C2 (64) Fuel Filler Door Rebuild

[Larry M.]

I've been reading posts and don't see much out there on this. I'm aware that Richard Fortier has a process and may do this but just wondered if anyone has a different process to attach the metal backing plate to the cast ring, possibly something I can do myself. I bought a 66 door with pretty nice chrome but can't use the backing plate. I'm in the process of acquiring an early 65 door which has a flat plate. I'll buy a new emblem. Then on to reassembly with no re-plating to get a survivor look on the metal pieces.

P.S. Currently have a Trim Parts repro so nothing is right.

[Donald H.]

Re: C2 (64) Fuel Filler Door Rebuild

I've been playing with restoring a 66 fuel door. Here's a picture of my first attempt. I cut off the rivets that were molded with the outer ring when it was manufactured, then drilled a 1/8" hole and used JB Weld to glue 1/8" tubular rivets in place of the molded rivets. These rivets are zinc steel and not the pot metal as with the original molding, but I did end up with rolled rivets as you can see in the picture.

Don

[Larry M.]

Re: C2 (64) Fuel Filler Door Rebuild

As a first attempt it appears you nailed it. I assume you used a drill press for drilling - right? But I'm wondering about the process you used to roll the rivets - can you tell me about this? Thanks a lot for the picture.

[Donald H.]

Re: C2 (64) Fuel Filler Door Rebuild

Yes I used a drill press. I first cut the molded rivet down and flush with the lower lip of the rim. Then center punched and drilled with 1/8" as far as I could. The rivets (picture) are from Hanson Rivet company but I bought them from Grainger. Hanson requires a larger quantity order, but Grainger sells them also. The tool I used is also pictured. It a pretty handy tool. I've used it a couple of times, most recently replacing the brackets on my grille. The tool comes with a good set of clinch dies, but they are to large for the smaller rivet. I ordered a smaller clinch die (also pictured) from Hanson rivets and "modified" it with some masking tape to fit and work in the MMI rivet setting tool.

I also have a Copy Cad plating kit from Caswell that I used to plate the back. The back on this one was in terrible condition with very heavy pitting, it took me a long time of sanding to get most of the pitting out. But this was just an attempt to see if I could somewhat replicate the rivets.

I have spent way more that the whole process is worth, but wanted to see if I could do it.

By the way, how does the Trim Parts reproduction differ from a GM original produced door?

Don

[Larry M.]

Re: C2 (64) Fuel Filler Door Rebuild

Don - you are very helpful. thanks. a couple of more questions
1. Would you be willing to do this for someone else?
2. Since you drilled 1/8 and used 1/8 rivets did you grind the heads off?
3. What is your assessment of how the JB Weld will hold - on the car you have the weight of the plate beating down as you drive?
4. Did you consider gluing the plate down also so that the rivets are just for show or to help the rivets?

[Donald H.]

Re: C2 (64) Fuel Filler Door Rebuild

1. Would you be willing to do this for someone else? Not really! Takes way to much time.

2. Since you drilled 1/8 and used 1/8 rivets did you grind the heads off? Yes, I used a dremel with the small metal cut-off wheel to cut the heads off.

3. What is your assessment of how the JB Weld will hold - on the car you have the weight of the plate beating down as you drive? It all seems pretty solid, but I would be careful about slamming the fuel door. I think it would hold find under driving conditions.

4. Did you consider gluing the plate down also so that the rivets are just for show or to help the rivets? Yes, and if I decided to do one for real, then I would probably throw in some epoxy to hold everything together.

[Donald H.]

Re: C2 (64) Fuel Filler Door Rebuild

A question back at you,

How does the Trim Part door differ from an original? I'm going to start restoration of my 66 coupe and will try to decide which will judge best. A Trim Parts reproduction or one that I restore?

Thanks,

Don Harris

[Larry M.]

Re: C2 (64) Fuel Filler Door Rebuild

1. Late 63 thru 67 had the numbers 38144041 (which is too many digits for a GM part number) and 3081-H, all on one line. TPs have CMD and a dot on one line and 3814404 on a second line (probably the correct GM part number)
2. Where the latch housing/bracket is spot welded to the backing plate the originals had a locating dimple on either side plus the four spot welds. You can see these dimples clearly in the pic you posted. TP does not have this.
3. TP has the bump in the middle of the backing plate (possibly to hold pressure on the emblem) as your pics shows. This is correct for 66/67 and likely late 65 but for late 63, 64 and early 65, maybe all 65 the plate was flat.

I learned all this from someone else but I believe it to be correct. As for the 65s, I see then with and without the bump on ebay which makes me think there was a midyear change.

[Larry M.]

Re: C2 (64) Fuel Filler Door Rebuild

I didn't answer your question. The one you restored or will restore should be much better for judging, but I'm no expert.