67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

[Wayne M.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

... I wonder if you, or others, have the maximum centrifugal advance spec for the above distributor numbers. My 1111194, and the 1111196, both have 30d @ 5100rpm. I'm assuming that the maximum advance is controlled by the geometry of the cam, weights and pin on the bottom of the cam.

My Delco Test Spec's book shows the same 30 degrees @ 5100 rpm as being the max centrifugal advance (2550 distr rpm @ 14-16 distr. degrees for the 194, and same but at tighter range 14-15 distr. deg. for the 196).

[John D.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

54W football is was a typical service replacement that DelcoRemy used. I had or maybe still have a NOS service replacement fuel injection main shaft that the parts book says fits 62 to64. The football is a 54W. Not the same as a 54 you know.
Don Baker taught me the above.
He has reused a lot of the original footballs on new shafts. At least in the old days.
Nice to see DW is in the massage business.

[David L.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

Dave,

Thanks for the info. I found an NOS shaft on ebay with the part #1961402. The cam, from what I can see, looks exactly like my original. Can you look up what distributor this shaft is intended for.

Jerry,

My 1969 Chev. Parts Catalog (Oct. 1968) lists the 1961402 shaft for 62-64 Corvettes (1st Design)(exc. F.I., T. Ign.) w/ 1110984, 1110985, 1111024, and 1111062 distributors). GM # 1961402 also appears in my 1963 catalog (Oct. 1962) but only for the 1963 Corvette (exc. F.I) w/1111024 dist.

Shaft # 1955801 is listed for the 1962 Corvette w/1110984 & 1110985 distributors in my 1963 catalog.

GM # 1955801 was replaced with GM # 1961402 in May 1963 as per Parts History.

Dave

[Timothy B.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

The mainshaft football on my 63 distributor has 54 stamped into it.

Jerry, you can use the screw in bushing with a drill bit the diameter of the bushing hole to start your hole so it stays centered and knocks off any knub in the housing. I usually then drill completely through with the correct size bit for a interference fit with the new button stem and do like Dick says above, cut it 1/8" short and fill with J&B weld.

The only thing to be aware of is the larger diameter of the bronze button needs to be set flush inside the housing so you can reuse the thrust washer between the tach gear and screw in bushing. You can mill the hole approx .060 deep or chuck the new button in a drill press and file it to a smaller diameter to fit inside the drilled hole. Make the first part of the hole larger and set it with some J&B weld, it will never move because of the interference fit pressing in the button and the epoxy holding it on the outside and around the larger inside hole. You will never know the distributor has been touched.

On my 67 300hp car the best curve was 10* inital and approx 28* centrifugal all in by 3000-3200. Car ran with more response but I changed it back to the original parts because I did not want to loose them. I used a #163 vacuum advance control with this custom curve which pulled to limit at 16" vacuum so no problem with the engine at idle making 18-19" vacuum but it retarted very fast so no rattle.

[Terry M.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

Joe; others --- just a word about those two footballs in the pic above; both are from K66 distr's. For some reason, the TI units (per P&A catalogs) seem to take a different shaft than the equivalent h.p. points distr's.

The one on the left is from a 1974 service 1111157 with a 4K9 band; the one on the right is from a tach drive Camaro [OTC ?] racing distr. 1111267__9D14.

Wayne and others,
The difference in the TI v points shafts (in addition to the football for different mechanical advance curves) is in the lobes to actuate points v the toothed wheel to break the magnetic field on the TI. It is easy to miss the forest for the trees.

[Page C.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

Hi Jerry,
From what I have found, The 1111196 and 1111194 both used the same #1968080 shaft and had the number #165 auto cam on top of the shaft. The rotating pole plate was a #530CCW. I plan on removing the shaft cam from the old stripped shaft and brazening the #165 to the repro shaft.
Page

[Joe C.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

Wayne and others,
The difference in the TI v points shafts (in addition to the football for different mechanical advance curves) is in the lobes to actuate points v the toothed wheel to break the magnetic field on the TI. It is easy to miss the forest for the trees.

The difference should be in the weight base/points cam and the pole piece, all of which fit over the interchangeable shaft.

[Wayne M.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

.... I plan on removing the shaft cam from the old stripped shaft and brazening the #165 to the repro shaft. ....

Hi Page -- My understanding is that it's not a simple job of brazing the football to a new shaft, but to get the dimple on the cam gear to be in line with the tip on the bakelite rotor.

(per Delco drawings in Colvin's book) The shaft roll-pin hole has to be parallel to the engine centerline, and the football has to be positioned so that the center tooth on the cam gear is 90 degrees to engine centerline .... whew; gets too complicated to put into words .

[John H.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

The difference should be in the weight base/points cam and the pole piece, all of which fit over the interchangeable shaft.

That's correct - points distributors have a separate cam plate that slides on the mainshaft (see photo below), and T.I. distributors have a pole piece plate that slides on the mainshaft; the mainshafts are the same.


DistCamPllate2.jpg

[Gerard F.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

Jerry------


GM #1961402 was used for 1962-E64 Corvettes with distributors GM #1110984, 1110985, 1111024 and 1111062. These were used on 250, 300, 340, and 365 HP engines.

One more thing: if the autocam on the 1961402 shaft is exactly the same as the one on your 1968080 shaft then I do not understand how or why there would be any difference between the two shafts (i.e. why one part number would not have been used instead of two)?

Joe,

I received that (supposedly) 1961402 shaft in an opened GM box. It does look like it has never been used.

I found that it looks exactly like my original 1968080 shaft. Below are the comparison photos:



The new 1961402 one is on the left and has 54W stamped on it . My original is on the right and has 165 stamped on the underside.



The original with the bunged up gear is on the top.



Does anyone see any differences? Shaft diameter and length are the same.

So it looks like I'm going to use the NOS one.

[Clem Z.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

Joe,

I received that (supposedly) 1961402 shaft in an opened GM box. It does look like it has never been used.

I found that it looks exactly like my original 1968080 shaft. Below are the comparison photos:



The new 1961402 one is on the left and has 54W stamped on it . My original is on the right and has 165 stamped on the underside.



The original with the bunged up gear is on the top.



Does anyone see any differences? Shaft diameter and length are the same.

So it looks like I'm going to use the NOS one.

make sure you wash out the dist housing to make sure no broken teeth are still in there stuck in the grease

[William C.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

Actually, if you take a close look at the "football" the configurations are not exact. I don't think it would make much difference, and is easily checked/corrected with a distributor machine, but there are (subtle) differences...

[Joe L.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

Actually, if you take a close look at the "football" the configurations are not exact. I don't think it would make much difference, and is easily checked/corrected with a distributor machine, but there are (subtle) differences...

Bill and Jerry------


I agree, there are subtle differences between the two.

[Gerard F.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

Bill, Joe,

Yea, I'm also noticing the subtle differences in the football, and there seems to be a slight rotation of the football to the pin hole at the bottom. Looks to me just eyeballing it, that the NOS football (54 W) is set about 5 d CCW from the pin than the original (165). This might make a difference in the position of the carb for the initial setting and maybe I might have to reverse the dimple to the #1 rotor position, or it might even help at my 67 distributor spec of 6 d initial. Not sure which way it will move. Right now at 6 d initial, the vacuum can is almost right up against the coil.

Bill, I am also finding that a distributor machine is rare antique item, and you are lucky to have one. I checked with the parts vendors, shops and even speed shops in my area (Sonora, CA in the foothills somewhat near Yosemite), and I just got laughs. One parts vendor told me that he knows a former retired owner of a parts house closed about 25 years ago, that has one stored in his garage. So, I'm going to follow up on that.

But, in the meantime I just ordered a new Actron digital timing light to do it on the car. (Amazon has the best price). I don't want to sent this distributor out, I'm a DIYer.

I'd appreciate any recommendations on the timing curve on my car and the way I drive. The distributor is the original 30d max centrifugal on a 67/327/300 with a 3.08 rear end. I normally cruise on highways at 2500-3500 rpm and usually try to stay at around 3000. But I live in hilly country, and sometimes I have to climb a hill in 1st at about 1500 rpm. The original spec for my 67 distributor is 30d at 5100 rpm. I never get to 5100 rpm with my rear end, so I don't think I ever get to maximum advance. I'm thinking about trying to bring it all in at 3000 rpm, but I don't want to screw up the power on hills at lower rpm.

Any recommendations?

[William C.]

Re: 67 Distributor shaft- Have I got the right one?

All in at 3000 is a good compromise, just work to get a smooth curve.