64 Wiring Bulkhead connector (probably all C2)

[Larry M.]

There are four snap tabs under the hood, two each for engine and headlight harnesses. On my car the top tab is broken off for the light harness - that way when I bought it on a 38000 mile car.

Looking at pictures and the AIM (I don't want to disassemble at this point unless I know where I'm going) it appears to me the bulkhead connector is trapped between the fuseblock and firewall inside the car and there are probably no connections between the fuse block and bulkhead connector, but could someone verify this for me. Getting the connector out entails working with the firewall insulation it appears, but I'll learn that when and if I get into it.

You can buy the connector for big bucks which I'm sure is set high to push you to buy a new harness, but my car doesn't need that yet. It comes with 16 pin connectors which I'm sure hoping I would avoid using. I'd hope to get the existing wires out of my connector and snap them into the new one - but I might break a tab off in the process.

Does my assesment seem on track or am I missing a big stumbling block??

Does anyone have a used wiring harness they'd be willing to cut the bulkhead connector off with a few of inches of wire for the leads and sell?

[Gene M.]

Re: 64 Wiring Bulkhead connector (probably all C2)

Larry,
I always restore the original wire harness. All my cars have restored harness. Your assessment on removal of the pins in the connector is good. A tiny jeweler's screw driver work fine to release the tang. I source used harness at places like Carlisle at cheap $ prices in past years as most people will not bother with them. The cost of the repop harness is not remotely reasonable and insulation colors are not correct. These errors and others stand out like a sore thumb on the show field if ya know what a real harness looks like.

[Richard M.]

Re: 64 Wiring Bulkhead connector (probably all C2)

Is this the part of the connector you're talking about? It mounts to the back of the fusebox. The condition of your terminals will determine if they need replacement. However shortening the wires could be a problem. You could just swap out the plastic connector if the terminals are ok, replacing 1 at a time. They are very delicate so be careful to remove them. There is a very small tang that can break easily, as it has to be re-bent out before insertion.

Rich

Zip E-802



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[William C.]

Re: 64 Wiring Bulkhead connector (probably all C2)

The terminals were named "twinlock" as the terminal was identical both on the IP side and the engine side of the harness. The major trick to unlock them from the plastic is that the lock tangs are on the sides of the terminal rather than on the top as was the cas in the "56" series terminals used on 1/4 inch blades. A fine pick can be inserted along the sides of the terminal releasing the locks without damage to the terminal in most cases.

[Richard M.]

Re: 64 Wiring Bulkhead connector (probably all C2)

Good info Bill. I repaired some of these some time ago but forgot they had tabs on both sides.

Found a good picture here.....http://www.pcsconnectors.com/twin_lock_terminals.aspx


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[Larry M.]

Re: 64 Wiring Bulkhead connector (probably all C2)

From original poster. Thanks for all the help. I spoke with Steve Hack (Eastern Corvettes) today and he told me there were leads from the bulkhead connector to the fuse block so I understand that shortening the leads would be an issue. What this tells me is that I need to get a used harness with both peices to be in a position to fix any issue I might create (e.g. breaking a tab, etc.).

Does anyone have a used harness they'd let go reasonable?