OK, we lowered body on frame with new shims in the exact amounts taken off (I think). Free disassembly help as I was not home but stuff was labeled. Car seemed to see-saw on birdcage and replacement bolts would not reach some body nuts. So we just re aligned from sratch. Do I bend the car with original shim count (120 cars a day produced) or go with my re alignment which the doors and seam lines love. We are talking about chunking 7 shims at passenger # two mount to get this car back on frame. Body has been on the lift for two months while all frame/ motor stuff done. Can it change??? Stephen
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Re: Another last rookie 1965 body mount question
Stephen --
I found this document on The Mid-Atlantic Region's website that was orginally written by Noland Adams on how to shim a C2 body.
It was originally a Word document so I converted it to a PDF so it would download faster.
In it Noland states:
There was a gauge used at the St. Louis assembly plant to measure variations in the frame. Color coded stripes were placed near each body mount to help figure out the final shim count for each body mount. These stripes were only a starting guideline. Due to inaccuracies in the gauge or variations in the body, shims were often added or subtracted as required.
This is the first I've heard the stripes or I call them hash marks were only a starting point. Perhaps John would know more.
I'm curious is the car a Coupe or Roadster?
Mike -
Re: Another last rookie 1965 body mount question
Thanks Mike. That document validates exactly what we did. Doors stayed on car during restoration as body paint was good. We used string and the body grid info in the assembly guide and started from scratch. The seatbelt frame boss hung the fuel line during lowering, but we found it and fixed it. This was my first time so I learned a lot. This board certainly helped. Now we will start on bumpers. Thanks, Stephen
PS Car is RoadsterComment
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