1958 convertable top

[Joseph S.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

Rick, When you are adjusting your tension arms, make sure you pull them down and not towards the rear. If you pull them down it should aid in the clearance between the front bow and the male latch.

Joe

[Rick E.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

Richard and Joseph, Had a power lose tonight so the computer shut down. I read Mike Colettas post, went out and tried it and it works, the only problem now is if i push the tension back and up like it says the deck lid wants to hit the arm. So i read Joseph post and he says down and back, the opposite . I will figure it out in the morning. Thanks guys,will report results. RICK

[Rick E.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

Update, tried both methods today, Mike Colettas did get the top in the well. I had to move the deck lid back to get clearance so the tension arm didnt rub the paint. Now that the top is in the well it doesnt seem to fold down enough to close the deck lid without causing problems. I was doing all of this today by myself, i think it is best to get a helper and try again. Colettas post did talk about getting the top to fit better but it didnt work for me, sometimes a guy just needs to walk away.

[Mike C.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

OK Rick,
Since my name is getting thrown around here, I'll try to give you a little better explaination. First off, it is very hard to adjust the top frame without having my hands on it, so stay with me if I mention something that you've already done.
1. You should adjust the top frame with the rag, pads, and straps OFF.
2. When you fold/unfold the bare top frame, you have to hold your fingers in between bows 3 and 4 to keep them separated. make sure that bow 2 is flopped forward, and hold the rear bow up off of the fuel tank cover so that it doesn't get caught on the screws. Having the frame stripped of all of it's components INITALLY, gives you a lot more adjustment.
3. Basically, you have 4 adjustments to do.

a. up/down at the outboard pivot points
b. fore/aft at the outboard pivot points
c. fore/aft at the header to windshield frame
d. attenuation (upward pull) at the center of the sideglass

4. Roll your windows up, put the top frame up. Adjust the outboard plates for a good fit to the window. About 3/8" all the way around. Keep in mind that as the window is lowered/raised all of the angles change. If you adjust the header plate (c above), you will change the angle/height of the frame at the rear of the glass. The lower part of the frame, behind the sideglass will be fairly high (1" plus) off of the decklid. Look at the forward edge of the arm where it comes into the body. This area will be very close to hitting the body. When you do this adjustment, you are setting the main pivot point of the frame. If the frame hits the decklid latch on the way down, the pivot point is to far aft.
5. Temporarily lock the attenuating arm in place, and fold the top into the well. All you care about at this point is that the top folds into the well without hitting the deck latch.
6. I next set the attenuating arms. Put the top up. Loosen the attenuating arm bolts. Using a towel doubled up on the header (you should have a towel on the decklid also), and a short piece of 2 X 4 or something about 1 1/2" thick, lift up the header AT THE CENTER SPLIT OF FRAME ABOVE THE SIDEGLASS, put the 2 X 4 on top of the windshield frame. Pull back on the attenuating arm while in this position, and temporarily tighten. What you should have is the side rails straight, with the header bow OFF of the windshield about 1 to 1 1/2" or so. The reason for this is simple. All that the attenuating arm is for is to pull up at the center of the sideglass as the top is folded to its up position. By setting it with a spacer, you are going a little over center, to make sure that it pulls up hard.
7. Now, when you go to fold the top into the well, you'll probably find that because of the above adjustment, the top will bind up as it folds, just before it gets to the bottom. Loosen the top bolt of the attenuating bracket just a little, and let it move forward. The top should fold all the way down.
8. Lift it back into position, and latch it. If the sides don't pull upward, start over with step 6 above.

Window placement, front bow adjustment, windshield installation, and bodywork ALL affect to top fit. If you can't get it to work correctly with the above steps, you might look at one of the other areas. Hope this helps. Stay with it, it can be pretty frustrating.

Mike Coletta

[Richard M.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

Mike,

Thanks for jumping in with the follow up and that superb explanation.

I'll be keeping a copy for future reference, and I'm sure others will use it as a installation guide in the future.

Rich

[Rick E.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

Mike, Thanks for the help on the top!!!! I just read the last post i wrote and i said your adjustments didnt work was not what was trying to say. When i got the top in the well after chipping the paint and tring to close the lid (that wont) and tried to adjust the arm to make the top lay flat ( that didnt) i was frustrated and quit.Today is a new day i will try again, i do thank you for your help! RICK

[Dennis C.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

Mike,

That was the best explanation of the adjustment I have ever read.

Dennis

[Rick E.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

Mike, i have made a few attempts again today , first i did lube all the pivot points, this seemed to help the top fold up smoother. I dont have it done yet , i am gaining but this isnt easy.Its in the well but wont fold up tight enough to shut the deck lid and the tension bar is to close to the lid to shut it. I had a short day today , hope friday is better.

[Rick E.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

I had a great talk with Mike today on the phone, a very nice guy! I will most likely have to buy a new top and start over . Didnt do enough adjusting before the pads and rag top was installed. Plus i had the top on to tight, if you watch the Al Knock video it says you cant get it to tight, i figured i would really make it tight, not the right thing to do. After talking to Mike i was able to get the top in the well and close the deck lid, also found out i had the rear bow bale latches upside down, this made the top fit the deck lid right but made the top to tight. I unstapled the front header and tried to loosen the top but its not looking good.

[John H.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

I had a great talk with Mike today on the phone, a very nice guy! I will most likely have to buy a new top and start over . Didnt do enough adjusting before the pads and rag top was installed. Plus i had the top on to tight, if you watch the Al Knock video it says you cant get it to tight, i figured i would really make it tight, not the right thing to do. After talking to Mike i was able to get the top in the well and close the deck lid, also found out i had the rear bow bale latches upside down, this made the top fit the deck lid right but made the top to tight. I unstapled the front header and tried to loosen the top but its not looking good.

Rick -

When Paragon did their '58 "Rex" restoration project in 2004, I documented the entire project and wrote a continuing series of feature articles in "Corvette Enthusiast" magazine from start to finish.

The top installation was done by C.H. Schultz Trim in Flint, Michigan, who have been in the auto interior business for 95 years under the same family. I spent three days at Schultz documenting the top installation, and I still recall Tony, the installer, saying repeatedly that nothing mattered more than getting the top frame and all of its component bows and linkages adjusted and fitted properly before even thinking about the pads and top skin. Tony spent most of two days dealing only with the fit of the top frame and weatherstrips before actually installing the pads and skin, which he called "duck soup" with a properly-fitted top frame. Several photos below taken during his detailed setup procedure for the top frame.

[Mike C.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

I still recall Tony, the installer, saying repeatedly that nothing mattered more than getting the top frame and all of its component bows and linkages adjusted and fitted properly before even thinking about the pads and top skin. Tony spent most of two days dealing only with the fit of the top frame and weatherstrips before actually installing the pads and skin, which he called "duck soup" with a properly-fitted top frame. Several photos below taken during his detailed setup procedure for the top frame.

This is SOOOOO TRUE!!! It's really no different than body prep/prime when painting. All of the work is in the prep.........The painting part is as easy as "duck soup".

Mike Coletta

[Rick E.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

Update, After a good night sleep went out today and started over. I was able to restaple the rag on the header and loosen the top (just squeaked by on the material). I adjusted the outer brackets and inner attenuation arms but the arms still hit the deck lid. I looked at the attenuation arm lower brackets and they were bent outward too far causing my arms to hit the deck lid. I used a 2 in. cargo tie down strap and pulled the brackets together so the angle was correct. Now the top is tight, the top will go in the the well and the deck lid will close. I might have to do a final adjustment on the attenuation arms to get the window weatherstrip to fit but now we have some room to readjust and not hit the deck lid. Now I need to repaint the deck lid. FUN ,FUN. Thanks to everyone that helped and Mike Coletta you are the man. Thanks! RICK

[Rick E.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

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[Richard M.]

Re: 1958 convertable top

Rick,

Glad you got together with Mike and got it worked out. The top looks quite nice.