Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

[Roger D.]

Good Morning folks:

I'd like to replace the brake, fuel, and vent lines (4 in all) going from front to rear on the chassis of my '72 coupe. This is an unrestored car that looks exceptionally good on topside however, I expect trouble along the way. The car started it's first few years of life up north and has some light to moderate surface rust issues underneath.

Of those who have performed this task, what pitfalls am I facing? Anyone have any advice before I attempt this? Will I even be able to get the bolts out that hold the line clamps in place on the top of the chassis (between the chassis and body underside)? Any moral support before I start would be appreciated.


Regards,
Roger

[Terry M.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

I have never tried that, but listening to others on this board -- remove the body, or rethink your goals.

[Edward J.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

Roger, The main brake line front to rear can be done, main fuel line is another story, as they need to route up the pass. side kick-up and into the inside of the frame rail.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

Brake lines are possible, fuel line not so much. Jeff Salz alleges he has replaced that one with not too much difficulty but I ended up kinking it and then inserting a union. I was using a lift, and still had problems. If your car is a 4 speed it is MUCH harder because of the middle crossover.

If they are not leaking I would not touch them. Really. Wait until you HAVE to replace them. Just say no.

Oh, I had to buy and modify a couple of inexpensive tools (socket, open end wrench) to get out the bolts but it can be done.

[Roger D.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

I found a picture of where the lines go over the kickup on passenger side as Edward mentioned above. I will have the entire suspension out when I do the lines. Would that make it any easier for me to say "yes" to this project Patrick? With the surface rust I mentioned, I'm wondering "IF" the line clamp bolts will even come out without breaking. I guess if that happend, that would then force me to go ahead and pull the body else I'd have to do some non NCRS approved re-attaching of the lines. By the way, the lines are not leaking, they just show some rust in a couple of areas.

And forgive me guys. I posted this somewhat in haste this morning before I went out for the day. Tonight I found a couple of earlier posts on this although I'm surprised not to find more discussion on the topic. I guess as Terry was eluding to, most folks do this with the body already off.

Regards,
Roger

[Patrick H.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

I will have the entire suspension out when I do the lines. Would that make it any easier for me to say "yes" to this project Patrick?

Regards,
Roger

No.

Take a look at the fuel lines on the right hand side. See where it goes through the frame at the middle crossmember and then shortly thereafter goes up and along the rear kickup? This is the part that is exceedingly difficult to do when you have a prebent, one piece fuel line in your hand.

So why are you removing the suspension too? Is the car in need of all of this work?

[Jeffrey S.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

Brake lines are possible, fuel line not so much. Jeff Salz alleges he has replaced that one with not too much difficulty but I ended up kinking it and then inserting a union. I was using a lift, and still had problems. If your car is a 4 speed it is MUCH harder because of the middle crossover.

If they are not leaking I would not touch them. Really. Wait until you HAVE to replace them. Just say no.

Oh, I had to buy and modify a couple of inexpensive tools (socket, open end wrench) to get out the bolts but it can be done.

I did two cars- my own '69 and a neighbor's '72. All lines, fuel and brake were replaced. The '69 was more difficult due to the fact the fuel lines are both fuel and return line. Both are automatics but I did not remove the crossmember on the '72. I didn't have access to a lift so it was done on jack stands on the ground. The '69 had pretty much everything out from the transmission back. In both cases the bolts holding the clips in came out. I did cut the old lines and pull them out of the clips so I could get a tool on the bolts more easily. Once the lines were out of the clips I could flatten the clips if necessary to get a box wrench on the bolts. If I was to do this again I would NOT use stainless steel for 2 reasons. First, it is way harder to make a good, leakproof seal at the fittings. Second, it does require a bit of slight straightening and re-bending of a couple of bends and steel is more bendable. I try to remember that success coms in "cans", failure comes in "can'ts".
Jeff

[Roger D.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

No.

So why are you removing the suspension too? Is the car in need of all of this work?

Patrick, that would be a yes. I've had the car only a few years. I drive it very "gingerly" let's say because it appears the only thing that has been done to the bottom half of the car in the past 40+ years is what I have done myself (with the help of my brother and fellow Corvette enthusiast, Phil who is also a member here). So far, I've replaced front brake lines, performed a complete caliper overhaul, and dropped the tranny to replace all the seals.

Regards,
Roger

[Roger D.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

I did two cars- my own '69 and a neighbor's '72. All lines, fuel and brake were replaced. The '69 was more difficult due to the fact the fuel lines are both fuel and return line. Both are automatics but I did not remove the crossmember on the '72. I didn't have access to a lift so it was done on jack stands on the ground. The '69 had pretty much everything out from the transmission back. In both cases the bolts holding the clips in came out. I did cut the old lines and pull them out of the clips so I could get a tool on the bolts more easily. Once the lines were out of the clips I could flatten the clips if necessary to get a box wrench on the bolts. If I was to do this again I would NOT use stainless steel for 2 reasons. First, it is way harder to make a good, leakproof seal at the fittings. Second, it does require a bit of slight straightening and re-bending of a couple of bends and steel is more bendable. I try to remember that success coms in "cans", failure comes in "can'ts".
Jeff

Thanks Jeff for those tips! By the way, I've been working towards getting the car judged someday. Repacing these lines with the body on, will I end up with anything about the install which would be disagreeable with future judging?

Regards,
Roger

[Patrick H.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

Patrick, that would be a yes. I've had the car only a few years. I drive it very "gingerly" let's say because it appears the only thing that has been done to the bottom half of the car in the past 40+ years is what I have done myself (with the help of my brother and fellow Corvette enthusiast, Phil who is also a member here). So far, I've replaced front brake lines, performed a complete caliper overhaul, and dropped the tranny to replace all the seals.

Regards,
Roger

Roger, just because it hasn't been touched doesn't mean it needs to be touched. A lot of my 150,000 mile daily driver hasn't been touched either, nor my wife's 80,000 mile driver, yet I'm not replacing parts "just because." My personal pholosophy (as a generalization) is that if the factory part is still there are working fine there is no need to replace it just because of age.

[Kurt G.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

Roger,

i just did this project last winter on my '72 coupe with the body "on." By "on" I mean I did not totally remove the body. I am lucky to have a lift and a good friend. We removed the body mounts and were able to lift the body about 3 or so inches. This gave us just enough room to work a little easier. Be very patient and DO NOT RUSH. This is really not a one man job either. A lift makes it easy, on your back under jack stands, not so much.

We tarted at the back and pushed/pulled the lines forward. You will have to do some minor bending or straightening of the lines when you get toward the parts of the lines in front of the kick-ups, but if you are careful with how you bend them you will be able to adjust them to look pretty good when finished.

Regarding your question about clamp access, you will have to raise the body a little to get to the bolts unless you have very tiny hands and very tiny stubby wrenches.

All in all it took us about 6-7 hours to replace the fuel and return lines and the brake lines with steel. It's pretty tough stuff, but like your car, mine spent the first 30 years of its life near Chicago so there was some rust. And that's an understatement. My left return line crumbled in a couple of places when we pulled it out.

Good luck and have fun.

[Roger D.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

Roger, just because it hasn't been touched doesn't mean it needs to be touched. A lot of my 150,000 mile daily driver hasn't been touched either, nor my wife's 80,000 mile driver, yet I'm not replacing parts "just because." My personal pholosophy (as a generalization) is that if the factory part is still there are working fine there is no need to replace it just because of age.

Patrick, well in this case, all the bushings are so dried out that I have chunks of them falling off. Another example is the trailing arm shims are so rusted, that pieces of them are falling out also. A close examination doesn't reveal any rust spots heavy enough on the frame to jeopardize the structural integrity... at least in places I can see.

[Roger D.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

Roger,

i just did this project last winter on my '72 coupe with the body "on." By "on" I mean I did not totally remove the body. I am lucky to have a lift and a good friend. We removed the body mounts and were able to lift the body about 3 or so inches. This gave us just enough room to work a little easier. Be very patient and DO NOT RUSH. This is really not a one man job either. A lift makes it easy, on your back under jack stands, not so much.

Kurt. That is a thought...I would have to somehow first muster up the "courage" to do that. If I got the body off 3 inches I would prolly just go ahead and lift it off and restore the entire chassis. The 6-7 hours you mentioned...did that time include disconnecting everything necessary and lifting the body off? My brother has a 4 post lift in his garage.

Regards,
Roger

[Terry M.]

Re: Replacing brake, fuel, & vent lines front ot rear on '72 Coupe

Roger,

i just did this project last winter on my '72 coupe with the body "on." By "on" I mean I did not totally remove the body. I am lucky to have a lift and a good friend. We removed the body mounts and were able to lift the body about 3 or so inches. This gave us just enough room to work a little easier. Be very patient and DO NOT RUSH. This is really not a one man job either. A lift makes it easy, on your back under jack stands, not so much.

We tarted at the back and pushed/pulled the lines forward. You will have to do some minor bending or straightening of the lines when you get toward the parts of the lines in front of the kick-ups, but if you are careful with how you bend them you will be able to adjust them to look pretty good when finished.

Regarding your question about clamp access, you will have to raise the body a little to get to the bolts unless you have very tiny hands and very tiny stubby wrenches.

All in all it took us about 6-7 hours to replace the fuel and return lines and the brake lines with steel. It's pretty tough stuff, but like your car, mine spent the first 30 years of its life near Chicago so there was some rust. And that's an understatement. My left return line crumbled in a couple of places when we pulled it out.

Good luck and have fun.

What did I say in my post above? Off is OFF -- the distance is not material.