54 heater control valve question

[Guy M.]

I guess the majority of folks have the valve closed in summer months if not all the time. Does it block off all flow to the heater and how does the engine circulation keep going? Sounds like a dumb question. Must the flow go thru the heater? Thanks again!

[Troy P.]

Re: 54 heater controll valve question

Yes, shut it off unless judging. When you open it open it all the way. Otherwise they tend to leak.

Not a bad idea to send some fresh fluid through the heater every now and then to mitigate rust.

[Guy M.]

Re: 54 heater controll valve question

Thanks Troy, that what I thought!

[Tony R.]

Re: 54 heater controll valve question

Does anyone have any tips on getting them not to leak? When open all the way mine interferes with the coolant reservoir hose (the old hose has a nice indentation right there). When closed there is no circulation through the heater core, and I am in the process of trying to make sure I get everything flushed out nicely.

I suppose I could try using Teflon tape, but I suspect that will end up looking pretty dodgy.

[Ed H.]

Re: 54 heater controll valve question

NCRS judges frown on Teflon tape as it was not available in 1953/55.

[Tony R.]

Re: 54 heater controll valve question

Good point. Any suggestions anyone? Trying to work through some of these issues on mine during the phase where I am getting it running again, and prior to meticulous restoration.

[Tony R.]

Re: 54 heater controll valve question

I have made my way back to this part. Posted is a photo of two valves. The bottom one is off of my '54. It seems like it is the original. The top one is one I found that is consistent with what I have heard are replacement parts from that era. If you look at the components you will see that the top one has a packing and looks like it will actually hold water and some pressure. The bottom one looks like it may even be missing some pieces. However, I don't know how any other parts would have come out of this mechanism. Can anyone let me know if I am missing something?

Thanks much!

[Troy P.]

Re: 54 heater controll valve question

Looks like the packing is missing. Often found to be leather.

You can swap the mechanical parts from the top one to use on your original one. Zinc plate the Mickey Mouse ears. Or you could seal the threads using a thread sealant paste rather than tape. You can wipe off the excess so it does not show.

[John S.]

Re: 54 heater controll valve question

Looks like the packing is missing. Often found to be leather.

You can swap the mechanical parts from the top one to use on your original one. Zinc plate the Mickey Mouse ears. Or you could seal the threads using a thread sealant paste rather than tape. You can wipe off the excess so it does not show.

Top valve will work or if you want to use the old one use graphite rope packing. Graphite packing has been used for over 100 years on hot water and steam valves. Leather and paste certainly will not work.

[Troy P.]

Re: 54 heater controll valve question

Almost all these valves I have disassembled had a leather packing/seal/or whatever you want to call it, similar to the leather cups used on early carb accelerator pumps.

The paste I recommended will work fine on the threads. That's what it was developed for.

The graphite string John recommends is appropriate for use on valve stems, not sealing threads. But I suspect your leak would be between the stem and cap when the valve is open. If so the graphite string is certainly worth trying. You should be able to find it at your local plumbing supply source. If not, I believe I have some.

When the valve is closed the seal is metal-to-metal. If that leaks your heater will be operational at all times, to some degree. You can use cylinder head valve lapping compound to improve the metal-to-metal seal before reassembly.