Timing Lights for a C2

[Gerard F.]

I'm looking for a timing light where you can set the initial advance you want, and then be sure that it is set at that initial, and then check total advance at various RPMs. I see all these digital timing lights on ebay and I am getting confused.

What's the best timing light for a 67, to be able to set the initial advance, as well as read the advance at any RPM.

Any recommendations

[Clem Z.]

Re: Timing Lights for a C2

here is the one i have used for years. http://www.jegs.com/i/Flaming%20Rive...FcRU4AodLzcA7A

[Joe R.]

Re: Timing Lights for a C2

Jerry,

I asked a similar question a while back. Here's the thread:

https://www.forums.ncrs.org/showthre...ich-one-to-buy

I wound up buying a dial back timing light at Sears. I haven't had a chance to try it yet. I can dig up more info on it if you're interested.

Joe

[John D.]

Re: Timing Lights for a C2

Bought this Snap On timing light from my local craig's list for $40.

[Donald O.]

Re: Timing Lights for a C2

Bought this Snap On timing light from my local craig's list for $40.

Thats the same one I have John. I've had mine for eons, paid a bit more for mine from the SO truck.

DonO

[Joe C.]

Re: Timing Lights for a C2

You'll need a high quality dial-back light, but you'll still have to fiddle with it's dial when checking the advance program. If you already have a good, working timing light, then you can save money, watch the timing mark move in real-time while manipulating the throttle with your free hand, and eliminate any second guessing by laminating one of these to your engine's harmonic dampener:

[Wayne M.]

Re: Timing Lights for a C2

.... I wound up buying a dial back timing light at Sears. I haven't had a chance to try it yet. I can dig up more info on it if you're interested. ...

Here's a quote from my post in that 2009 link provided above.

Check out Sears -- around the end of August, they had a Craftsman Model 21023 Advance (ie. dial-back) timing light at $60 ($10 off regular price). Bought it, but haven't tried it out yet -- looks like a quality piece.

Well I hooked it up and got about 40 seconds use before it went totally dark; probably the Xenon bulb burned out. Unfortunately this was years ago and a country apart (Canada user vs. US-purchased)

[John H.]

Re: Timing Lights for a C2

I've had an Actron CP-7519 dial-back timing light for many years, and it works great, especially for mapping your advance curve; they may have a newer version these days (www.actron.com).


ActronCP7519.jpg

[William C.]

Re: Timing Lights for a C2

I cheat and use a distributor machine to map the curve...something leftover from my dragracing period (NHRA)

[Paul J.]

Re: Timing Lights for a C2

I've owned several items from Actron thoughout the years. They're cheap, they work well, and they last a long time. I bought the engine analyzer in the 70's, and the timing light is my second one (about 12 years old). I've also got some multi-testers and stuff from Actron.

IMG_0865.jpg

[Michael J.]

Re: Timing Lights for a C2

I used to use these strictly, but now I just use them to get close if it is a new setup after some major work. Otherwise, I adjust it by feel, sound, idle, and vacuum. I find that fine tuning works the best to really dial it in properly. Oh and forgot to add that on old engines all the components that effect the timing light get out of whack anyway, so the numbers are not usually good enough using factory specs.

[Gerard F.]

Here's the new toy

I only cut myself twice getting the manual out of the blister pack but here's the new toy:



It's an Actron 7529 digital timing light. So I'm going digital now.

Plan to map the present curve with my original 67 distributor first. (which I'm very happen with, since Joe Ciaravino worked it over a few years ago).
Then I'll change the bunged up shaft and try to replicate, or improve the curve.

So I have another project, and it will be fun. Stay tuned in, but it may be a while the way I work.

Darn those blister packs.

FYI Checked all over the internet and Amazon had the best price

[Timothy B.]

[Joe C.]

Re: Here's the new toy

I only cut myself twice getting the manual out of the blister pack but here's the new toy:



It's an Actron 7529 digital timing light. So I'm going digital now.

Plan to map the present curve with my original 67 distributor first. (which I'm very happen with, since Joe Ciaravino worked it over a few years ago).
Then I'll change the bunged up shaft and try to replicate, or improve the curve.

So I have another project, and it will be fun. Stay tuned in, but it may be a while the way I work.

Darn those blister packs.

FYI Checked all over the internet and Amazon had the best price

Jerry,
It appears to have Jet-Age design!
Was it designed in a wind tunnel?
Joe

[Joe C.]

Re: Here's the new toy

Timothy,
With all due respect, I disagree with the above for a number of reasons, and the most obvious problem I have with it, is that if the advance weights are not restrained before advancing the distributor's static timing, the engine speed will continue to increase and the EGT will continue to drop by virtue of the flyweights' deployment. A condition that will likely develop by following the guideline, is that certain engines will detonate at cruise tip-in throttle because their advance programs may call for very late deployment of the flyweights. This condition will require limiting the amount of fully deployed vacuum advance. Most "old school" SBC Chevy engines with iron, closed chamber heads of 58-65cc produce maximum torque at WOT advance anywhere between 36-40 degrees. The only way to measure where the sweet spot is, is with a dyno or by tuning for highest trap speed at the race track. If an engine can tolerate say, 20 degrees static timing, then the advance slot must be shortened (usually by brazing) to limit the total WOT spark advance to the optimal spot which lies between 36 and 40 degrees BTDC. Vacuum advance full deployment will probably also have to be limited to prevent part/light throttle detonation.

The best method is to work backwards from the engine's optimized WOT spark advance setting. Hypothetically, let's assume that your engine is dialed-in to produce maximum torque (which is measured on a dyno, or empirically arrived at on the race track) at 38 degrees BTDC. You should next give the engine as much initial timing as it will tolerate without detonation, and again, let's assume that this is 18 degrees BTDC. You must then shorten the advance slot so that it allows no more than 20 crank degrees spark advance (38-18=20). With a bronze bushing installed, most old school distributors allow 24-26 degrees mechanical advance, so 4-6 degrees must be "taken out". Next, work with the mechanical advance program so that the spark advance is "all-in" ASAP, without detonation. Finally, adjust the limit for vacuum advance so that maximum cruise spark advance is the lesser of: 1) about 52 degrees or 2) the point where cruise tip-in/part throttle detonation disappears.