I want to have my windshield trim polished and I saw in the forum a company named Central that was recommended. I cannot find the thread again and need their contact. Any other additional recommendations?
Stainless Polishing
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Re: Stainless Polishing
I recommend Bob Mayle. He normally has a backlog, but does excellent repair and polishing. Link,to his website below
Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)- Top
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Re: Stainless Polishing
I'm considering polishing the trim myself. I have read many posts regarding this subject and the concern is the Flash Chrome. I understand all stainless was FC'd and to polish I will have to remove. I would not polish myself and than look for someone to FC after polishing. Do the various polishers that I have seen in Posts FC after polishing? What experience has other members had polishing themselves and not FC'ing?- Top
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Re: Stainless Polishing
I only had my trim repaired/restored and polished. If you want it rechromed, you will need to send it to someone who does the flash chroming. You can probably find a plater that does both the polishing and chroming.Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)- Top
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Re: Stainless Polishing
Go for it Walter... if you don't have a buffer, $75 will get you a decent one at Harbor Freight. Eastwood has all the wheels and rouge you need. You will need to strip the F/C. It almost imposible to buff it off and get good results. Dilutted muratic acid will do this very quickly. You will want to send it out to have the F/C put back on when the buffing is finished to keep it from oxidizing.
Take it slow and wear a good fitting pair of leather gloves. You will find it can become rewarding.
tc- Top
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Re: Stainless Polishing
Walter, there are several platers that will flash chrome it. Advanced Plating is another plater. You may wish to call Paul's and Advanced, and perhaps some others to see what the difference is if they polish it or you polish it. I was'nt able to determine from Bob Mayle's website if he sends it out to be chromed or not. You might want to call him too.
Stainless polishing is one thing that I've only messed with a little. I have'nt done an entire car. I intend to buy another polisher and try it, and if I don't like what I'm left with I'll throw it in a box and send it to the plater.
Paul- Top
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Re: Stainless Polishing
I have decided to polish trim myself. I found a kit from Eastwood for $100 that includes a 1/2 HP motor with 6" buffing wheels and supplies. Does anyone have any experience with this kit and would motor be the appropiate fit for my job?- Top
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Re: Stainless Polishing
How did it work out for you?- Top
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Re: Stainless Polishing
Walter, I have not used the particular Eastwood buffing motor, but I don't see why it wouldn't work. I have the larger Eastwood buffer that uses the 10" wheels and I also do some buffing just using my electric drill in a vice. If you have never done this, the key is that if you have scratches, the buffer probably will not take them out. I use a series of wet/dry sand paper starting at 400, then 600, 800, 1000, 1500, then finish with 2000 then buff.Last edited by Donald H.; February 9, 2014, 03:14 PM.Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)- Top
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Re: Stainless Polishing
I have that job to do myself and I understand that it costs a lot to send it out to have it done. One of our local chapter members runs his own business doing work like this and he says that the key to wheel buffing is to use a small diameter buff wheel so that it doesn't overheat the trim and to keep the piece moving while buffing. Use leather gloves and face protection in case the wheel grabs the piece and slings it towards you. You might also get some junk pieces at the boneyard to practice on before trying it on your precious trim pieces.Keith MacRae
NCRS #36692
New Mexico Chapter
1960 290HP FI
2013 427 Convertible
Shade tree mechanic and
B-52 pilot extraordinaire- Top
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Re: Stainless Polishing
Flash Chromed?? I had no idea stainless was plated, I thought it was just polished? Is that just earlier cars or does that apply to say...'73 era stainless. So I don't get it, why polish it yourself if it needs to be flash chromed by a shop? What am I missing? Unless it's just the satisfaction of doing part of the process yourself. (completely understandable)
1973 LS-4 454 Coupe owned 24 years!
1996 LT-4 CE Coupe owned 6 months- Top
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Re: Stainless Polishing
Flash Chromed?? I had no idea stainless was plated, I thought it was just polished? Is that just earlier cars or does that apply to say...'73 era stainless. So I don't get it, why polish it yourself if it needs to be flash chromed by a shop? What am I missing? Unless it's just the satisfaction of doing part of the process yourself. (completely understandable)
1973 LS-4 454 Coupe owned 24 years!
1996 LT-4 CE Coupe owned 6 months
I believe that up through at least the C2 generation all the stainless trim had a flash chrome application.Last edited by Donald H.; February 15, 2014, 08:27 AM.Don Harris
Current: 67 convertible Marina Blue L79
Former: 60 Red/Red, 2x4, 245hp (Regional and National Top Flight 2013), 66 coupe Nassau Blue, L79 (Chapter and Regional Top Flight 2017)- Top
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Re: Stainless Polishing
There is no such thing as "Flash Chromed" stainless from any GM plant. This is just a rumor started by some novice or a joke! GM was in this business for profit! Just ask yourself why GM would use stainless at a much higher cost than plain steel and then "Flash Chrome" it!
I have polished many sets of stainless for C-1's and C-2's and have yet to find one single piece of stainless with chrome.
If you feel the need to "Flash Chrome" stainless you will find that chrome does not adhere well to stainless and usually cracks and pops off rather quickly!
Lets talk about the chrome process for a moment:
All bumpers and exterior brightwork is prepared first by stripping to the bare steel sanding, buffing and then applying copper. The copper is then sanded and buffed. Nickel is then applied at a very high cost relative to the chrome being much cheaper. After the nickel is applied the part is then "Chromed for approximately 15 seconds. If you call that "Flash Chromed" then ALL bumpers done by a competent Chrome Shop are "Flash Chromed". If prepared properly before the chrome is applied there is very little chrome on the bumper. If you will notice the best bumpers show no flash or balls of chrome on the back or along the edges.
For you "Flash Chrome" people. Go and visit a chrome shop and ask the owner to take time to show you thru the chrome process.
Now we will return to normal programming!
JR- Top
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