1960 Dash Pad Installation

[Dick G.]

I have my dash pad properly trimmed. I am ready to glue her on. I've got the old articles of Driveline. I've watched the Paragon videos. I have Not seen Al Knochs video. Paragon's video shows the installer applying adhesive to the cars fiberglass dash. Now, Do they also apply adhesive to the dash Pad itself? I don't belive they do. I would be afraid the dash pad would get stuck somewhere like halfway on and then its too late. The only section of the dash pad, where I'd apply a second coat, is on the nose of the dash pad, above the courtesy light. Unlike, Joe Calcagno's Driveline article, there are no retaining straps holding the nose in place while the glue sets up. No waiting. The installer sticks her on and continues to work.
How does Al Knoch glue the Dash/Pad? One poster on CF says he only applies adhesive on the exposed edges and the speaker hole. This sounds much less risky of losing a dash.
Any personal experiences appreciated.
Thanks
DG

[Richard M.]

Re: 1960 Dash Pad Installation

Dick,

I used a AK pad. I had to trim much foam behind the cluster and dash insert. I have not seen the AK video.

I only apply contact cement to the area at the leading edge around the entire perimeter under the windshield. On a '59 I recently did (without a speaker bezel), I decided not to glue that area around the speaker either. With glue in that area I feel there is more risk if the pad isn't positioned properly.

The items below will hold much of the pad in place.

windshield frame(over the glued area)
instrument cluster
kick panels(upper edges)
end caps
center console upper trim(below courtesy light)
defroster bezels
dash mirror
heater cover extension under pkg tray
right side dash insert assembly
grab bar end caps(carefully trim this area)
speaker bezel(60-62)

Rich
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[Dick G.]

Re: 1960 Dash Pad Installation

Rich
Thanks for your reply.
Your dash looks great.
Your method is similar to a post I read on CF. I have Al Knoch's adhesive in a can. I think I will use a similar method like yours.
I ground down the corners of the handrail bracket's mounting plate. This is the area that slips through the slot of the dash to be screwed down.This area is way too tight and too easy to tear or stretch the vinyl.
Thanks
Dick

[Richard M.]

Re: 1960 Dash Pad Installation

Dick,

Yes the area at grab bar brackets can create a nightmare if not trimmed carefully. The other problem is installing the dash insert when the brackets are installed.

This is my procedure.....I'm sure there are other methods but this works for me.

I have both grab bar brackets installed and make trims around them. When I trim the vinyl I use a pointed x-acto knife and make a "round" cut where it fits at the bracket horizontal extension. Square cuts have a tendency to tear at the corners. I then remove pad and the inboard bracket, leaving the outboard bracket installed.

After the pad is set in place before glue, I temporarily install the cluster and the dash insert. I remove ALL foam from the back of the pad at the full perimeter of the cluster. I also cut the vinyl horizontally and leave about 1" down behind the cluster. Some has to be removed behind the insert but not too much.

For the insert, I used the "puller" idea I got from Wilcox Corvette....link here. I used a ground down 1/4-20 threaded coupler(apx 1 1/2" long) at the center stud, along with another 1/4-20 stud threaded into the coupler. Once pulled in with multiple washers and nut, I attach the outer 2 nuts on the insert studs. Then remove the threaded coupler from the center and replace with the nut. This minimizes the damage to the thin aluminum face of the insert, as you don't push on it.

Once I'm happy with the fit of the cluster and insert, I take it all apart again. Sometimes you need to trim more foam from the back of the pad at both cluster side and insert side to get it right. If the pad is glued in before foam t r i m m i n g, it's obviously a problem. You also want to trim any excess foam at the front perimeter corners of the pad(under windshield) as this can be a problem too.

Speaker screen. In my case(1959-no bezel) I installed the speaker screen under the pad but above the dash. 1960 up uses the bezel surround so you'll have another step, but better after it's glued to help locate in your case. Just make sure the screen oval in the pad is properly centered in the dash speaker screen hole before glue up.

After all other checks I fit and glue the pad at the front edge. Then locate the defroster bezel stud holes and install. Mark the openings and trim out. I then use a colored permanent marker to "color" the foam edges. Then install the bezels and defroster vents. Don't overtighten!

Now the dash insert is installed using the "puller" mentioned earlier. After that is installed the left grab bar bracket gets installed. I use 2 "shoulder" bolts. This allows use of a socket & extension to install, carefully fitting & tightening the bolts under the upper edge of the vinyl at the bracket location. This is why it's important to trim the vinyl into a round shape at the corners so it doesn't tear.

I don't try to install the insert with both grab bar brackets installed. Some say it can be done but to me it's a risk to scratch the dash pad with the mounting studs.

I then install the cluster and grab bar. I wrap strong masking tape around the grab bar ends to compress the foam(sticky side up down so no-stick to bar, then more sticky side down over that to glide), then slide the chrome end caps on the bar ends. Install the bar and locate the end caps and attach with trim screws and remove the "safety" tape. Tr i m m i n g around the tops of the kick panels and upper center trim is best if you temporarily fit and carefully mark. I install the upper center trim and use a knife to cut afterward. You can see edges of the vinyl only if you look under there. Trim at the upper kick panels is tight so use caution there. Epoxy fill any enlarged screw holes for the kicks before pad installation. Tr i m m i n g the vinyl under the cluster is not critical.

Your dash end caps can be tricky too. 59 just uses a trim plate. You may want to test fit yours before glue also. Carefully trim away foam and vinyl as needed to install. Also note the screw holes in the fiberglass may be enlarged so it may be wise to fill in with epoxy ahead of time and redrill later.

This is a time consuming and difficult task, but work slowly and test fit often for best results.

I guess I rambled enough but I kept thinking of things as I wrote.

Rich


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[Dick G.]

Re: 1960 Dash Pad Installation

I am having difficulty doing a trial fit of the grab bar.
It appears I must remove some of the foam/rubber on the outer ends of the grab bar because as soon as I install the 2 outer screws which hold the bar to its outer brackets, the chrome endcaps cannot fit over the outer bracket.
Am I correct that I must remove some of the bars foam on its outer ends in order for the chrome end caps to slide into position??
My old grab bar is in such poor condition, its difficult to tell what was done. That said all the foam is gone on the outer ends about 4 inches from each end on the old grab bar.
Thanks
Dick

[Dennis C.]

Re: 1960 Dash Pad Installation

Dick,

Yes, you must expose the bar from the grab bar before trying to mount it. Once mounted and looking underneath, you see the support bracket and mounting screws.

Dennis

[Dick G.]

Re: 1960 Dash Pad Installation

Oversized grab bar.
I had to shave off considerable amounts of foam on the ends of the bar, (about 4 Inches lengthwise both sides) in order to slide the endcaps onto the bar. So I finally achieved sliding them on up to where the stitching begins. Now its still too tight. I then thought maybe I can slide the vinyl sleeve inward on both sides allowing the caps to move further inward temporarily. I screwed the bar in place onto the mounting brackets. Now the End caps will Not slide to the outside running into the mounting bracket because of the added thickness of the bracket. All the foam on the bottom of the bar, where the mounting brackets attach, has been removed. Metal to metal on the bottom.

Can someone tell me, will your chrome end caps slide freely over the grab bar with its vinyl in place, Without any shaving of the foam? If so what brand are you using.

Thanks
DG

[Richard M.]

Re: 1960 Dash Pad Installation

Dick, I used a new Al Knoch grab bar and did not have to remove any foam at all. It fit fine. If yours was a early repro or previously "re-foamed" and recovered by someone else it may be the problem.

edit-add......However, the foam has to be compressed to get the end caps positioned. That's why I use tape to compress the foam then remove it after getting the caps installed. You have to be careful not to scratch the soft vinyl on the bar. You could also tightly wrap the bar with some heavy gauge plastic wrap.

Rich