C2 Hood reinforcements

[Paul L.]

Does anyone have any experience with the reinforcing ribs under the hood of C2 vettes?
My hood "flexes" when the car is at highway speeds. There are ribs under the top layer of the hood and appear to have been attached with some adhesive or other attachment. These ribs are no longer attached to the hood skin at locations other than the ends of the ribs. I can see a seperation between the ribs and the skin. Should these ribs be attached to the hood skin? If so, what is suggested to attach them?
Please advise.

[Domenic T.]

Re: C2 Hood reinforcements

Paul,
yes, they need to be attached. I would use epoxy resin rather than poly resin because I believe epoxy is stronger.
You will need to open the gap and clean any grease with something like acetone or laquer thinner, then sand both surfaces before you bond the hood to the frame.
Make sure the hood is not twisted when you bond it with the resin.

DOM

DOM

[Paul L.]

Re: C2 Hood reinforcements

Thanks for the reply. The original attachment looked like some type of adhesive tape simiular to the emblem adhesive tape from 3M. I was contemplating using that until I read your post.
I will go the epoxy route unless I hear some other advice.

[Gerard F.]

Re: C2 Hood reinforcements

Paul,

Before you go the epoxy route take a look at this thread:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthread.php?39368-C2-67-Hood-Gumdrop-Adhesive&highlight=Hood

The polyurethane roof and flashing sealant solved my problem. The black stuff when cured even matched the blackout on the underside of my hood and I didn't even have to paint. And it stays pretty resilient.

I would be beware of using epoxy, too rigid and might reflect through to your outside paint

[Ronald L.]

Re: C2 Hood reinforcements

Not had an issue with 2K epoxy, if the two pieces are not under stress there is nothing to cause it to do anything later on. If you clamp and force it...that is another thing.

[Roger P.]

Re: C2 Hood reinforcements

Paul, The polyurethane roof and flashing sealant solved my problem. The black stuff when cured even matched the blackout on the underside of my hood and I didn't even have to paint. And it stays pretty resilient. I would be beware of using epoxy, too rigid and might reflect through to your outside paint

I agree with Gerry and followed his advice. At the same time, I did a simple restoration of the underside of my hood. Take a look at my thread with photos: https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...154#post594154. Good luck, Roger (50141)

[Randy S.]

Re: C2 Hood reinforcements

Roger,

What paint did you use? Aerosol can? Looks good. Shouldn't the DAP/sealant be painted too as I would assume it was painted at the factory as a unit.

Randy

[Ray G.]

Re: C2 Hood reinforcements

Gentlemen;
No insult intended to previous posts on this thread.
Is John Ballard available on this TDB ?
I believe he told me the C2 Hood skin to reinforcement is "3M structural adhesive". Available in body shop supply stores.
Ray

[Roger P.]

Re: C2 Hood reinforcements

Roger,What paint did you use? Aerosol can? Looks good. Shouldn't the DAP/sealant be painted too as I would assume it was painted at the factory as a unit.Randy

Hi Randy. The finish in the engine bay, including the underside of the hood, was painted "semi-flat" black at the factory. For me, the Rust-oleum "Painter's Touch" Ultra Cover flat black spray paint provides nearly the identical matte finish as my firewall and inner fenders. I have used it before on several projects with excellent results. Two other good products that many members use are Krylon 1613 and SEM Trim Black. I read that the Krylon was the standard and was almost exclusively used by most members until they changed the retail formula. If you go to a local big box or hardware store, you will probably find Kylon 51613 which is more semi-gloss and isn't correct for the engine bay. Some people still carry the original "industrial" 1613 spray cans, but you have to search online to find them. There is a member who advertised in the last Driveline that purchased a large quantity of Krylon 1613 and was selling individual cans. I purchased the Rust-oleum "Painter's Touch" Ultra Cover flat black spray paint at Ace Hardware. It may be worth buying one can and spraying a test area to see how it looks compared to the rest of your engine bay. I think it would be best to make sure the paint you select for the underside of the hood matches the rest of your engine bay. Go back and read my entire thread to see exactly what I did to achieve the final semi-flat black finish: https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthrea...154#post594154. With regard to painting the DAP sealant, the color and finish are nearly an identical match to my paint. Although the manufacturer claims that it can be painted, I thought it would be best to leave it unpainted since those points act as mini shock absorbers which could create a cracking issue over time. I believe the factory used a rigid epoxy or resin, so painting it wasn't an issue because it didn't flex... which is why the DAP product is now being used as a repair adhesive. Have a Happy Easter, Roger (50141)