and left no protection in the circuit. I paid for that dearly while driving the car 100 miles to the Regional then but that's another story. Briefly.....I had a short in my lighter circuit and fried part of my main harness. Lost a few million points.

My old harness was tired, and with that one I spliced in a Fusible Link many years before. Never had a short and a link failure thankfully. I gave it thought, that if I ever had a failure when driving, far from home(I drive the car everywhere/anywhere), I'd have trouble replacing or bypassing it way under there. That's why I installed the breaker.

After judging I never re-installed the breaker. I opted for the 30A fuse under the dash at the ammeter. It's not a perfect solution however, as it's only to prevent a catastrophic high current short, after the ammeter. This is my circuit protection of choice now. It does not protect from the Solenoid +12v to Ammeter Black wire feed inside the engine harness. That's a small trade off IMO.

I've used this method on several C1 restorations with excellent results. Very recently on one car, a '60, it protected the brand new wiring when I accidentally shorted +12v to ground. I dropped a wrench down under the fresh air hose and generator. It landed on the terminals of the +BAT on the voltage regulator, and fell perfectly across to the case(gnd). I heard and saw a spark. I looked down and there was the wrench just resting against the terminals and ground. Power was dead. I grabbed the wrench out of there, and went in the car and sure enough the 30A fuse was blown. It may well have saved the harness and who knows what else. It saved my butt for sure. Replaced the fuse with one from a box of spares I left in the glovebox and all was well.

Rich

[Dan D.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

Hi Rich,

I have been following this thread as this is something I have been wanting to do to my 57 for some time now. I have even bought one of the 40 amp breakers just for this purpose, but have not installed it yet. The fuses for the clock and lighter are a given in my opinion, and I was going to install them something like you have done - no mods to the car, and easily reverted back to factory configuration if so desired.

But I have mixed feelings about a fuse in the ammeter circuit, only because in the event of a nuisance fuse blow - which they sometimes do, then you have lost ignition, lights, everything, and that can be dangerous, especially if it occurs at night. I had that happen once a number of years ago with a piece of junk LUV truck. The lights were fused - no breaker - and the fuse just blew for no apparent reason when I switched on the high beams. It was a dark night, with traffic, and very dark. I struggled to get the car off the road and then find the problem, fix it, and get it back home. Everything worked out okay with this, but it could have been much worse.

But these cars are not driven much anymore, and usually even less at night, and so I see this as a trade off between protecting the car from shorts, and having a complete power failure at night. I am sure this is why these cars have a built in circuit breaker in the light switch. I believe a breaker is a much better solution to this problem than a fuse is. We just have to get it away from the engine heat.

Anyhow, I enjoy your many postings on fixing the problems these old Corvettes have, and have learned a lot form your experiences.

-Dan-

[Stephen R.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

On my 59, I use a 30 amp fuse that lights up when blown. Makes it real easy to find, day or night.

[Eric E.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

I am far from wiring but this is exactly why I read all the posts on the C1s! Thanks!

[Richard M.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

Hi Rich,

I have been following this thread as this is something I have been wanting to do to my 57 for some time now. I have even bought one of the 40 amp breakers just for this purpose, but have not installed it yet. The fuses for the clock and lighter are a given in my opinion, and I was going to install them something like you have done - no mods to the car, and easily reverted back to factory configuration if so desired.

But I have mixed feelings about a fuse in the ammeter circuit, only because in the event of a nuisance fuse blow - which they sometimes do, then you have lost ignition, lights, everything, and that can be dangerous, especially if it occurs at night. I had that happen once a number of years ago with a piece of junk LUV truck. The lights were fused - no breaker - and the fuse just blew for no apparent reason when I switched on the high beams. It was a dark night, with traffic, and very dark. I struggled to get the car off the road and then find the problem, fix it, and get it back home. Everything worked out okay with this, but it could have been much worse.

But these cars are not driven much anymore, and usually even less at night, and so I see this as a trade off between protecting the car from shorts, and having a complete power failure at night. I am sure this is why these cars have a built in circuit breaker in the light switch. I believe a breaker is a much better solution to this problem than a fuse is. We just have to get it away from the engine heat.

Anyhow, I enjoy your many postings on fixing the problems these old Corvettes have, and have learned a lot form your experiences.

-Dan-

Dan I agree with your ideas, as I have thought those scenarios also. But the wiring designs on these old ones are just not safe. Clearly they had the fuse and circuit breaker technology back then, but it may have been a cost issue, or the designers thought because the car was non-conducting fiberglass, that fuses were unnecessary, who knows.

Starting in 1967 there were many Fusible Links added to the Corvette. These are even harder to repair than a fuse of course. Tow truck time.

You could add your circuit breaker at the back of the ammeter area to keep away from engine heat, but loose solenoid feed wire to CB protection. A small trade-off IMO. It might be easier to mount in that area under the dash too with tie-wraps to keep safe. Maybe make a small ring terminal jumper wire to connect. I may consider that change on my '59 as well. Regardless, I feel some level of protection is a good idea.

Rich
p.s. Keep in mind 1958 to 1963 reproduction Headlight Switches have non-spec circuit breakers. Lights will go out in some conditions and flicker like blinkers. I've sent several back and replacements have identical problems. I've given up and started restoring and re-using original switches until the manufacturers fix it. May take a year or two to deplete stock. I'm tempted to file a complaint to the NHTSB. It's quite dangerous.

[Dan D.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

Yea Rich, I think some of the non-protected circuits are for cost control as you say. But I think the lack of protection for the ignition circuit is by design to prevent a sudden loss of engine while driving, kind of like GM is facing now with their ignition switch recall. But we will never know, and it doesn't matter anyhow. We just have to work around it. FYI, I did a Power Point Presentation last fall for our local chapter titled 'C1 WIRING'. In it I addressed all of the circuits in the car that are not protected, the consequences of a short, and possible fixes for them. So this thread fits in well with what I presented.

I am thinking about mounting the CB on the firewall near the 904 Power Glide relay. But I need to evaluate this some more, as it probably does not provide much more protection than mounting it near the ammeter. But anyone with a driver class car, or with original harnesses should consider adding these fuses and CB.

Repro light switches have been an almost constant subject of concern. I thought most of the problems were in 56-57 switches, but like you say, 58-63 also. In 58-63 switches the circuit breaker (only 1 - protects the headlights and front parking lights) is internal and you have to take the switch apart to see it. But being internal, it is much better protected than the older designs and not as prone to the corrosion that the older open breaker switches have.

Corvette Central acknowledged and addressed their switch problems in a thread last fall. They apparently were not testing their switches, which is really stupid. So they may have fixed their problems, a phone call or e-mail to them may clear this up. But like most anything else on these cars, repairing the original part is, if possible, the best remedy.

I have repaired several light switches for members here on the forum (including several 1954 switches). I also measured the breaker trip current on a working 59 switch. The trip point was right around 17 amps, which is in line with the chart in ST12. (6 volt 1954 switches are 30 amps, and can be adjusted by setting the pre-load on the bi-metal strip).

The problem with most of these switches is corrosion in the dimmer rheostat, which I have been able to repair by drilling out the rivets, cleaning everything up and re-assembling with brass or stainless screws.

-Dan-

p.s. For the electrical experiments I have been doing, I have ginned up a pre-wired power supply, current meter, and resistive load box that enables me to easily test these switches at most any current I want. In addition, with this setup I can easily power up a car without using the car battery, and measure the current draw for any of the circuits in the car. All the light circuits, ignition, accessories, everything except starter and horns. Very good for initial power up with new harnesses, restorations, or where possible fuse blowing or shorts have occurred, as total current is limited to 30 amps.

[Terry M.]

Re: '62 lighter short protection

Yea Rich, I think some of the non-protected circuits are for cost control as you say. But I think the lack of protection for the ignition circuit is by design to prevent a sudden loss of engine while driving, kind of like GM is facing now with their ignition switch recall. But we will never know, and it doesn't matter anyhow. We just have to work around it. FYI, I did a Power Point Presentation last fall for our local chapter titled 'C1 WIRING'. In it I addressed all of the circuits in the car that are not protected, the consequences of a short, and possible fixes for them. So this thread fits in well with what I presented.

I am thinking about mounting the CB on the firewall near the 904 Power Glide relay. But I need to evaluate this some more, as it probably does not provide much more protection than mounting it near the ammeter. But anyone with a driver class car, or with original harnesses should consider adding these fuses and CB.

Repro light switches have been an almost constant subject of concern. I thought most of the problems were in 56-57 switches, but like you say, 58-63 also. In 58-63 switches the circuit breaker (only 1 - protects the headlights and front parking lights) is internal and you have to take the switch apart to see it. But being internal, it is much better protected than the older designs and not as prone to the corrosion that the older open breaker switches have.

Corvette Central acknowledged and addressed their switch problems in a thread last fall. They apparently were not testing their switches, which is really stupid. So they may have fixed their problems, a phone call or e-mail to them may clear this up. But like most anything else on these cars, repairing the original part is, if possible, the best remedy.

I have repaired several light switches for members here on the forum (including several 1954 switches). I also measured the breaker trip current on a working 59 switch. The trip point was right around 17 amps, which is in line with the chart in ST12. (6 volt 1954 switches are 30 amps, and can be adjusted by setting the pre-load on the bi-metal strip).

The problem with most of these switches is corrosion in the dimmer rheostat, which I have been able to repair by drilling out the rivets, cleaning everything up and re-assembling with brass or stainless screws.

-Dan-

p.s. For the electrical experiments I have been doing, I have ginned up a pre-wired power supply, current meter, and resistive load box that enables me to easily test these switches at most any current I want. In addition, with this setup I can easily power up a car without using the car battery, and measure the current draw for any of the circuits in the car. All the light circuits, ignition, accessories, everything except starter and horns. Very good for initial power up with new harnesses, restorations, or where possible fuse blowing or shorts have occurred, as total current is limited to 30 amps.

Dan FWIW: I found the same lack of electrical protection in both the ignition and cigar lighter in a 1964 Chevelle driver I had years ago. So Corvettes are not the only GM vehicles built this way. I suspect there are many more than just these two models.