66 L79 Intake

[Frank C.]

Good Morning,

My engine is ready to reassemble after rebuild. I have a question about the intake. I would like to clean the underside of the intake, including under the riveted on metal plate. I need some help.

1. What is the best way to remove the rivets?

2. Where can I buy new rivets to replace the ones I remove?


Frank


L79 Intake Underside.jpg

[Joe M.]

Re: 66 L79 Intake

the archives has a discussion on this copied this from another post:The splined drive rivets (called a "pin") are P/N 10229247 - they come in a bag of ten

[Larry M.]

Re: 66 L79 Intake

the archives has a discussion on this copied this from another post:The splined drive rivets (called a "pin") are P/N 10229247 - they come in a bag of ten

Once the original rivets are removed, the replacement rivets may not fit tight/secure enough in the holes. You don't want to lose one inside the engine. For this reason, many folks will drill and tap the holes for screws and use Loctite on the threads.

Larry

[Joe L.]

Re: 66 L79 Intake

Once the original rivets are removed, the replacement rivets may not fit tight/secure enough in the holes. You don't want to lose one inside the engine. For this reason, many folks will drill and tap the holes for screws and use Loctite on the threads.

Larry

Larry and Frank------


This is what I recommend. Also, use red (high strength) Lock-Tite

If you use the replacement drive pins, use green Lock-Tite on them.

[Clem Z.]

Re: 66 L79 Intake

most all the shields i ever removed they were loaded with baked oil inside so what good does the shield do ????

[Joe L.]

Re: 66 L79 Intake

most all the shields i ever removed they were loaded with baked oil inside so what good does the shield do ????

clem-----


I think the theory is that it's far enough away from the manifold heat that no oil will become encrusted on the bottom of it. And, perhaps more importantly, any that gets under the shield and gets "coked" will be retained so that pieces of it do not, from time-to-time, drop into the engine.

[Clem Z.]

Re: 66 L79 Intake

clem-----


I think the theory is that it's far enough away from the manifold heat that no oil will become encrusted on the bottom of it. And, perhaps more importantly, any that gets under the shield and gets "coked" will be retained so that pieces of it do not, from time-to-time, drop into the engine.

i have seen some aluminum after market manifold without the shield and the only thing showing was a little brownish stain in the heat riser crossover area. maybe GM was in it for the long haul.

[Gary S.]

Re: 66 L79 Intake

I don't know what level of restoration you are trying to achieve on your intake or what has been posted on the TDB about Jerry McNeish's reskinning process for aluminum intakes, but for $120 plus shipping, I think it is a super value. The heat shield is removed and reattached....everything is as clean as a newly cast piece....top, bottom and even inside the ports. Pictures of my 67 350 hp intake attached I just got back. It looks painted, but it is not. A paint that matches the color exactly if you want to paint your black phosphated bolts, head area etc. is Martin Senour Hi Temp Aluminum #7270 available at Napa stores. I also had McNeish do my valve covers and exhaust manifolds....awesome.

IntakeReskinnedTop2.jpgIntakeReskinnedEnd2.jpgIntakeReskinnedBottom.jpgIntakeReskinnedInside.jpg

[Frank C.]

Re: 66 L79 Intake

Thanks to all for the replies. I removed the rivets as advised. There was a fair amount of crud, so I am glad I did this. After seeing the examples here, I am contacting Jerry Mcniesh to get lead time on the finish restoration.

[Timothy B.]

Re: 66 L79 Intake

When I removed the heat shield on my 67 300hp cast manifold there was approx 3/8" thick crusted oil that formed on the manifold, that exhaust crossover must get pretty hot to do this. After the manifold was shot peened at the machine shop the casting looked like new inside and out.

If I were to do it over again, I would use the stainless plate with the dime shaped hole that inserts into the heat crossover hole in the intake gasket, I believe it's part of the gasket set and I feel the plenum would be hot enough for proper gasoline vaporizing. The new GM rivets had a nice spline so they were tight going in when the shield was reinstalled.