C2 Splash shields

[Jim S.]

Probably a dumb question and one that's has been asked and answered before, but after going through 30 plus archived posts , here goes!

On the triangular splash shields where the rubber seal straddles the edge, do the staples go through both sides of the rubber seal , or only through the top and the metal edge ?

Also, are these staples and rubber seal painted and or "blacked out" just like the A-arm shields are, or not ? And if not, as I suspect they are not , wouldn't this be a good place to use the Stainless Staples rather then the home made 16 gauge ones, as no paint means certain rust ? !

Jim

[Gene M.]

Re: C2 Splash shields

Jim,
Staples go thru both rubber edges and steel pan. But be sure to use a 400 series stainless because sneaky judges have been know to set a magnet on them. 400 is magnetic 300 is not. Sheet metal is painted then assembled with rubber and stapled.

[Jim S.]

Re: C2 Splash shields

Thanks Gene,

I was afraid of that . Both edges of the rubber , and if I am hearing you correctly, not painted or blacked out afterwards .Bummer !

Certainly makes it more difficult all the way around ! But a least I will get it right .

Thanks for the tip on the 400 . I will try to find some .

Jim

[Michael M.]

Re: C2 Splash shields

Here’s a link to an article by Dave Zuberer I found very useful when doing my splash shields:

http://www.lbfun.com/warehouse/tech_info/body_&_frame/Amethodforinstallingstaples.pdf

[Jim S.]

Re: C2 Splash shields

Thanks Michael,

Always great to have pictures !

Now final and last question.

On the larger of the two triangular pieces , the staples holes indicate that the rubber seal follows the smaller, but rather deeper cutout indentation along the curve . Thus giving me and almost prefect fit of the seal, end to end .
On the smaller of the two pieces , the staples hole seem to indicate the rubber seal just goes straight over the larger , but less indented cutout . Thus giving me a lot of over lap on either one end ,or a smaller amount of over lap on both ends .(See inserted picture for clarification . )

So the question is this . Do I trim to even on both ends , allow over lap on both ends , or allow a lot of over lap on one end ?

If I had any rubber on them when I took them off I would know this . However none was present , so I am in the dark here . Pictures of originals anyone?

Thanks ,

Jim

[Gene M.]

Re: C2 Splash shields

Jim,
Try to make the rubber follow the contour as best you can. But when assembled to the car the body mount on the frame will have it's way with the rubber anyway.

[Wayne M.]

Re: C2 Splash shields

Here's some pics off a '64; some '65s (early and late). There's 14 staples on that '64 shield in the first pic. Just to show how the general did it. Notice the curves in the staples at their ends (almost like a ribbon bow).

Quiz: where might you find that filler metal tab tack welded to eliminate the curve on the passenger side shield ? (ref. last 3 pics)











c

[Jim S.]

Re: C2 Splash shields

Quiz: where might you find that filler metal tab tack welded to eliminate the curve on the passenger side shield ? (ref. last 3 pics)

I believe late '65 396 cars had the added tab.

[Bill W.]

Re: C2 Splash shields

Wayne 17346 does not have the added tab . Also no weatherstrip or staple holes due to side exhaust .

[Jim S.]

Re: C2 Splash shields

Thanks Wayne,

Always great to have pictures , but not exactly what I was hoping for .

As your first picture shows the passenger side does indeed follow the curve, as I surmised from mine, seeing the staple hole and looking at the AIM. Once that is done the seal is pretty much a perfect fit end to end .

I further assumed that the drivers side pretty much just went straight across and it does. (No AIM picture to look at) However this results in a lot of excess seal .
That resulting extra or excess is split , with some rubber on either side on your first 64 picture, and it looks like the early 65 picture shows all of the extra on one side . So I am still not positive as to how to make mine appear

I guess I am just going to split the difference and allow a little excess on either side . I assume that it was a random thing , with some one way and some the other . After all , I bet the Aim did not call for 14 staples !

As to your quiz, and to prove that I first searched the archives , I will confirm that the Tab was used on big Block cars . Don't remember what years as I didn't pay much attention since mine is a small block, but I did read about it .


Thanks Again ,

Jim

[Tom D.]

Re: C2 Splash shields

LICS says the curve on the left hand (driver's) side started in April 1963, same as the availability of Air Cond. Why did A/C need this little curve? Was the battery on the LH side for 1963 Corvettes with Air?

[Richard G.]

Re: C2 Splash shields

I fought mine on my 63 even before I rebuild the car.

I don't think the aftermarket replacement battery box made it any easier as it encroaches into the splash shield area.
They can be tight and not any fun to install.
I would attempt to install them, if you haven't done so already, before attaching the rubber.
You could grind some clearance into the splash shield before installing the rubber to the shield.
I had all GM parts and they still didn't fit well enough to install all the bolts unless the shield was trimmed.
If your radiator overflows it also dumps into this same are were any battery acid tends to drip.
Be sure to tap all the holes first. A little anti seize on the bolts wouldn't hurt anything.
You can see mine installed without the rubber in the picture below.
Unless you have clearance between the shield and the frame you will not have room to install it with the rubber in place.
Any grinding will be hidden by the rubber.