C4: A Dash Component "Let the Smoke Out"

[Bob D.]

My '88 'Vert had been idling in the driveway for about 5 minutes. When I got back into the car something electrical in the interior had burned up (noticed the typical "burnt up electrical component" smell). Radio and heater control no longer light up, but when I click the radio on and off I can still hear a relay clicking. Fuses are good.

Before all of this happened the dash "Volts" reading was at about 11.2-12V, but voltage at the alternator and battery was 14V or so. The radio had trouble staying on, and even lost its settings once, like it had REALLY low volts.

It's funny that I would lose both the radio and the heater control. Has anyone had a component in the interior burn up? I'm in the process of ripping things apart to find the culprit.

Thanks in advance,
Bob

[Bob D.]

Re: C4: A Dash Component "Let the Smoke Out"

For future reference, here are my findings: The low voltage problem was caused by a loose connection behind the battery. The "Jump Start Junction Block" is there, and one of the smaller red wires from the Battery "+" terminal goes to it. With the meter connected at the fusebox I started wiggling harnesses. When I wiggled behind the battery I found the problem. I tightened the nut and the voltage came up solid.

The radio and "C68 Electronic A/C Control" came back to life when I found that the "CTSY/CLK" fuse had blown (either from flaky voltage or a wet cigarette lighter). You would think from its name that this fuse just powered the courtesy lights and the clock. Silly you. It powers about 10 things under the dash, including the radio and heater-A/C control.

Next thing? With the dash field-stripped I've decided to replace the Blose audio system with a Kenwood/Polk Audio cost-effective alternative. The components come from Crutchfield tomorrow. Speaker wires are run and the old Blose door speaker boxes are ready to accep the 6-1/2" speakers. 6x9s are going in the back, and the popping/dead speaker issues will be a thing of the past.

Thanks to all that responded to this post. (Just kidding...)

Bob

[Patrick N.]

Re: C4: A Dash Component "Let the Smoke Out"

Thanks Bob, good to know. Let me know what you think of the speakers once you get them in. My 88 is do for some improvements in the sound dept as well. The Bose system ain't cheap.

[Bob D.]

Re: C4: A Dash Component "Let the Smoke Out"

Thanks Bob, good to know. Let me know what you think of the speakers once you get them in. My 88 is do for some improvements in the sound dept as well. The Bose system ain't cheap.

Will do, Patrick. I'm packaging the speakers into the existing boxes today. I'm taking pics, but probably won't do a "how to" unless someone requests. Except for details, this topic has been covered a number of times.

[Bob D.]

Re: C4: A Dash Component "Let the Smoke Out"

The audio system is in and I am very pleased. I'll never go anywhere else but Crutchfield to buy audio stuff again. When you call the tech line a real person actually answers! Their prices were awesome. The sales guy tipped me off to a unit that was on sale and saved me a few more bucks. So for $322 I installed the Kenwood KDC-352U receiver, Polk Audio DB651 front speakers (6.5") and Polk Audio DXi690 rear speakers (6" x 9"). Nothing fancy, but more than adequate. The install wiring and brackets for the 'Vette were free. The USP port is awesome for the iPhone. No Bluetooth, but you can get that in a little better receiver if you would like, or add it as an accessory. In my opinion, my Bose system never sounded this good.

The 6x9s fit right in. I ran the wires down the passenger side by lifting the carpet off of the door sill (a few screws). It was a little trying to get the door speaker wires from the dash to the door, but I just used an electrician's fishtape and pulled them through.

Getting the DB651s into the original Bose boxes was a little bit of a challenge, but not horrible. I cut the front out and made an adapter out of 3/16" plywood, but the speaker was too deep. All I had to do, however, was grind the plastic ribs out of the back of the enclosure, and I was good to go. Since the speaker magnet barely touched the enclosure at the back I put a small piece of stick-on padding there to eliminate vibration. The next problem came where the tweeter stuck out too far, interfering with the stock speaker grille. I just made an 8" x 8" "picture frame" (6-1/2" x 6-1/2" opening) out of 1/4" plywood and spaced the entire box back. I then ground the non-exposed side of the speaker grille to fit. Perfect. If you want an easier install, buy the DB651s "shallow" speaker and take the 15 watt or so reduction in power.

If there's a downside, the Bose door speaker grille has a plastic bar that runs right in front of the tweeter. This is no problem with the offset 4" bose speakers, but I'm sure has some effect on the aftermarket ones. No big deal. I can't hear the highs anymore anyway!

-Bob