Re-Keying 69 Door Locks

[Greg L.]

I was wondering if there is a procedure to re-key these door locks?

I totaly forgot about this until it was time to put them back in and remembered that the drivers side has to have the key pulled out ever so slightly to work and the passenger side lock doesn't work at all for some reason(both using the ignition key).

I also noticed that the drivers side lock stainless cover is held on with four tabs bent over but the passenger side lock(the one that doesn't work at all) is crimped all the way around so it looks like it's lip was rolled to hold it in place.

Any advice is appreciated.

[Jim D.]

Re: Re-Keying 69 Door Locks

Any locksmith can re-key a lock. The last ones I had done cost me $15 for 2 locks.

[Gary B.]

Re: Re-Keying 69 Door Locks

Greg,

The four tabs on the driver's side door lock mean that the original face cap has been replaced, which suggests that the lock was opened up and the internals were serviced in some way. All replacement face caps use the four tabs. No one makes replacement face caps with the 360 degree crimp region, since there is no easy or elegant way to perform that 360 crimp. Whereas it is trivial to bend over the four tabs on the replacement face caps.

Your passenger side lock with the 360 crimp might well be original. It could just be gummed up and that's why it doesn't work with your key.

Gary

[Terry M.]

Re: Re-Keying 69 Door Locks

I was wondering if there is a procedure to re-key these door locks?

I totaly forgot about this until it was time to put them back in and remembered that the drivers side has to have the key pulled out ever so slightly to work and the passenger side lock doesn't work at all for some reason(both using the ignition key).

I also noticed that the drivers side lock stainless cover is held on with four tabs bent over but the passenger side lock(the one that doesn't work at all) is crimped all the way around so it looks like it's lip was rolled to hold it in place.

Any advice is appreciated.

Based on your description of the crimps and rolled edge on the cover it is possible your passenger side lock is the original and the driver's side has been changed. If however the driver's side matches the ignition then the situation is far more mysterious than it first appears. The original locks will have the key code stamped on them -- some over-the-counter door locks also had the code stamped on them. With that code anyone with the proper books (not likely at your local locksmith) can make you a key. You do have the right keyway? -- a small letter stamped on the part of the key that inserts into the lock? I think 1969 should be E & H. Edit add: See Page 27 of the 4th Edition 1968-69 NCRS TIM&JG.

If your goal is just to have functioning locks so that you don't need an over-sized key ring to drive the car, any locksmith can accommodate you, but you will likely have to bring them the ignition key and both door locks.

If your goal is NCRS judging you will need more detailed key(s), including the way the notches are cut and the key codes on the knock-outs. In that case there are several members who advertise in The Driveline and/or post here. Pete Lindahl would be my choice, but I have known him for several decades so I am prejudiced. Find him in the members list under COMMUNITY above. Pete can also make your storage compartment & spare tire locks and keys match.

[Gary B.]

Re: Re-Keying 69 Door Locks

Terry,

It sounds like Greg's ignition key inserts into the passenger's side door lock, which suggests the lock has the correct E keyway for '69. I'd try to aggressively clean and relube that door lock before I tried anything more involved.

Also, at some point in the C3 era, I believe that the 4 sequence, alphanumeric code was no longer stamped into the out surface of the door locks. I don't know what year that change happened, but without that stamped code it makes it impossible to know what key goes to a door lock if you just have isolated door lock in hand. Of course one can always remove the original face cap and read the tumblers, but then one is faced with either re-using the de-crimped face cap or switching to the 4-tab replacement face cap.

Gary

[Greg L.]

Re: Re-Keying 69 Door Locks

Thanks Guys. This is turing out to be more interesting that I first realized...

Yes I have the E and H keys but they aren't the originals. The drivers door key also works in the ignition and I seem to remember being suprised years ago that the passenger side lock didn't work but since I'd rarely use it I was thinking that maybe it never worked when I bought the car and just lived with it. BUT, today I had a closer look at the door locks and I see that they both have the same code stamping(fonts, depth, etc) so I assume that they were both stamped together as a set. The code is a number, letter, number, number.

Maybe all I really have to do is give the passenger one a good cleaning beyond my usual spraying with WD-40?

So am I correct in thinking that all I need to do is provide this alpha-numeric code to say Pete Lindahl and he can set me up with a correct set of keys? Maybe I should just do that because the keys that I have are quite badly worn and maybe that is part of my problem...

[Gary B.]

Re: Re-Keying 69 Door Locks

Greg,

Given the alpha-numeric code any "decent" locksmith can cut you a new key. Pete can code stamp the knockout as well as cut you a new key.

But if I were you, I would sort out the problem with passenger door lock first. Also, WD-40 is not a good choice lubricating the lock. It will dry out and stop lubricating in short order. I use Tri-Flow with PTFE. I'd clean and lube the lock and if that doesn't work, then I'd remove the passenger door lock. You might find it's been replaced with another original for some reason and it has the alpha-numeric code stamped into the outer housing, but maybe that code doesn't match the ignition/driver's door code.

The '69 ignition/door lock codes were 0J00 thru 9J99 or 0K00 thru 9K99. The codes for E keyway keys also used for 73 and 77 were different, which is one way to tell a '69 E keyway key from a '73 or '77 E keyway key.

Gary

[Greg L.]

Re: Re-Keying 69 Door Locks

Well I guess I got lucky on this one because now the passenger side one works.

I took it with me to work last night and sprayed the internals with a product similar to Brake Kleen and all of a sudden it freed up! I guess the lock really did work when I first bought the car and then must have stuck at some time years ago...

Anyways, the drivers lock still needs to have the key slightly pulled out to work and the key is badly worn so I'm hopping that a properly cut key will solve that too. Terry, I couldn't find Pete's ad in the latest Driveline so I'll try and contact him through the member list to see if he can help me. Also has anyone used Jesser Classic Keys? I'm just looking for other options in case Pete is too busy because I want to get these locks back in asap and want the keys to pass judging as well.

Gary, we have Tri-Flow at work but I've heard that a dry graphite lub works well on locks too so I was wondering if I should go that route seeing as they are out, clean and dry at his point.

[John H.]

Re: Re-Keying 69 Door Locks

I couldn't find Pete's ad in the latest Driveline so I'll try and contact him through the member list to see if he can help me.

Greg -

IMO, you'd be better off to work with Pete or Pat Krause; Joey Jesser is WAY too proud of his keys.

[Greg L.]

Re: Re-Keying 69 Door Locks

Greg -

IMO, you'd be better off to work with Pete or Pat Krause; Joey Jesser is WAY too proud of his keys.

LOL Thanks John. I've already sent Pete an e-mail and I'll get ahold of Pat too.