Does anyone have picture of 67 power brake lines where the rear line goes up from the frame into the engine compartment and the two brake lines come together before terminating into the low brake fluid warning switch (sometimes incorrectly called a proportioning valve)?
I'm in the process of converting mine from standard to power brakes and have the front to rear line in, but in the process (long story) I "lost" the bend and curve where the rear line angles up from the frame, into the engine compartment, butts nicely and is clipped to the other front line, and terminates at the low brake fluid warning junction box.
Hope this makes sense. I've got a mental picture of how it was, the 67 AIM which is "fuzzy" and numerous "catalog" photos of the brake line with the shipping bend in it, which isn't helping me in my garage as I try to figure out which way to rebend the line while it's on the car.
Also, while I'm at it, I bought my brake lines from CSSB Inc. and the shortest line of the bunch is the one at the LH junction block that goes out about 2" and does a 90 degree curve down to the flex hose fitting.
For reasons that make me nuts, the line is a bit too long (literally, it sticks out about half the diameter of the line too far which makes it impossible to make the connection down into the rubber brake hose). From what I can see online everyone seems to be selling the exact same part--the line looks like a short "L" , and I'm guessing all of them are the same length.
The trouble is the TBW line is so short, when I try to hand bend a curve in it, it's not going to go squarely into the brake hose.
Anyone else run into this with replacement brake line kits, and how did you resolve other than fabricating a new slightly shorter version of the L line (and I'd have to find a brake shop to do that for me)?
The irony is, if I leave the LH junction block loose (e.g., not bolted down), all three lines would happily attach to the block. That did not seem to be the best way, and drilling more holes to move the junction block toward the engine, is problematic because it is sitting about half way over the existing bolt and block alignment holes.
I'm in the process of converting mine from standard to power brakes and have the front to rear line in, but in the process (long story) I "lost" the bend and curve where the rear line angles up from the frame, into the engine compartment, butts nicely and is clipped to the other front line, and terminates at the low brake fluid warning junction box.
Hope this makes sense. I've got a mental picture of how it was, the 67 AIM which is "fuzzy" and numerous "catalog" photos of the brake line with the shipping bend in it, which isn't helping me in my garage as I try to figure out which way to rebend the line while it's on the car.
Also, while I'm at it, I bought my brake lines from CSSB Inc. and the shortest line of the bunch is the one at the LH junction block that goes out about 2" and does a 90 degree curve down to the flex hose fitting.
For reasons that make me nuts, the line is a bit too long (literally, it sticks out about half the diameter of the line too far which makes it impossible to make the connection down into the rubber brake hose). From what I can see online everyone seems to be selling the exact same part--the line looks like a short "L" , and I'm guessing all of them are the same length.
The trouble is the TBW line is so short, when I try to hand bend a curve in it, it's not going to go squarely into the brake hose.
Anyone else run into this with replacement brake line kits, and how did you resolve other than fabricating a new slightly shorter version of the L line (and I'd have to find a brake shop to do that for me)?
The irony is, if I leave the LH junction block loose (e.g., not bolted down), all three lines would happily attach to the block. That did not seem to be the best way, and drilling more holes to move the junction block toward the engine, is problematic because it is sitting about half way over the existing bolt and block alignment holes.
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