c2 Power Brake Booster Push Rod Fell Out--How Do I Fix?

[Paul S.]

I'm in the midst of my power brake conversion on my 67, and finished dry fitting the booster and master cylinder to the car.

When I took the master cylinder back off, the rubber dust boot ended up pulling out the brake booster pin (the one that pushes the master cylinder piston). The end which goes into the booster looks like it's supposed to have something that attaches it to the brake pedal clevis pin, but never having dealt with the boosters before, I don't know and now I'm worried. It seems like that rod was attached when I was installing the booster. It sure didn't act like it was just sitting in the booster and held in place by the booster's dust boot.

My question now is, when I put the master cylinder back on what do I do about the brake booster pin--the booster I have is a new one purchased from CSSB, Inc. (the reproduction booster with the 5867 Delco part number stamped on the rear).

Do I just push it back into the booster from the engine compartment? Do I need to take the booster apart (I'm not even sure the reproduction booster come apart) and attach the pin to the brake pedal clevis and pin, and if so, how is that done?

The saga of this project continues...thanks for the help.

[Bill C.]

Re: c2 Power Brake Booster Push Rod Fell Out--How Do I Fix?

Paul,
You can just reinstall the pin by pushing it back in place until its seated, it is not attached. If your repo booster came with two different length pins, the correct one is the longer one, assuming your m/c has the correct deep hole piston.

Remove the boot from the back of the master cylinder, its not used in the power brake application.

In 67 the same 1" bore size master is used for both standard and power applications, they were stamped with a "DC" identifying the internal piston application, so they probably stick the boots on all of the masters with the DC stamp, in later years the DC is for standard brakes only.

The same casting was used for other GM applications, but used different pistons to get the proper timing for front/rear brake application, otherwise known as proportioning, I suspect this is the reason many after market conversion kits come with an additional proportioning valve as the masters do not have the correct pistons. Many confuse the brake warning lamp switch as a proportioning valve, which it is not, its purpose is only to block off a failed front or rear fluid circuit and turn on the warning lamp on the dash.

In the case of 1967 J-56 HD brake option only, a different casting is used and it is stamped with a PG identifier, again PG being used in later years as the P/B only master.

Most aftermarket suppliers always get this wrong as its 67 only that is different. Good Luck, you will love the power brakes!

Bill

[Paul S.]

Re: c2 Power Brake Booster Push Rod Fell Out--How Do I Fix?

Thanks Bill. I recalled after I did it that the MC dust boot was superfluous and was not happy to see the push rod come off. When I opened the box, I just stuck it on. Won't do that again