1962 engine removal

[Larry C.]

Will be pulling the engine from my '62 soon for a complete rebuild. Car is in typical 2-car home garage so will be using an extending boom-type with hydraulic lift operated by hand pump. Seems like I have seen other folks insert a block of wood (2x4 maybe) under each of the top A-frames just behind the spindle upright and the coil spring tower to keep the frame/body from lifting up when the boom hoist takes the weight of the engine. If so, this would allow a lower clearance height for the engine oil pan to clear the radiator support.

Will first either remove the 4 spd or at least unbolt the trans from the bellhousing. Any thoughts or comments before I get started?

Thanks,

Larry

[Christopher R.]

Re: 1962 engine removal

I've done this 3 times on my '62. Each time the car was raised on jackstands enough for me to get under it and unbolt the transmission, shifter, speedometer cable, and exhaust pipes. Each time I removed and installed the engine with the transmission attached - just like it says in the ST-12. But, yes, you could it with the transmission detached. It's just easier when it's attached. The 3 different engine hoist cranes I used were all cheapo ones. But all 3 of them were sufficient to get the engine/transmission assembly over the radiator support - even with the car raised about 18 inches. When the car is on jackstands, it won't move when the boom hoist takes the weight of the engine. Another reason to raise the car is that you need the height to allow the engine/transmission clearance. With the transmission attached to the engine this assembly is long and when it is lowered into the engine bay, it goes in at a steep angle. The car needs to be raised so that there is clearance underneath for the engine/transmission to go in. When I did this, I had to do it outside the garages in the driveways. None of the garage doors were tall enough. I just rolled the car out, and then pushed it back in when I was finished. Check the archives on this procedure. There's more helpful hints.

[Terry D.]

Re: 1962 engine removal

Larry A lot depends on how much work you want to go in preparation to the pull. I've done mine three times, twice with the stock setup and the last time with a crate motor and Tremec 5 speed. Also found out that 8x8 blocks under the wheels was enough height so that I could leave the car in the garage with seven foot ceilings. However, I pulled the motor mounts and the radiator support out, this lets the engine come forward father and cuts down the angle and allows you to not have to the raise the engine as high. Another thing I found helpful was leave the distributor off till the engine is in the car. I agree with Chris that it is easier in the long run to leave the tranny attached. The first time I did this by myself but it is a lot easier and quicker with some help.Terry

[Larry C.]

Re: 1962 engine removal

Thanks to Christopher and Terry for your comments and recommendations.

Christopher - is this the type of hoist/boom you used? If so, when fully extended and raised to the upper limit, it seems that the vertical suspension would not allow room for engine and trans to come up out of the engine bay. Also, where were your jack stands placed in the front to allow room for the open legs to clear under the car?

I also have an engine leveler which seems to be a must in bringing the engine/trans up and out.

I will check the Threads as you suggested.

Larry

[Ed T.]

Re: 1962 engine removal

Hello Larry,

I have had the engine out on my 62 several times now. An engine leveler is worth its weight in gold for this job. I also wrapped a chain around the frame to support the engine-trans assembly so I could remove the transmission rear mount and cross-member. I also removed the distributor to get some extra room and avoid damage.

Good Luck...Ed

[Larry C.]

Re: 1962 engine removal

Sorry, I left the photo of engine hoist out of my last post. For Christopher to comment when he has time.

Thanks again for all useful comments and recommendations.

Larry

[Robert S.]

Re: 1962 engine removal

That is the hoist that I have. Remove the right hand engine mount on the frame so it will not interfere with the fuel pump. Also leave the waterpump pulley and fan off. With the rear on stands, I have enough room to remove and install the engine with the trans and shifter attached. I also remove the fuel unit prior to engine removal. Have fun.

[Christopher R.]

Re: 1962 engine removal

Christopher - is this the type of hoist/boom you used? If so, when fully extended and raised to the upper limit, it seems that the vertical suspension would not allow room for engine and trans to come up out of the engine bay. Also, where were your jack stands placed in the front to allow room for the open legs to clear under the car?

I also have an engine leveler which seems to be a must in bringing the engine/trans up and o

Yes, an engine leveler is a must. Lube the threads so that it moves easily. When you attach it to the engine, make sure it'll go to its ends. You need to put the engine/transmission assembly at a pretty steep angle.

The crane you show looks like ones I've used. Last time I used the cheap Harbor Freight one, and it worked great. It goes plenty high enough to clear the radiator support, even with the car jacked up as high as I had it. If I had to, I could have lowered the car some, and then jacked it back up higher once the engine/transmission was over the radiator support and dangling in the engine bay.

When the car was jacked up, the supports or stands were under the frame. I can't remember if they interfered with the crane legs. But If they did, I would simply have one leg go outside the stand. Yes, that would put the engine/transmission off center a little. But that's correctable once the engine is almost in and on its supports.

I've done this by myself. But Terry's right. It's much better to have a helper. You'll certainly want a helper when you reinstall the hood. Look at the archives for advice on taping the edges to protect the paint and tracing an outline of where the hinges were installed. It's good to know that the car only needs to be raised 8 inches to get everything to clear.

Make sure you put a plug in the back of the transmission. When you tilt the assembly, the fluid will want to run out. There's plugs made for this purpose. Used to find them for $1.00 at swap meets. Or, you can use the driveshaft yoke (if you have it disconnected from the driveshaft awaiting a new U-joint). I suppose a rag could work too, if you're careful enough to stuff it in there good.

Look in the archives for advice on what engine accessories people install or don't before they do this. You definitely don't want the distributor or fan on.

When you reinstall the shifter linkage and speedometer cable, the job is easier if you can lower the back of the transmission to give your self some more room up in the transmission hump. You'll want to be able to control the lowering and raising. I used a scissors jack. But you don't want to jack on your expensive oil pan. John Hinckley has posted on how he easily and cheaply built a "saddle" to go around the pan. The archives also have that.

[Steven B.]

Re: 1962 engine removal

Many good suggestions. I used chains bolted to cylinder heads where exhaust manifolds would be attached. Not now, though. Chains, even wrapped with pads, have scratched valve covers, etc. Now I used heavy cloth straps around the installed manifolds. No scraping now. Steve

[Philip P.]

Re: 1962 engine removal

When I installed my engine a couple of years ago I did it without the transmission attached my reason was that the engine when in straight down and was less likely to hit the firewall etc. I did align the transmission prior to the install making sure everything was correct. The car was on jack stands and I do have access to a transmission jack so that was not hard. Like some one pointed out the right mount needs to be removed for fuel pump to clear.
Phil