Power window problem

[Greg S.]

Driver side window will not go down. Passenger window operates with key on. How can I test to see if it is the motor, switch or wires in the drivers window that are bad? Door panel is removed and motor is unplugged. I have a digital voltmeter which is somewhat of a mystery to me. Should be simple but I am an electrical idiot. There is a dark blue wire to the motor that powers it up and a brown wire for down.

[Steven B.]

Re: Power window problem

Greg, I had same problem years ago with big Chevy. I was out with no tools (meter) so I switched the switches and it worked. This method only tells if it is the switch.

[Terry M.]

Re: Power window problem

Driver side window will not go down. Passenger window operates with key on. How can I test to see if it is the motor, switch or wires in the drivers window that are bad? Door panel is removed and motor is unplugged. I have a digital voltmeter which is somewhat of a mystery to me. Should be simple but I am an electrical idiot. There is a dark blue wire to the motor that powers it up and a brown wire for down.

Greg, Set the meter on VOLTS. Depending on the brand the selection point may say V, or it may offer you a range setting like 14v or 24v or 600v. If the latter select 14v. Put the black meter lead on a good bare metal point in the door -- one of the rivets for the window motor will work. Put the red lead on the connector with either of the wires and move the window switch first one direction then the other. If no reading on the meter, try the other wire and do the same thing. If you get readings at both wires motor is bad. If reading on one wire and not the other, either the switch or wire is bad.

Switches can be checked with Joe's method. Bad wire is usually in the tube that connects the door to the body. The wires get flexed every time you open/close the door. They won't last forever before they break.

[Steven B.]

Re: Power window problem

Greg, Set the meter on VOLTS. Depending on the brand the selection point may say V, or it may offer you a range setting like 14v or 24v or 600v. If the latter select 14v. Put the black meter lead on a good bare metal point in the door -- one of the rivets for the window motor will work. Put the red lead on the connector with either of the wires and move the window switch first one direction then the other. If no reading on the meter, try the other wire and do the same thing. If you get readings at both wires motor is bad. If reading on one wire and not the other, either the switch or wire is bad.

Switches can be checked with Joe's method. Bad wire is usually in the tube that connects the door to the body. The wires get flexed every time you open/close the door. They won't last forever before they break.

Joe!!??? Summer over up there yet Terry? Talked to a retired AEP first line supervisor a couple of days ago here in TX and said he thought he met you a few years ago. 'can't remember his last name, though. First name Bill. About 5'10'', 165, red hair and beard, 60+. Steve

[Terry M.]

Re: Power window problem

Joe!!??? Summer over up there yet Terry? Talked to a retired AEP first line supervisor a couple of days ago here in TX and said he thought he met you a few years ago. 'can't remember his last name, though. First name Bill. About 5'10'', 165, red hair and beard, 60+. Steve

Nope. Summer is in full swing. Lovely day in the Mississippi Valley -- actually on a hill outside Galena IL. -- a ski resort in the winter. One wouldn't believe this is even a part of Illinois. No flatland here. Judging Corvettes on the edge of the hill. It would be hard to have more fun.

I just can't remember anyone's name -- even with references in hand (so to speak). Sounds like you are having the same problem.
If the guy from AEP was at one of the many NCRS events in Texas, it is possible -- but faces are only slightly better than names with me. It is socially embarrassing at times, but I have learned to live with it. I have been that way all my life.reg out -- or was it Joe, or Bob. Whatever

[Steven B.]

Re: Power window problem

Terry, I cannot remember names either. Worst was after Nancy and I had been married 3 years, dated 3 years before that. I began to introduce her and forgot her name and couldn't remember it for a few minutes. I think all people should be required to wear name tags at all times (yes, even then). It would be a lot less embarrassing. Sounds like you having a good time. Steve

[Greg S.]

Re: Power window problem

Thanks Terry. Up wire showed 11.6 volts with switch pushed to up. Down wire showed 0 with switch moved to down. Bad switch! Took a jumper wire from battery pos to down side of motor and window went down. Motor OK! Now let me ask, is there a way to rebuild switches or just buy new. Second question, motor is very slow and tired acting. Can motors be rebuilt or buy new if the goal is normal operation?

[Terry M.]

Re: Power window problem

Thanks Terry. Up wire showed 11.6 volts with switch pushed to up. Down wire showed 0 with switch moved to down. Bad switch! Took a jumper wire from battery pos to down side of motor and window went down. Motor OK! Now let me ask, is there a way to rebuild switches or just buy new. Second question, motor is very slow and tired acting. Can motors be rebuilt or buy new if the goal is normal operation?

Years ago on an old Caprice I had I rebuilt a failed switch, but I think new switches are available reasonably today. Those switches used to be generic across all GM car lines, and I am sure that is true of your 1972. Check availability from the aftermarket before you go trough all the trouble. I know nothing about the aftermarket situation.

Steve (Joe) how's this for fun?

[IMAGE]
http://s1277.photobucket.com/user/gismack/library/[IMAGE]

The picture is too big in my phone.

I don't know how to post a Photbucket link on here, but click on it.

[Edward J.]

Re: Power window problem

Greg, its been a few years since I have done this with power window switches. If you flip the switch over the back side of the switch will have some release points to remove the switch, the chrome piece will stay together and you'll have the small copper flippers the activate the motor directions, a piece of sandpaper will clean the contact areas on the switch. Its a simple task once the switch is in hand.

[Steven B.]

Re: Power window problem

Years ago on an old Caprice I had I rebuilt a failed switch, but I think new switches are available reasonably today. Those switches used to be generic across all GM car lines, and I am sure that is true of your 1972. Check availability from the aftermarket before you go trough all the trouble. I know nothing about the aftermarket situation.

Steve (Joe) how's this for fun?

[IMAGE]
http://s1277.photobucket.com/user/gismack/library/[IMAGE]

The picture is too big in my phone.

I don't know how to post a Photbucket link on here, but click on it.

Looks like a great time Terry! Steve

[Terry M.]

Re: Power window problem

Greg, its been a few years since I have done this with power window switches. If you flip the switch over the back side of the switch will have some release points to remove the switch, the chrome piece will stay together and you'll have the small copper flippers the activate the motor directions, a piece of sandpaper will clean the contact areas on the switch. Its a simple task once the switch is in hand.

Exactly as I remember unless the contacts are burned beyond repair. Then another switch can be sourced from the salvage yard. Look for 4-door cars and take the back door switches; they are used less. You might have to find a vehicle from the late 1970s as your source. I am not sure when the switch design changed. On the other hand if reproductions are available (search the on-line catalogs from all the big Corvette parts suppliers - it is easy to do) why waste your time?

[Oliver B.]

Re: Power window problem

Hmmm, I experienced after winter that my left pw goes up/down a lot SLOWER than before. I already checked the switch okay, but haven't touched anything else, yet. What might cause the speed of the motor to decrease? Bad motor, "gummed" grease, maybe?
I would assume a fault in the cables would make the motor not move at all, right?

[Terry M.]

Re: Power window problem

Hmmm, I experienced after winter that my left pw goes up/down a lot SLOWER than before. I already checked the switch okay, but haven't touched anything else, yet. What might cause the speed of the motor to decrease? Bad motor, "gummed" grease, maybe?
I would assume a fault in the cables would make the motor not move at all, right?

No Oliver a problem with the cables (more likely the connections) CAN cause slow movement, but of course the two options you mention are also a consideration. Aditionally lubrication fo the moving/sliding parts is also a possibility. In another thread I encouraged the poster to become familiar with the methodology op checking for voltage drop. An Internet search will give you some graphics about it. As our cars get older these simple checks are exssential to learn. They are not complex and may lead you to the root of slow windows.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=29YE04_dRwU