Four post lift and floor grade
For you guys with a lift, did you make accommodations for garage slope? Mine slopes about 1/8 per foot. I guess you could shim the low side, but I was wanting the convenience of casters to move the lift around, if possible. The concrete is 4" rated at 3000 lbs, which is apparently minimum spec for a 4 poster, but not sure if that takes into account a garage floor built to code, which is 1/8 per foot here. Was thinking that maybe the ramps could be leveled, but this would still give unequal weight distribution to the low side, so that the concrete would be taking more force, and the 4" 3000 lb rule would not apply. Is this a valid concern?
-
-
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
I have 2, and no concessions were made for the floor slope. I find it more important to be sure the 4 corners are sync'ed or timed properly, which is usually easy to do.
I've never had an issue even though there is a drain not that far from each lift.Vice-Chairman (West), Michigan Chapter NCRS
71 "deer modified" coupe
72 5-Star Bowtie / Duntov coupe. https://www.flickr.com/photos/124695...57649252735124
2008 coupe
Available stickers: Engine suffix code, exhaust tips & mufflers, shocks, AIR diverter valve broadcast code. -
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
My floor is identical to yours and there are no issues whatsoever with the 4 post lift. Mine is also a 4 inch pour. I do not bolt it to the floor as they self level with weight on them. You will be fine.
The thickness of the floor is more critical with a 2 post lift and the stresses that puts on the floor.Comment
-
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
Most of us don't give much of a thought to the quality of the surface we park our cars on. The 4-pots lifts used by NCRS at convention (and I believe they are typical construction) have a larger footprint than most/all cars, so the weight per square is less with the lift than the car alone -- not with standing the added weight of the lift itself. My take is you are over thinking the floor support issue.
As to the slope of the floor --I just am not sure, but I do doubt it would be much of an issue either.TerryComment
-
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
Roger,
Same question, different board. Not you by chance who asked this on GJ, did you?
TerryComment
-
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
So on a typical 22' garage you have 2 1/2 inches of slope. No sweat. Also, I've had a 4 post lift with casters for 7 years and have no problem. Besides, you can't use the casters with a car on the lift anyway. The weight would break the axles on the casters and at that point having a 4" concrete floor would be the least of your worries.Kurt Geis
Chairman, Midway USA Chapter
Targa Blue 1972, Top Flight and Duntov Award, 2014
Arctic White 1994, Top Flight, Hrt. of Amer. Reg. 2011
Arctic White 2013 60th Anniv Special Edition Conv.Comment
-
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
FWIW, I've had my 4 post lift for approx 7 years, using it at least weekly each spring/summer/fall. Last year, I used casters to remove the lift when I had the floor coated with epoxy. My floor is sloped for drainage. I also have not bolted the lift to the floor and it has never moved - before or after the epoxy project.
Hope this helps.Don Lowe
NCRS #44382
Carolinas ChapterComment
-
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
Roger the advise in this thread is right on , especially from Terry and Dave. I have been installing lifts for over 30 years. The amount of slope is ok up to 4 inches . The lifts should be leveled and plumbed for the slope , and the maximun adjustment allows for 4 inches without spacer plates. As Dave said the more the slope the harder it is to get a pushed car on the lift . Many lift companies have optional longer ramps which makes it easier with a dead vehicle or something very low . All lifts on the market today are designed to be free standing, meaning they do not have to be bolted down. I have numerous customers who want to be bolted for the additional safety factor
As the other posts stated any firm floor 3 to 4 inches is sufficent , at Carlisle they do the exhaust installs on the grass every year so far they have not had a problem with it.
The one thing to rember is that you always want the lift level when it is on the safeties . This adjustment is one of the last to be done on installation.
MarkComment
-
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
Yep, that's me.Comment
-
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
Mark, thanks for the explanation. You mention they should be level and plumb. I'm guessing that means the runways, or is there a way to plumb the posts without using shims?Comment
-
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
Roger up to a 4 inch slope you should be able to level the runways so that the lift is level on the safeties. If the slope is more than that shims or spacers are needed. We use 4 foot carpenter levels and if there is a large space under the base plate , we will use lift shims.
MarkComment
-
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
Dave we are on the same page, I quess I didn't explain the leveling very well. The lift as I said should be level on the safeties . With a slope it is ok that the runways are parallel to the slab. It is more important the lift be level when parked off of the ground. Your BYB lift has adjustments up to 4 inches for leveling the safeties, after that shims or spacer plates should be used. I agree with your using the wheel stops and chocks , you can never be too safe. One other thing to keep in mind , the cables will stretch a little over time with weight on the lift and might have to be adjusted.
MarkComment
-
Re: Four post lift and floor grade
In my garage where my Rotary lift is, the slope is greater than I liked. Although the lift had enough adjustment in the cables to compensate, I choose to install risers at one end. The risers are 4" high and 12" square (just a little larger than the foot print of the base). I also anchored it to the floor with wedge anchor bolts.
I did have to purchase longer ramps for ground clearance when driving onto the lift because of the added height of the lift at the drive on end.Comment
Comment