I'm looking at a potential problem with body to frame issues on a friend's 1960 being restored, particularly concerned if there will be enough clearance to close the hood without hitting the air cleaner( 2x4 270 HP ). Using the#940 Dewitt's restoration Top Tank radiator.
Restoration underway, frame was restored, body finish painted and back on the frame with new reproduction radiator support(correct for Top Tank). The car is a June(late) build and has the correct '60 hood with the proper depression for clearance of the radiator support front horizontal bar. Body is shimmed and doors installed and aligned with good gaps. I count about 2 or 3 shims at the front floor 4 body mount positions.Hood was installed and fits properly. No engine installed yet, being rebuilt. No steering column back in yet. Front sway bar installed and properly mounted. Front bumpers are installed. Radiator is NOT installed and hood is now removed to work easier in the engine bay.
This is what I'm seeing......
1- There are NO shims installed at the lower radiator support mount, just the one rubber cushion to the 3rd arm bracket.
2- The lower radiator support "reinforcement bracket" fits properly between the rad support and the fiberglass lower baffle. The lower baffle is bolted and bonded to the lower valance as original. There is very little adjustment for this bracket in the vertical direction.
3- I see the left inner skirt is tightly forced at the forward point and is hitting the frame in such a way it is bending the inner skirt just in front of the sway bar bracket and is in tension. The right inner skirt is touching but not bending the skirt. Also, the right lower control arm inner corner is touching the radiator support.
4- I test fit the original fan shroud. The shroud sits on the frame horns just ahead of the sway bar brackets. The vertical bolt holes in the shroud do NOT line up with the radiator support mount holes. The shroud mount holes are apx 1/2" HIGHER that the mating holes in the radiator support.
I have my 1959 270 HP car here and measured a reference point to compare. I measured from the top face of the forward sway bar mount bolt on each side, to the top outward & rearward edge of the radiator support on both sides. I get 12 1/4" on my '59. I have a copper radiator. My hood closes fine on my 2x4 engine with repro air cleaner. Never had a issue with hood to engine clearance.
I measured the same points on the 1960 as it sits.......I get 11 3/4". This is a difference of 1/2" when compared to my '59. If I raise the 1960 body at the radiator support lower mount with 1/2" thickness worth of shims, the lower radiator support lower baffle reinforcement bracket will likely not fit. I am not sure if part of the issue is the reproduction radiator support.
So if you have a tape measure handy, next time your in the garage please measure from the top face of your forward front sway bar mount bolts to the top of you radiator support rearward edge on both sides.
Thanks.......Rich
p.s. I get some pictures when it's stops raining
Restoration underway, frame was restored, body finish painted and back on the frame with new reproduction radiator support(correct for Top Tank). The car is a June(late) build and has the correct '60 hood with the proper depression for clearance of the radiator support front horizontal bar. Body is shimmed and doors installed and aligned with good gaps. I count about 2 or 3 shims at the front floor 4 body mount positions.Hood was installed and fits properly. No engine installed yet, being rebuilt. No steering column back in yet. Front sway bar installed and properly mounted. Front bumpers are installed. Radiator is NOT installed and hood is now removed to work easier in the engine bay.
This is what I'm seeing......
1- There are NO shims installed at the lower radiator support mount, just the one rubber cushion to the 3rd arm bracket.
2- The lower radiator support "reinforcement bracket" fits properly between the rad support and the fiberglass lower baffle. The lower baffle is bolted and bonded to the lower valance as original. There is very little adjustment for this bracket in the vertical direction.
3- I see the left inner skirt is tightly forced at the forward point and is hitting the frame in such a way it is bending the inner skirt just in front of the sway bar bracket and is in tension. The right inner skirt is touching but not bending the skirt. Also, the right lower control arm inner corner is touching the radiator support.
4- I test fit the original fan shroud. The shroud sits on the frame horns just ahead of the sway bar brackets. The vertical bolt holes in the shroud do NOT line up with the radiator support mount holes. The shroud mount holes are apx 1/2" HIGHER that the mating holes in the radiator support.
I have my 1959 270 HP car here and measured a reference point to compare. I measured from the top face of the forward sway bar mount bolt on each side, to the top outward & rearward edge of the radiator support on both sides. I get 12 1/4" on my '59. I have a copper radiator. My hood closes fine on my 2x4 engine with repro air cleaner. Never had a issue with hood to engine clearance.
I measured the same points on the 1960 as it sits.......I get 11 3/4". This is a difference of 1/2" when compared to my '59. If I raise the 1960 body at the radiator support lower mount with 1/2" thickness worth of shims, the lower radiator support lower baffle reinforcement bracket will likely not fit. I am not sure if part of the issue is the reproduction radiator support.
So if you have a tape measure handy, next time your in the garage please measure from the top face of your forward front sway bar mount bolts to the top of you radiator support rearward edge on both sides.
Thanks.......Rich
p.s. I get some pictures when it's stops raining
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