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Battery amp meter/new battery

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  • Ethan M.
    Expired
    • December 3, 2013
    • 27

    Battery amp meter/new battery

    I recently replaced my battery in my 59 (that was fun) because the old one died. Now the amp meter moves every time I step on the gas (it never did before) and when I put on the head lights they get brighter when I accelerate. Any help?

    thank you
  • Domenic T.
    Expired
    • January 28, 2010
    • 2452

    #2
    Re: Battery amp meter/new battery

    Ethan,
    Welcome to the generator, That seems to be normal with a generator and that's why the altinator works better as far as generating at low RPM's.
    You might check your sugested idle RPM, most were around 750/800 (manual) or might be different with a HP engine. I also remember that the Delco regulator addjusted with a screw, but that was for max voltage.

    DOM

    Comment

    • Duke W.
      Beyond Control Poster
      • December 31, 1992
      • 15609

      #3
      Re: Battery amp meter/new battery

      New batteries whether wet or dry should be charged before they see cranking load. Wet batteries start life when the electrolyte is added at the plant, but they may not be placed in service for 30-120 days, during which they discharge at about one percent per day. Batteries have date codes, so buy the freshest one you can find.

      Dry batteries start life when electrolyte is added by you or the retailer, but they should still be charged prior to use.

      Try charging the battery with an external charger until a full charge is indicated. Beyond that generators won't provide as much energy at idle as an alternator at idle, so the generator may not be able to handle full system load without a voltage drop.

      You should also check system voltage at idle and higher RPM. If it's not between 13.5 and 14.5 volts with everything at normal operating temperature, the regulator may need adjustment.

      Duke

      Comment

      • Ralph T.
        Expired
        • August 31, 1999
        • 19

        #4
        Re: Battery amp meter/new battery

        In my 61 the fuel gauge moves every time I step on the brakes and after 18yrs I have still been unable to find why. In talking to other C1 owners over the years its par for the course for minor electrical problems to rear their ugly heads and have to be accepted. I think the others may be correct on the battery issue as I had the same thing happen to me and a good long charge and a good cleaning of cables and grounds solved the problem. Just change my amp gauge but I do not trust it so I hooked up a cheap volt meter under the hood and that lets me know all is working well (12 bucks at Pep boys) Although its a pain sometimes I added a battery cut off switch years ago not only for security reasons but you may have something drawing down the voltage in your battery. Doing this my last battery lasted over eight years. Good luck

        Comment

        • Bruce B.
          Extremely Frequent Poster
          • May 31, 1996
          • 2930

          #5
          Re: Battery amp meter/new battery

          If your fuel gauge moves when you set on the brakes you need a better ground to the sending unit at the gas tank.
          This is a very common electrical anomaly in most C1 Corvettes

          Comment

          • Ralph T.
            Expired
            • August 31, 1999
            • 19

            #6
            Re: Battery amp meter/new battery

            I just cleaned the ground and it was the same so I will run an additional ground and see if that cures this long nagging problem, thanks for the info. Aloha Ralph

            Comment

            • Dan D.
              Extremely Frequent Poster
              • November 4, 2008
              • 1323

              #7
              Re: Battery amp meter/new battery

              Ralph, the rear harness ground is effected by a sheet metal screw located on the top of the driver side rear frame frame extension rail. This is the ground for the gas tank, both tail lights, and license plate lights. It is easily accessible from the trunk, and this is what causes most of the ground issues in these cars.

              What I do, is I remove the screw, sand the frame area to bare metal, clean the wire terminal and re-install a new screw with a internal tooth star washer between the terminal and the frame. Then paint the connection. This should prevent any future corrosion for as long as we are around.

              See if this works for you.

              -Dan-

              Comment

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