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66 L79 Intake

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  • Frank C.
    Very Frequent User
    • August 31, 2003
    • 171

    66 L79 Intake

    Good Morning,

    My engine is ready to reassemble after rebuild. I have a question about the intake. I would like to clean the underside of the intake, including under the riveted on metal plate. I need some help.

    1. What is the best way to remove the rivets?

    2. Where can I buy new rivets to replace the ones I remove?


    Frank


    L79 Intake Underside.jpg
    Frank Clark
    U.S. Army Retired, current serving DoD Civilian
    C1 1962 300hp, 4spd. Black/Fawn
    C2 1966 Coupe, L79, A01, C60, J50, M21, N40. Silver/Black
    C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, J70, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White
    C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White

  • Joe M.
    Very Frequent User
    • February 1, 2005
    • 590

    #2
    Re: 66 L79 Intake

    the archives has a discussion on this copied this from another post:The splined drive rivets (called a "pin") are P/N 10229247 - they come in a bag of ten

    Comment

    • Larry M.
      Extremely Frequent Poster
      • January 1, 1992
      • 2688

      #3
      Re: 66 L79 Intake

      Originally posted by Joe Mish (43421)
      the archives has a discussion on this copied this from another post:The splined drive rivets (called a "pin") are P/N 10229247 - they come in a bag of ten
      Once the original rivets are removed, the replacement rivets may not fit tight/secure enough in the holes. You don't want to lose one inside the engine. For this reason, many folks will drill and tap the holes for screws and use Loctite on the threads.

      Larry

      Comment

      • Joe L.
        Beyond Control Poster
        • February 1, 1988
        • 43211

        #4
        Re: 66 L79 Intake

        Originally posted by Larry Mulder (20401)
        Once the original rivets are removed, the replacement rivets may not fit tight/secure enough in the holes. You don't want to lose one inside the engine. For this reason, many folks will drill and tap the holes for screws and use Loctite on the threads.

        Larry
        Larry and Frank------


        This is what I recommend. Also, use red (high strength) Lock-Tite

        If you use the replacement drive pins, use green Lock-Tite on them.
        In Appreciation of John Hinckley

        Comment

        • Clem Z.
          Expired
          • January 1, 2006
          • 9427

          #5
          Re: 66 L79 Intake

          most all the shields i ever removed they were loaded with baked oil inside so what good does the shield do ????

          Comment

          • Joe L.
            Beyond Control Poster
            • February 1, 1988
            • 43211

            #6
            Re: 66 L79 Intake

            Originally posted by Clem Zahrobsky (45134)
            most all the shields i ever removed they were loaded with baked oil inside so what good does the shield do ????



            clem-----


            I think the theory is that it's far enough away from the manifold heat that no oil will become encrusted on the bottom of it. And, perhaps more importantly, any that gets under the shield and gets "coked" will be retained so that pieces of it do not, from time-to-time, drop into the engine.
            In Appreciation of John Hinckley

            Comment

            • Clem Z.
              Expired
              • January 1, 2006
              • 9427

              #7
              Re: 66 L79 Intake

              Originally posted by Joe Lucia (12484)
              clem-----


              I think the theory is that it's far enough away from the manifold heat that no oil will become encrusted on the bottom of it. And, perhaps more importantly, any that gets under the shield and gets "coked" will be retained so that pieces of it do not, from time-to-time, drop into the engine.
              i have seen some aluminum after market manifold without the shield and the only thing showing was a little brownish stain in the heat riser crossover area. maybe GM was in it for the long haul.

              Comment

              • Gary S.
                Super Moderator
                • February 1, 1984
                • 457

                #8
                Re: 66 L79 Intake

                I don't know what level of restoration you are trying to achieve on your intake or what has been posted on the TDB about Jerry McNeish's reskinning process for aluminum intakes, but for $120 plus shipping, I think it is a super value. The heat shield is removed and reattached....everything is as clean as a newly cast piece....top, bottom and even inside the ports. Pictures of my 67 350 hp intake attached I just got back. It looks painted, but it is not. A paint that matches the color exactly if you want to paint your black phosphated bolts, head area etc. is Martin Senour Hi Temp Aluminum #7270 available at Napa stores. I also had McNeish do my valve covers and exhaust manifolds....awesome.

                IntakeReskinnedTop2.jpgIntakeReskinnedEnd2.jpgIntakeReskinnedBottom.jpgIntakeReskinnedInside.jpg
                Avatar--My first ever vette, owned 3X since 1977, restored 1993-2024. Top Flight Award 9/14/24

                Comment

                • Frank C.
                  Very Frequent User
                  • August 31, 2003
                  • 171

                  #9
                  Re: 66 L79 Intake

                  Thanks to all for the replies. I removed the rivets as advised. There was a fair amount of crud, so I am glad I did this. After seeing the examples here, I am contacting Jerry Mcniesh to get lead time on the finish restoration.
                  Frank Clark
                  U.S. Army Retired, current serving DoD Civilian
                  C1 1962 300hp, 4spd. Black/Fawn
                  C2 1966 Coupe, L79, A01, C60, J50, M21, N40. Silver/Black
                  C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, J70, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White
                  C20 1966 Custom Camper, L30, M49, N40, G60, Saddle/White

                  Comment

                  • Timothy B.
                    Extremely Frequent Poster
                    • April 30, 1983
                    • 5183

                    #10
                    Re: 66 L79 Intake

                    When I removed the heat shield on my 67 300hp cast manifold there was approx 3/8" thick crusted oil that formed on the manifold, that exhaust crossover must get pretty hot to do this. After the manifold was shot peened at the machine shop the casting looked like new inside and out.

                    If I were to do it over again, I would use the stainless plate with the dime shaped hole that inserts into the heat crossover hole in the intake gasket, I believe it's part of the gasket set and I feel the plenum would be hot enough for proper gasoline vaporizing. The new GM rivets had a nice spline so they were tight going in when the shield was reinstalled.

                    Comment

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