Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

[Bruce B.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

If you drive your car a matte clear such as Krylon is the way to go. I used it on my 57 suspension parts and it allows you to see the inspection paint on the parts while still protecting the raw metal.
After 4 years and 5000 miles the parts look great even after a number of rain storms.
If it is a trailer queen some of the wipe on preparations seem to do the job.

[Gene M.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

Guys, understand that flight judging under the CDCIF point appointment will yield some deduction for ANY finish application that was not original. This comes under the "F" portion. Which is an appropriate 20% deduct on each scored piece. This amounts to 5 to 7 points loss in the each the front and rear suspension areas alone. Anything short of naked cast iron finish will be viewed as incorrect. Finish on exhaust manifolds (short of orange overspray) will be treated likewise.

So, parts looking pretty with a supplemental finish may not score as well. You decide and do what is best for you. On my cars I'll eat the points and have it look good! Just understand the judge is just doing his/her job well when deducts are made.

[Paul J.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

Guys, understand that flight judging under the CDCIF point appointment will yield some deduction for ANY finish application that was not original. This comes under the "F" portion. Which is an appropriate 20% deduct on each scored piece. This amounts to 5 to 7 points loss in the each the front and rear suspension areas alone. Anything short of naked cast iron finish will be viewed as incorrect. Finish on exhaust manifolds (short of orange overspray) will be treated likewise.

So, parts looking pretty with a supplemental finish may not score as well. You decide and do what is best for you. On my cars I'll eat the points and have it look good! Just understand the judge is just doing his/her job well when deducts are made.

If you don't coat the parts with something then they will rust, so you lose the points on condition (maybe fewer but you'll still lose some). So to me the points don't matter in this case, it matters more for it to look good.

One thing that wasn't mentioned above was the difficulty in accessing the tight spots when you have to recoat with an anti rust product, as well as having to tape some areas off. For me, it's a lot easier to paint it when it's apart and then forget it. Don't forget, if you use an anti rust product and then accidently let it rust, then you have to clean the rust off before recoating.

[Joe L.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

[QUOTE=

Don't forget, if you use an anti rust product and then accidently let it rust, then you have to clean the rust off before recoating.[/QUOTE]


Paul------


That's, by far, the biggest problem with using rust preventative products (like PreLube 6, etc.).

[Michael G.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

Gene, You are correct about paint that is detectable, however, two coats of flat clear applied to a clean, bare casting is very, very difficult to discern from the bare casting itself. I can't tell the difference indoors or in sunlight, with the two sitting next to each other. I sorta doubt anyone else can make that distinction, on a part sitting by itself.

[Gary R.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

I can tell you what I use for my rebuilds, points generally is not a concern. Most of the builds I do for guys go into street cars to drag cars so they are driven & in some cases will get wet. I doubt they will see snow or salt like I used to subject my 69 to but who knows.For iron parts that were painted, like a steering box, I blast them clean, etch, rinse, flame dry, POR15 and top coat when the POR15 is just right. This is a long process that others won't do but I like the results. They look good and are very durable. I don't care for power coating because it does chip, where if you chip a box you can paint it without issue.For bare iron that someone does not want painted, some boxes, differentials, TA parts like bearing supports. I clean and blast them then use either the RPM as mentioned or Fluid Film and buff it out. I tried the PRELUBE6 and didn't like it.If you are interested I can post some pictures for you to see.

[Steven B.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

I can tell you what I use for my rebuilds, points generally is not a concern. Most of the builds I do for guys go into street cars to drag cars so they are driven & in some cases will get wet. I doubt they will see snow or salt like I used to subject my 69 to but who knows.For iron parts that were painted, like a steering box, I blast them clean, etch, rinse, flame dry, POR15 and top coat when the POR15 is just right. This is a long process that others won't do but I like the results. They look good and are very durable. I don't care for power coating because it does chip, where if you chip a box you can paint it without issue.For bare iron that someone does not want painted, some boxes, differentials, TA parts like bearing supports. I clean and blast them then use either the RPM as mentioned or Fluid Film and buff it out. I tried the PRELUBE6 and didn't like it.If you are interested I can post some pictures for you to see.

Gary, I would like to see some pics. Thanks, Steve

[Joe L.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

Gene, You are correct about paint that is detectable, however, two coats of flat clear applied to a clean, bare casting is very, very difficult to discern from the bare casting itself. I can't tell the difference indoors or in sunlight, with the two sitting next to each other. I sorta doubt anyone else can make that distinction, on a part sitting by itself.

Mike------


I TOTALLY agree.

[Michael C.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

I've "played around" with Rust Prevention Magic (RPM) with mixed results. Tried it on some rusty tractor parts first (which sit in the rain). I carefully followed their instructions, but some areas of some parts starting rusting after a couple of rains. Other areas are as pristine as day one after 6 weeks or so. Sounds like my prep may have be lacking. Their support tech suggested I use lacquer thinner as the final cleaner instead of Dupli-Color Prep-Spray. I'll try that this week. I did try RPM on the engine stamp pad and intake manifold nipple and there're no signs of rust after a few weeks. I don't drive in the rain, but the car is exposed to condensation because of high humidity and rapid temp change here in south La.

[Gary R.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

Steve When I get a chance I'll go into my file and post some pictures of painted and treated iron parts.

[Gary R.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

SteveHere is a '68 box that was blasted, etched, POR15 and top coated.Here is a diff treated with RPMHere is a diff with Fluid Film

[Michael G.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

I am having good results with Eastwood's Extreme diamond clear and matte diamond clear.

[Brian K.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

How about Sharkhide?

[Tom R.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

Talking about different finish products, sometime back Sprayon Dry Graphite was recommended and I used it on the manifolds. Its held up pretty well and has been two years but it doesn't get wet!

manifoldwSprayon.JPG

[Michael G.]

Re: Anti-Rust products vs Clear Coat on Natural Finish Parts - Pros/Cons

Here's a casting with Valspar clear flat paint.