Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

**Dick W.** · May 6, 2013, 08:35 AM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

Originally posted by Al Widdifield (55538)

1. Will today's fuels burn better with an electronic ignition vs stock point ignition on 1970 350/350. Just had rebuild and want most efficiency for a daily driver and road trips without detonation? The rebuilder suggested half avgas and half pump fuel. It is nearly impossible to get avgas. Is this common or just a rebuilder trying to get out of a warranty he offered if we don't use his suggested gas option?

2. How about Octane boosters - yes or no?

3. Rebuilder also suggested 30 wt non-detergent oil with a zinc additive. Is this common? Owner's Manual states: Do Not use non-detergent oil. Comments or suggestions?

1. There are as many opinions as there are members here. Point or electronic? Personally I prefer electronic, but that is an opinion.

2. Snake oil for the most part. I do occasionally use Techrol to clean the system

3. What rock has your engine builder been living under. The recommendation of using non-detergent oil was obsolete in the '60's. There are many threads about motor oil here, but the modern CJ motor oils contain more than enough ZDDP for your engine. Personally I use Shell Rotella but many here used Walmart house brand CJ rated oil.

**Michael W.** · May 6, 2013, 09:18 AM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

1. Stock ignition has no problem with today's gas and in fact far less than it had with the leaded gas available when your car was built. There is no reason on earth to use avgas or racing gas or any other witch's brew. Pump gas of the appropriate octane rating is all that's needed. You'll probably soon hear another dozen myths on this subject, beware.

2. Octane boosts are for the most part snake oil as Dick says and unnecessary anyway.

3. Agree fully with Dick.

**Terry M.** · May 6, 2013, 09:21 AM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

Originally posted by Al Widdifield (55538)

1. Will today's fuels burn better with an electronic ignition vs stock point ignition on 1970 350/350. Just had rebuild and want most efficiency for a daily driver and road trips without detonation? The rebuilder suggested half avgas and half pump fuel. It is nearly impossible to get avgas. Is this common or just a rebuilder trying to get out of a warranty he offered if we don't use his suggested gas option?

2. How about Octane boosters - yes or no?

3. Rebuilder also suggested 30 wt non-detergent oil with a zinc additive. Is this common? Owner's Manual states: Do Not use non-detergent oil. Comments or suggestions?

The only advantage of electronic ignition in a 1960s-70s era engine that is otherwise stock and is operated normally on the street is one doesn't have to change/adjust points. Now if you are repeatedly buzzing your engine to 7000 RPM, that is another matter -- however a properly tuned distributor will take that also.

I never had to use octane boosters in my 1970 LT1, but my experience is more than a decade old. I would try driving with the highest octane I could find, and if that is good drop down a grade at a time to see where the engine detonates and move up a notch from there. Elevation, summer/winter blend, brand of fuel, and the phase of the moon has a lot to do with it.

You really want detergent oil to keep any dirt in suspension in the oil. Finding non-detergent will be a challenge and your options as to brand and type will be severely limited anyway. Go with what is available. A lot of guys here favor diesel oil due to the higher ZDDP.

**Michael J.** · May 6, 2013, 09:46 AM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

The one thing that improved my '67 L71, and all my classic muscle cars, as far as most driver issues, is using ethanol free unleaded premium. Luckily, we have it around here and it is pretty common, many may not be so lucky.

But you can check it out here:

Pure-gas.org - ethanol-free gasoline in the U.S. and Canada

http://pure-gas.org/index.jsp

Pure-gas.org is the definitive web site listing stations that sell pure gasoline in the U.S. and Canada.

**Kurt G.** · May 7, 2013, 11:18 AM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

I have converted the ignition on my '72 base motor car back to points, ONLY because I'm looking for the max points in judging. The Petronic electronic system I had in it was great, with, with no points to mess with.

As for the gas, run premium pump gas in it. Mixing Avgas will work to increase your octane, but at close to 7 bucks a gallon, it's not worth it. The only octane booster that works, as i was told by a petroleum engineer, is putting mothballs in the tank. That leads to a whole new mess you don't want to even think about.

As for the oil, non-detergent? Like Dick said, what rock. Does your guy have large eye-brows and hairy knuckles. I've used She'll Rotella and have no problems

**Michael W.** · May 7, 2013, 11:50 AM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

Originally posted by Kurt Geis (43861)

As for the gas, run premium pump gas in it. Mixing Avgas will work to increase your octane, but at close to 7 bucks a gallon, it's not worth it.

Nor is there any need. Your '72 was built to run on regular (87) octane so even using super (91-93) is overkill.

**Stuart F.** · May 7, 2013, 02:11 PM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

Unfortunately, the only non-ethanol gas I can find localy is 90 octane. So, I still use Max Lead 2000 for a hypothetical boost to 100 octane, and still with my advertised 11.25 to 1 CR, it works good for me. No spark knock, and the engine runs cool. To keep from changing plugs so often, I have the Pertronix II ignition which runs full 12 volt input. Some of us drive our cars as well as show and want redline capable performance all year long here in Florida. I don't like to tinker too often or bust my knuckles at my age. I had my fun with frequent points and plug changes back in the day, and I just want to enjoy my retirement away from the cold Wisconsin winters.

Stu Fox

**Michael J.** · May 7, 2013, 05:04 PM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

I hear 'ya Stu. 90 octane works fine at my altitude (7000-8000 feet) for my L71, but I swore off Pertronix after two sets just quit working without warning and I was stranded. I swore never again and anyway I understand points, electrical black boxes I don't.

**Timothy B.** · May 8, 2013, 04:59 AM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

Michael,

I installed a breakerless SE in my 67 300hp distributor. I am very satisfied and I like the idea it's designed to work with the original resistor but I believe it will also work with full 12 volts. I keep points just in case there is a problem but it's a very simple design.

With the Petronics my friend used, we could not time the car because I guess the multiple sparks made it impossible to set initial timing. I never did figure it out unless there were some serious ground issues with old wiring. With a old Mallory unit that he replaced, the initial timing set up fine.

**Stuart F.** · May 8, 2013, 05:33 AM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

Tim;

What model Pertronics did your friend install? My Model II times very well. Perhaps he has the newer model with the new features - believe it was adjustable dwell and/or rev limiter (?) not sure which. As for the voltage input; I still use the resistor in the circuit (visual), but jumper it around the back so it's not so obvious to the casual observer. The II model requires use of the Pertronics coil as well which is not so easy to disguise except for with the shielding in place.

Stu Fox

**Timothy B.** · May 8, 2013, 09:05 AM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

Hi Stu,

I hope you are feeling well. This unit was the Petronics III and it did have the rev limiter, my memory tells me it was adjustable with a screw.

**Mike F.** · May 11, 2013, 10:42 AM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

Originally posted by Al Widdifield (55538)

1. Will today's fuels burn better with an electronic ignition vs stock point ignition on 1970 350/350. Just had rebuild and want most efficiency for a daily driver and road trips without detonation? The rebuilder suggested half avgas and half pump fuel. It is nearly impossible to get avgas. Is this common or just a rebuilder trying to get out of a warranty he offered if we don't use his suggested gas option?

2. How about Octane boosters - yes or no?

3. Rebuilder also suggested 30 wt non-detergent oil with a zinc additive. Is this common? Owner's Manual states: Do Not use non-detergent oil. Comments or suggestions?

Al,

I recently had my 350/350 rebuilt as well. (I have various threads on here about it.) I'd like to talk to you about your rebuild, I'll PM you my phone #. Give me a call sometime.

Mike

**Stephen B.** · May 14, 2013, 06:40 AM

Re: Point Ignition vs Electronic Ignition

I installed under the cap electronic ignition in my '70 350/350 driver 20 years ago. The engine seems to run the same as compared to the breaker point system; however, I no longer have to deal with occasionally setting points for proper idle, etc.