Calling all 1954 gurus!

[Bill F.]

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Guess the guidance I am looking for is what are the major pitfalls to look for in these very early cars? Aside from obvious frame rust, are there substructures in the cowl or elsewhere? I know, I know - this would be a negative cash flow project. Thanks in advance for your comments, guidance, or outright attempts at an intervention!

[Chris S.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

very cool
Is there any laid glass parts? like the doors etc.... meaning can you see the texture of the fiberglass weave
many early cars used leftover parts and some of the parts may show the weave
there is no sub structure
Is the block a 911 block? Check the stamp pad also
Is the head correct?

[Mike M.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

no tranny drain pan on a cast iron powerglide. mike

[Brett H.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

Rear crossmember (rust through where it's wleded and rivetted to the frame ends)
Hinge areas for the hood, trunk and decklid (repaired or cracked)

[Bill F.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

Hey Chris,

The underside of the hood, the convertible top well, and the trunk all appear "coarse" and unfinished. Would these areas have been painted? The trunk almost looks natural.
Light was too bad, and the grease too heavy to get the numbers off the block - I will be better prepared next time. Is the number for the head visible w/o removing the valve cover? If not, any other ways to identify?

I agree - cool find. I've always had a soft spot for the early cars. I'll keep you posted. Bill

[Bill F.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

Thanks Brett,

I'll add those areas to the list of places to check.

[Bill F.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

Thanks Mike,

Is there just a drain plug in the bottom of the casing? Any way to check what's going on inside the transmission with it in the car?
Or do you just change the fluid and drive test it?

[Mike E.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

Underside of hood should be black, as should radio speaker screens. Master cylinder is replacement. Car is intriguing!

[Brett H.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

Thanks Mike,

Is there just a drain plug in the bottom of the casing? Any way to check what's going on inside the transmission with it in the car?
Or do you just change the fluid and drive test it?

These old PG's are tough. You won't be a ble to see inside. I guarentee you it will be leaking.

The engine area, trunk and decklid areas will be rough. Only the outside body panels were really "finished" for painting. 54's made in late Feb-early March will likely have cloth panels visible somewhere on the car. "Many" leftover panels from Flint were being used at that point.

[Henry A.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

Great find...keep us informed. Good luck on scoring the purchase.

[Ed H.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

First thing I would do is photo-photo-photo, those of us that have experience need to see very good photos of all sections of the body, engine, and interior. At that time a much better eval could be made on the car. The Vin# would indicate the build date was approximalely May 3rd 1954. You may need to know how many miles on the vehicle since New York rebuild. Once you get the car cleaned up, including engine, photo (closeups) of all parts. You mentioned HPOF, that is an AACA term. NCRS is Bowtie. I don't understand you explanation of the paint and finish, need photos (closeup). The head casting is on the front top of the head and can been observed with a flashlight in the dark or just eyeball in the light. You did not say that you had a copy of the Tech Info Manual & Judging Guide, purchased from NCRS. that is a must. If your Corvette guy has experience with NCRS resto you should not have a problem. As you know, original only occurs once. It may be that you may have a Bowtie Candidate, that is if the original redo in NY was not done with non OEM parts. If all your numbers, according to the TMJG are present and the paint is original the only non OEM part would be a new convertible top. It is sad Mr. Kennedy is no longer with us. If the trans is a problem (seals) due to lack of use, the other problem will be in the kick down rod from the carb bell crank to the trans. Prior to starting the engine pump some engine oil into the cyclinders and let it sit for a few days. Then turn the engine over, w/o spark plugs, via the front crank pully. You can do most of the work yourself, the car is very simple to work on. I would purchase the Assemply Instruction Manual from NCRS and go page by page. Check the Tach and see how many rev's are indicated as well as the odometer. Are there miles listed on the odometer. compare the odometer to the rev counter at the bottom of the tach. This may tell you a story. Check the numbers on the windshield and the side glass for proper date codes. I noticed the photo of the engine compartment, the rocker should have a decal on the top which states 'BLUE FLAME", in white letters with red speed streaks, andwith a white "150" within a white outline arrow pointing forward. The process is fun, you begin to feel like a detective. Have fun.

[Bill F.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

IMG_0182.jpgIMG_0184.jpgThanks for all responses to date! Attached pix of the inside of the trunk, and detail near the gas door may help w/ questions about the underside of panels and the general condition of the body finish. If you can increase the size of the gas door detail it shows the condition that exists over the whole body. This condition is uniform, not spotty. Ed, I do have the Judging Guide and have been doing my homework for my next visit! Need to order the assembly manual and get it headed this way today.

[Peter R.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

Bill,

From the pictures, looks like a really good candidate for purchase. If the VIN ends with 01431, the build date is approximately Feb. 19, 1954 (the VINs started at 1000, as they did on Bill's '56). The valve cover is not only missing the "Blue Flame 150" decals, but the oil filler cap should be at the front and the embossed "Chevrolet" should be centered front to back, so the valve cover is not right (all the more reason to check the head (ends in 241) and block numbers (ends in 911)). Might want to crawl underneath and check for original transmission. The master cylinder cap is wrong--should be cast iron with hex on top; but the cylinder itself might be right--you need to check its numbers--casting number should end in 233 (but not enlarged font). I see a pretty shiny brake line on right side of engine, so maybe brake lines have been replaced, which is good from a safety viewpoint. Air cleaners are on upside down. Ignition shielding is missing (2 pieces)--originals are hard to find and metal repros are around $1000 +/-. You should have three coaxial condensers--one that mounts on the ignition shielding is most likely not there; two more on a special bracket under the voltage regulator--again, these are hard to find and about $100 each, maybe up to $150 each. Looks like jack handle might not be there (about $40 for repro). Is the jack present? On a car this early, should be in the well behind the right wheel house--you probably know what original jacks cost--a lot. Is the lug wrench present? Engine is missing two clips that help route the choke cables. Are the starter, generator, voltage regulator, horn relay, and starter relay correct.? Looks like the tach drive distributor is there (I can see the cable). Are spiral shocks present? How is the wiring--largely cloth-covered and subject to deterioration and resultant shorts. Is original Eaton gas cap present (same as on your '56)?--originals are hard to find and repros are quite expensive ($150-300). Fuel pump should have glass dome (replacements don't), as would fuel filter (on left side of engine). According the judging manual, this car is a bit early to have a single hood release -- it says cars up to VIN 01500 had dual release knobs, but there's probably some uncertainty in the starting VIN for this running change. Are the wiper cables in place? You might want to check inside the wheel openings for past body damage repairs. Does a single key fit both the trunk lock and ignition? The assembly manual really only applies to body assembly for '53-55, so it's not all that useful in my opinion--certainly not as useful as the AIM for '56-57. Even the judging manul for these years is a bit on the thin side, but useful nonetheless. Noland Adam's "The Complete Corvette Restoration & Technical Guide--Vol. 1," which you might already have, is an excellent reference on these cars.

All the above potential problem areas are pretty easy to fix unless the engine block/head or transmission is not right. Best of luck. I hope you get it. Keep us up-to-date on how it goes.

Pete

[Bill F.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

Thanks Pete. More great information. Can't wait to get back to the car to do some more digging.
I have not found the jack, but there are a couple boxes of parts, and I did not pull the spare out of the well although the jack was not visible.
Any thoughts on how much it costs to have the original radio gone through?
This is probably in the tech/judging guide, but where are the casting numbers on the powerglide and what should they be?
Right now it looks like Sunday before I can get back in.
Thanks to you and to all for the help so far, Bill

[Chris S.]

Re: Calling all 1954 gurus!

it is a flipper car - so it is an early car
the dash rear view mirror is not a correct mirror - fyi.....
List of to do's - get the NCRS judging manual and the Nolan Adams restoration book