67' taking running gear off frame

[Dave K.]

Currently have body off frame and motor is removed. Is there any tension left in the front springs? Taking running gear off this weekend and I don't want to kill myself with a spring flying up.

[Gary R.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

Yes still under tension front and rear. Be careful

[Jim D.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

Yes still under tension front and rear. Be careful

Yup, and by removing the body and engine (weight), the job of dis-assembly will be much harder as the frame will have to be anchored down in order to remove the tension from the springs.

[Keith B.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

Not unless you don't mind your lower a-arm flying down and hitting the floor with spring flowing it. It can be done just watch wear your hands and feet are at all times

[William L.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

Dave
Here is a article I wrote for an easy way to do your rear spring http://stlouisncrs.org/news_files/St...r_Oct_2011.pdf look for "Relieving Tension".
Bill

[Dave K.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

Thx for the info guys. I was going to work on it tomorrow by myself...but now it has me thinking???? Any ideas for the front springs?
Dave

[Timothy B.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

Dave,

If you search the archives there are very good ideas regarding removal and installation of the front springs using a long threaded rod. Most of your questions will be answered because most of us have been through the same process.

Safety first always.

[Kenneth S.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

For the front spring you really need to use one of these. Some auto parts stores rent them. Ken

[Gary R.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

The internal thread rod and plate will work the best. I made mine from Acme threaded rod to carry the load better.

[Scott M.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

Acme rod is of course the best but harder to find. Some 5/8" threaded rod and grade 8 nuts and washers work fine for the top, have to use a piece of angle or plate steel to span the lower hole in the bottom "A" arm, just use lots of grease on the rod. Insert through the top shock mounting hole and exit the bottom spring pocket.

[Gary R.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

I used the common threaded rod as well, it lasted one removal before the threads rolled so that might be an option for a 1-2 shot deal. I bought the acme rod and nuts from McMaster-Carr cost about $30 for everything I think and I have used it several times works so much better.

[Dave K.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

Scott,
I'm not sure why you need a piece of plate steel to cover the hole in the bottom A arm. Don't you put the threaded rodthru the top shock mount hole and then thread the hooks onto the bottom portion of the rod so the hooks are hook on the spring near the bottom of the spring just above the bottom A arm? Then put the washers and nut on the top of th e rod and start tightening so the hooks that are at the bottom of the spring start to compress the spring up into the top A arm. Once the spring is compressed enough so the bottom of the spring is barely touching the bottom A arm then one can remove the bottom A arm. Once removed then loosen the nut so the spring can release back down. This is all new to me so pardon the ignorance if I'm looking at this completely wrong.
Dave

[Scott M.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

Dave, my reply and I assume Gary's is in regards to making your own compressor, if you use the store bought one as shown with the hooks that is a different story.

[Norris W.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

Scott,
I'm not sure why you need a piece of plate steel to cover the hole in the bottom A arm. Don't you put the threaded rodthru the top shock mount hole and then thread the hooks onto the bottom portion of the rod so the hooks are hook on the spring near the bottom of the spring just above the bottom A arm? Then put the washers and nut on the top of th e rod and start tightening so the hooks that are at the bottom of the spring start to compress the spring up into the top A arm. Once the spring is compressed enough so the bottom of the spring is barely touching the bottom A arm then one can remove the bottom A arm. Once removed then loosen the nut so the spring can release back down. This is all new to me so pardon the ignorance if I'm looking at this completely wrong.
Dave

You don't use the hooks. Just put a short piece of plate down there. I have mine done with two holes drilled for the shock lower bolt pattern so nothing moves around and then of course the larger center hole for the rod. It's also helpful to use the type of rachet and socket that's hollow so the rod can go all the way through it rather than having to use a wrench. One other way is to weld one of the nuts at one end of the rod so it can be turned with a rachet or air wrench and then hold the other end with a wrench. I've used old cheap hardware store threaded rod and grade 5 nuts for all these years and have never had one strip. Using plenty of grease on the threads seems to make the difference.

[John H.]

Re: 67' taking running gear off frame

Here are a couple more variations of the rod-through-the-spring home-made compressor; simple and effective.


FrtSpringCompress.jpgFrtSpringCompress2.jpg