"66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

[Francis F.]

I bought a new on/off lite switch ,the old one would not turn on the dash lites (raise and dim function shot).after putting the after market switch in all was ok ..untill the first time I had to drive the car home on a pitch black nite in a rual (dark) area,after driving with the bright's on for about 5min....all the lights would go completely OFF.
after a few min.the lights would come back on,this cycling on/off ..continued even to this day.I put the old switch back in just so I could drive the car.....all lamps are T-3,37 1/2 watts etc. an ammeter shows a current draw of apron.12.5 amps D.C. My question is am I the only one having this problem with the new switch ??I had the same problem with my 1960 corvette headlite switch,that one came from a different supplier.
Francis

[Dan D.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

Francis,

There should be threads in the archives on this. It has been discussed several times.

There is a resetting circuit breaker built into the light switch for protection against shorts. Apparently this breaker on the aftermarket switches will not handle the load and trip out, then cool down and come back on again.

You should be able to put the new lite dimmer assembly on the old switch. But it is a bit tricky, you can lose parts very quickly if you take it apart (spring loaded detent). Take it apart inside a box so parts don't go flying.

-Dan-

[Pete B.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

The switch for my 71, had to go back three times before I got one that would not do exactly the same as yours. It was a different switch as mine had the vacuum ports. They finally got me one that works. I know were not supposed to zing vendors but it was Lectric limited. But ....they did make it right so I'm happy.

[Joe R.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

Lectric Limited does not manufacturer switches. They purchase them from a company in Chicago (which will be nameless). It was outstanding of them to repace the defective switch after three times and pay the shipping.
Lectric Limited deserves a gold star for their service to a customer and member of the NCRS!
Experiences like this one should be exchanged more often by satisfied customers!

JR

[Thomas H.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

I had similar experience with a new switch in my 60. Black car, dark night, no lights, NOT fun!

I wrote an article for our chapter newsletter where I tested the reproduction headlight switch over varying loads and voltages. The thermal breaker inside the OEM switch is designed to open with a load of 17 or so amps. The replacement one I bought would open at 9 amps. The construction of the bimetallic breaker is very different from the OEM one and I can't believe the manufacturer tests the switches under load before shipping them otherwise we would not see this problem.

Here is a link to our chapter newsletter with the article. http://clubs.hemmings.com/DelValNCRS...Newsletter.pdf

Tom

[Tom R.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

Wow, great testing regimen and accompanying article Tom. Congratulations. Did you ever contact the manufacturer and not the distributor? The reason I ask is I just installed a GM Reproduction parts switch in my 67 because the dash rheostat on my original switch gave up. I have yet to be able to get out and fully test mine although it does seem to be working as intended so far for the short periods of time I've turned on the lights to check. Thanks.
Tom

[Donald L.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

How lucky can I get, I bought a repro switch and it did not work, I went to my local Pep Boys auto parts, he came out with a old Delco box with an old Delco switch exactly like the original for $6.50 it worked perfect. I tried to buy more but what I got looked like the repro they all sell with the cheep thin copper dimmer not the heavy brass like original.

[Francis F.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

THANKS guy's your response was just what I thought,in one of the shop manuals the wiring diagram shows a symbol ,looks like a smile face just after the #i terminal and connecting to the next terminal.My elect background tells my it
's a symbol for a circuit breaker.
After finding this I called the tech. guy from each vendor.(1966 car purchased from C A) his response ..I should not be driving with the high beams on for that long of a time,(oh?)after a short discussion he was not much help and said I was the 1st to complain,and offered no satisfaction. my 1966 coupe had a repo. switch from ZIP prod.the tech listened to my tale (same on/off )headlites.and of course he had no other complaints,BUT he offered me a new switch.The only stipulation...his records of my purchases only went back to 2008.If I could find the purchase slip he would send me another..comp..the wife and I went thru all the order slips,we started buying parts in 1978.Lo and behold the switch was ordered jan.2007,called tech and new switch was in my hand two days later."ZIP prod"in my estimation is a customer caring company,and will be my 1st choice in the future.CAN YOU BELIEVE....6 YEARS LATER. HATS OFF TO ZIP

[Timothy B.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

If you know the original part #, keep a eye on ebay as Delco Remy headlight switches come up often. There is nothing like a original Delco part for your corvette.

[Paul Y.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

I agree, I have found that a used switch is better than any new switch, made in China in most cases. The switches sold by all of the local vendors are the same sources as the corvette suppliers too in most cases. The first couple I purchased drove me crazy trying to run down the problem. I then found the same problems in the Chevelle switches and etc. They still seem to be readily available on ebay as nos and are just a slight bit of a higher investment. Well worth the difference in cost.

[Richard M.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

Another issue with the headlight switches for the '58-'62's is the mechanical issue of getting the repro switch knob to properly lock in and stay into the repro switch. On several recent restorations, just the additional layers of paint inside the front cluster recess for the ferule and nut can cause a problem. In one case I had to grind away part of the rear of the cluster where the switch face mounts to reduce it's dimension, along with carefully filing the backside of the reproduction plastic "LIGHTS" escutcheon to reduce it's depth. Then and only then would the complete combination of reproduction pieces would work together with the original cluster.

Also a FYI, that in order for the courtesy light to work when the switch knob is rotated fully CCW, that it relies on a clean ground connection on the face of the switch to the back of the cluster. Paint on the back will cause problems.

Francis,
You're right about Zip Products. They have a awesome 1 year return policy with no restock fees, any many times offer special "super-service" beyond 1 year like in your case. I've been there too. If you have a online account setup you can find old invoices. They store all of them in your account page. Mine are accessible back to 2004 when they setup their database.
I've been a player since 1986 when they were hand written yellow sheets. I like the new way better! I really love the real-time-inventory system. When you order online it tells you if the item is in stock or not. If it is and you put in in your "Cart", it takes it out of "virtual" inventory so you know for sure it's yours. In my opinion they have one of the the best online ordering processes in the industry.

Rich

[John S.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

Has any one ever tried repairing a C2 switch. My 65 switch is having problems with the dim feature for the instrument lights. Wondering if it was worth working on or should I just replace. I would try and find a good used original if I have to replace.

[Dan D.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

John,

I repaired my 57 dimmer control and I think C2s are very similar. The main problem with all 50+ year old stuff is corrosion. What I found on my switch is a rivet is used to connect the resistance element to the terminals. The rivet carries the current and became so badly corroded it was no longer conductive (dissimilar metals). Sandpaper, wire brush, solder flux - it took all of this to get the rivet clean enough that it would take solder. But with it soldered, corrosion will never again cause a problem, at least on this connection.

As discussed on this thread, I would not buy an aftermarket switch. Either fix your original (best idea) or look for a NOS. If you take it apart, clean and check all the current carrying parts, including the circuit breakers.

You need a good soldering station, VOM, and cleaning stuff. It is not rocket science, it is really quite simple. Its just that corrosion is your enemy.

-Dan-

[Richard M.]

Re: "66" head lite switch Am I the only one !!

I may be one of the crazies for doing it but I like to repair the older electrical gadgetry whenever possible. Below are a few items I've repaired. At Carlisle a few weeks ago a Father & Son from Puerto Rico restoring a '59 on island stopped by with it's broken Park Brake Switch. The brass spring was cracked at the bend, ready to fall off and a hole in the brass where the plunger hits. Common faults. I told the son how to repair it with a good explanation. After that the Father spoke some Spanish words to his son, then the son said...."My father asks if you would fix it for him and send it back". I couldn't say no so I took it back and last week I fixed it up and tested, repainted and sent it back. I was happy to do it for them.

Headlight switches are pretty easy as you can bend the locking tabs to expose the internals. Just a good contact cleaning is a common fix. Just remember where everything goes when you take it apart!

My toughest challenge recently was a Wonderbar Radio On/Off switch. No power to the radio or the dial light. It took a while but I fixed it. Again all it needed was a good contact cleaning, but it's a 3 gang switch so I had to improvise with silver solder to reassemble the case. Works perfectly now. Those switches are pretty impossible to find.

Rich