1968 ignition shield cover question

[Russ S.]

I just bought a "NOS" Gm cover 3923972 but the plastic rivets are not clear but the inside plastic is clear (see pictures). This appears reversed from the original. Is this really a correct cover? Was the GM replacement different from the original?

thanks

[Dale C.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

I'll see if I can find a better picture, and yes the originals did have a clear button and opaque inside plastic. Also, the strap that makes contact with the air cleaner is unique, top down for 390 and up from bottom for 3 dueces.
Dale


IMG_5176.jpg

[Joe L.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

I just bought a "NOS" Gm cover 3923972 but the plastic rivets are not clear but the inside plastic is clear (see pictures). This appears reversed from the original. Is this really a correct cover? Was the GM replacement different from the original?

thanks

Russ-----


These covers were available in SERVICE for quite some time (although the box for the one pictured would imply this was a rather early piece). In any event, features like the color of the rivets could well have changed over time. There's absolutely no guarantee that details like that will remain constant over time. It's even possible that such a feature could have varied for the pieces used originally in PRODUCTION (although I can't say that with certainty for these covers).

[Mark D.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

If that piece has the 'typical' draw lines in it, you can find an original insulator and re-rivet it using clear rivets or used original rivets. In the configuration pictured, it would lose points during judging.

[Mark D.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

I purchased an NOS service unit (like yours) and then attached an original insulator and new clear rivets...

[Paul O.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

Has the appearance of a reproduction part in a old over the counter box. Old boxes are being sold all the time to fool the unsuspecting buyer. Just my thoughts from what I see.

[Mark D.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

That well could be Paul but, the service lids did in fact have opaque rivets and clear insulator. They also had draw lines whereas the repops don't.

[Paul O.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

Mark

I agree but to me the Chrome seems to be very heavy on top but it could just be the angle and flash causing that. Always better to see it in person to make that determination.

[Joe L.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

Mark

I agree but to me the Chrome seems to be very heavy on top but it could just be the angle and flash causing that. Always better to see it in person to make that determination.

Paul-----


The underside of it appears to me to have been in a box for a long while.

[William H.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

Does anyone know who sells the clear rivets and a ground clip for a 3x2? Thanks for any direction.

[Mark D.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

The fellow is on the Corvette Forum and, I believe, his first name is Buddy. I hear rumor the ones he is producing now vary from original. That may or may not be true so, check it out. Richard Fortier had some tri-power clips.

Russ...if the quality of the chrome on your shielding is higher quality than original, it will take a deduction..if ya give a rip.

[Russ S.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

I decided to return the part. My cover looks more original but someone replaced the plastic rivets with metal. I will just replace them with Buddy's. I just got some but don't know how to tell if they vary from original since I dont have original to compare to.

Buddy Maughon [maughon@bellsouth.net]

[Russ S.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

Mark, how did you attach the clear rivets? Are they glued on or did you melt them in some way. If melted how did you get such a neat finish.

[Mark D.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

My buddy, Stan Falenski, did that for me. I know he heats them.

[Russ S.]

Re: 1968 ignition shield cover question

Thanks. If Stan has any pointer I would take them. It looks like the rivets are cut off just above the washer and a U-shaped heating element pushed into the center of the rivet. I tied just using a solder iron and it look poor.