1963 Knock off hubs
I have reproduction knock off hubs and wheels on my 1963. The knock off hub on my left front wheel tears thru the keeper pin and ofcourse the wheel begins to loosen. This has happened three times, each time I have caught the problem early before damage was done. I have replaced keepers (pins) and tighten the hub (beat it with a rubber mallet). Same procedure on the other wheels and do not have a problem with them. What am I doing wrong?
-
-
Re: 1963 Knock off hubs
Alex,
There are a few things that can cause KO wheels to loosen. I think the number one reason in your case is your choice of hammers. A rubber hammer will absorb a great percentage of the impact force, no matter how hard you hit the nut.
The original recommended torque specification for the nuts is 450 ft lb. I would guess the closest you will ever come to that with a rubber hammer is about 40-50 ft lb's, if that.
Lead hammers are available at major hardware stores.
It's also possible that the five index/alignment holes on the back side of the wheel are damaged from incorrect indexing on the hub or the wheel running loose for several miles. I would carefully inspect these holes. -
Re: 1963 Knock off hubs
rubber mallet. Wheels must be mounted correctly on thrust pins of hub, with extra long lug nuts in the larger holes of each wheel. Spin spinners down to snug with wheels in the air, lower wheels down to ground and then hammer each spinner at least eight heavy blows with mother thumper lead hammer (not the one that is part of your jack tool kit). After tight, whack slightly more to line up one pin hole, and insert pin. Pins are just for giggles. They do not prevent wheel from loosening if not properly mounted.
Many previous threads on proper mounting technique of K/O wheels in archives.
ps- welcome to NCRS and to the TDB. Good to have you here.
pps- if properly mounted, and not damaged with elongated holes from running while loose, real knock off vette wheels are perfectly safe. I have over 5000 miles on my originals and no sign of one loosening yet. The hub with thrust pins is a good safe design. Mount them right, and tighten them down per the instructions and you are good to go.Last edited by Don H.; August 11, 2013, 09:16 PM.Comment
-
Re: 1963 Knock off hubs
I hope you kept the original steel wheels.63 CoupeComment
-
Re: 1963 Knock off hubs
As others have said, a 4 pound lead hammer is the only way and you've got to really beat the spinner on. I have had 3 midyears with original and knockoff knockoffs and have never had a problem. Can't tell you the number of times I have seen people try to use rubber mallets, dead blow hammers and 2X4s with a claw hammer to beat them on and then have the wheel come loose and or fall off again.Comment
-
Re: 1963 Knock off hubs
Alex -
There are ten holes in each wheel - five smaller holes for the drive pins on the adapter, and five larger clearance holes to accept the lug nuts that secure the adapter to the hub; that makes ten ways to index the wheel to the adapter, five of which WILL result in the wheel coming off.
Make sure the wheel is correctly indexed on the adapter (drive pins in the smaller holes, lug nuts in the larger holes) and tighten as noted above by Michael and Don with a BIG lead hammer, and don't EVER let anyone else (like a tire store or gas station) install your wheels, as they don't have a clue. You can avoid mis-indexing the wheel to the adapter by using the correct "long" lug nuts, which won't allow that to happen. See photo below.
KOAdapter_Nuts.jpgKOAdapterLugNuts2.jpgComment
-
-
Re: 1963 Knock off hubs
The "knock-offs" below are really bolt-on repros. The real knock-offs are in storage. I drive this car a lot, its much safer this way.
wheel.jpgMike
1965 Black Ext / Silver Int. Coupe, L84 Duntov, French Lick, 2023 - Triple Diamond
1965 Red Ext / White & Red Int. Conv. - 327/250 AC Regional Top Flight.Comment
-
Re: 1963 Knock off hubs
Alex,
The advice you have been given already matches what is in the article I'm about to provide. It goes into a bit more detail, scroll down to page 5:
JoeComment
-
Re: 1963 Knock off hubs
Great info on knock offs. follow up question please. It seems that the western knock off wheels for 65/66 come with dark powder coating between the ribs. anyone know how to get the power coating off to make the proper look for 63 wheels?Bruce
Comment
-
Re: 1963 Knock off hubs
Don's giving you spot-on advice: EIGHT HEAVY BLOWS using a lead hammer. Those aftermarket wheels fail to provide adequate installation instructions. Here they are, from the 1965 Corvette Shop Manual:
"CAUTION: Tighten wheel locking nuts every 100 miles for the first 500 miles by striking the wings eight hard blows with hammer provided."
Note, this isn't a make the torque spec ONCE situation. Plus, factory original KO's didn't have "safety pins" because if you followed the installation instructions, you didn't need them!
The reason for re-checking the torque is because these are soft alloy wheels and they can/do deform and 'creep'. Last, the small lead hammer the factory provided was intended as a road side emergency tool and NOT to be used as a routine shop tool. That's why others in this thread tell you go out and get a non-original '******" of a lead hammer from a good tool supplier.
When cars shipped from the factory they did NOT torque and re-torque the KO wheels. Why? They had an in-house '******' of a hydraulic spinner that laid down sufficient torque the first time around.Comment
-
Re: 1963 Knock off hubs
I also have a set (western wheel) there are specific instructions for removing/installation of these wheels. you need a (lead) hammer ! not rubber ! not steel) lead only please you will damage your spinners. I also use anti seize (copper type) different metals require this and if you left your wheels on for years you will know why. . as explained in the other posts the wheels have index's for the nuts and pins. do not be afraid to wack the hell out of the spinners as long as you have a lead hammer( avail on ebay and there is a gm # for it somewhere).Comment
Comment