Engine Pad

[Monte M.]

Re: Engine Pad

After looking at it better it almost looks like there is a radius line coming from under the head.
Almost as if the block was decked with the modern circular cutter and stopped just before it got to the numbers.
This might be why the pad was blasted. To try to blend the two surfaces.
If this were the case, it would explain why the number look original. Because they are original.
They have just been blasted with some kind of media.

[Steven B.]

Re: Engine Pad

It looks to me like someone has cleaned off the pad with a wire wheel on a drill motor. If you look at the head, it has a little material removed on a vertical edge. The texture of the pad is pretty close to what you get when aggressive with a wire wheel. It looks a little like tiny pits. It appears as though the top of the water pump housing also got touched. I don't know about the numbers. Are they often out of alignment when in a holder? Someone else can weigh in on that. I don't know.

Steve

[James W.]

Re: Engine Pad

I agree that the pad has been cleaned with some sort of media. If the pad had been cleaned with a wire wheel on a drill motor it would look like mine,see the pictures below which show pictures of the pad on my '64 or reference my reply regarding my 1964 stamp pad in this TDB thread https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...t=broach+marks. I at the young age of 17 when I purchased my original, basket case 1964 plain-Jane, low collectability, convertible back in 1979 and did not know the importance of broach marks or that they existed since I was not an NCRS member at that time but a family member under my dad's number. The car and engine had never been apart, just driven daily and I purchased it as the third owner. During the engine rebuild the block was not decked. I wire wheeled the entire engine block including the stamp pad to remove the flash rust after it had been vat cleaned. Little did I know that I more or less wiped the majority of the broach marks off the pad leaving the original numbers as they came from the factory. Some of the characters in the engine build suffix code are faint at one side and deep at the other, the 4 is shallow and the "D" at the end of the engine suffix is raised up and not in line with the others. The pad was called at a regional meet for lack of broach marks which I agreed with, but they also called the VIN and engine suffix NTFP which I protested. I know this is not a highly collectable car today and nobody in their right mind fakes a 327/300 low option car.

I plan to send some high resolution pictures to Al Grenning and get his opinion on the pad before the car is judged at the 2014 NCRS National Convention next summer.




Best Regards,

James West

[Steven B.]

Re: Engine Pad

James,
I looked at your pictures from the other thread. I though I saw faint evidence of broach marks.

The second set of pictures in this post show some paint removal, although slight, in spots that would be difficult for a blast media to get to if properly protected. One of the spots is the sharp edge on the head right near the "P". The other spot is the portion of the water pump casting where there is some paint removal on the portion of the casting above the deck. I wondered if a media blast would have cleaned it up between the pump casting and block a bit better. It really looks to me like a wire wheel has been in there although slight, possibly after some sort of media blast. That's the only reason I thought it might be evidence of a wire wheel (maybe brass or fine steel). I could be wrong.

Steve

[Michael J.]

Re: Engine Pad

The pad was called at a regional meet for lack of broach marks which I agreed with, but they also called the VIN and engine suffix NTFP which I protested. I know this is not a highly collectable car today and nobody in their right mind fakes a 327/300 low option car.

I plan to send some high resolution pictures to Al Grenning and get his opinion on the pad before the car is judged at the 2014 NCRS National Convention next summer.




Best Regards,

James West

That is a good idea. My experience has been that if they call a pad without broach marks, the whole thing is suspect and they don't give you credit for anything. It seems like the whole pad and numbers are judged together, all or nothing, and no credit given for broach marks if the numbers look NTFP, and vice versa. Good luck.

[Daniel J.]

Re: Engine Pad

I would suggest wiping the pad with a drop of motor oil...that may show any broach marks or foreign marks more clearly.