Clay bars on lacquer

[Michael J.]

About a year or so ago, I worked very hard to get rid of the swirl marks that were on my fairly new original lacquer paint on my '67, using Meguiar's #9 and then polishing with #7 (as recommended here, thanks). It looked great, and still does, but now I can feel a gritty surface on it that doesn't come off with washing/detailers. In the past on my other cars I have used clay bars and wetter to get rid of that embedded grit and dirt, but my other cars are enamel, urethane, or base coat/clear coat, not lacquer. Are clay bars safe to use without scratching the lacquer? I would hate to have to do that 2 day job over again. Thanks for your experiences.

[Patrick H.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

I've used a Meguiars clay bar with no problems at all. Go for it!

[Terry M.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

About a year or so ago, I worked very hard to get rid of the swirl marks that were on my fairly new original lacquer paint on my '67, using Meguiar's #9 and then polishing with #7 (as recommended here, thanks). It looked great, and still does, but now I can feel a gritty surface on it that doesn't come off with washing/detailers. In the past on my other cars I have used clay bars and wetter to get rid of that embedded grit and dirt, but my other cars are enamel, urethane, or base coat/clear coat, not lacquer. Are clay bars safe to use without scratching the lacquer? I would hate to have to do that 2 day job over again. Thanks for your experiences.

Mike,
I think I know what you are trying to convey, but there is an oxymoron in there somewhere. I guess it is like "original miles." BTW: I am still looking for those non-original miles. Sorry, I am not picking on you. It is just the Editor in me that I can not shake.

[Bill W.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

swirl marks are scratches on the surface caused by buffing , washing,wiping ,drying or just plain touching. Clay bar was designed to remove rail dust in clear coats. a claybar is light coumpound mixed with clay and is a long slow way of removing light improfections on base coat /clear coat .Do yourself a favor Buff (if needed) with a clean fine wool or foam pad . OR hand polish with any Meguiars wax with a cleaner and then wax with any quility Meguiers wax without cleaner, The trick is hand pressure ,direction and most of all using a "new"microfibre polishing cloth. At the St Louis factory they got a 5 minute or less buff job with paste coumpound and a wash job. swirl marks are just a part of the car and should never cost you any point deduction .

[Michael J.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

OK, thanks to all. To clarify, the swirl marks are now all gone after last year's work with #9 and #7. I am now just talking about getting rid of the embedded dirt/grit that I can feel with my fingers as I touch the paint surface, washing and polishing will not get rid of it. You're right Terry, I should have used punctuation and an extra, more descriptive word. I should have written: ....my fairly new, original type, lacquer paint.... It is a new paint job (4 years old), and they used the original type acrylic lacquer.

[Michael J.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

Mike,
I think I know what you are trying to convey, but there is an oxymoron in there somewhere. I guess it is like "original miles." BTW: I am still looking for those non-original miles. .

Terry, didn't you just say this in another thread: "The 1970 has 61K miles (and they are all original) )" You mean no non-orginal miles on that '70?

[Terry M.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

OK, thanks to all. To clarify, the swirl marks are now all gone after last year's work with #9 and #7. I am now just talking about getting rid of the embedded dirt/grit that I can feel with my fingers as I touch the paint surface, washing and polishing will not get rid of it. You're right Terry, I should have used punctuation and an extra, more descriptive word. I should have written: ....my fairly new, original type, lacquer paint.... It is a new paint job (4 years old), and they used the original type acrylic lacquer.

Like I said, I knew what you were trying to say. I just sometimes can't resist myself. I know I shouldn't let things like that bother me; after all this IS the Internet where anything (well almost) goes.
Bill Williamson knows what he is talking about. He has painted, and run a GM body shop for his real job, and restored a few Corvettes too. I would take his word as gospel.

[Terry M.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

Terry, didn't you just say this in another thread: "The 1970 has 61K miles (and they are all original) )" You mean no non-orginal miles on that '70?

Yep That's why that smiley is there. I couldn't resist the chance at another zinger. Are we having fun today, or what?

[Gene M.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

Mike,
You should get the results using the #7 with a buffer and fine foam pad. Add water as ya go along to prevent dry out. Clean out pad and paint surface as you proceed. The grit you feel is from bugs and sap. The lacquer has a harder surface and most of the "stuff" is just stuck to the surface and not "cut into it".

[Michael J.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

I did try #7, and some very expensive carnauba cleaner wax, but still felt the rough surface, that is why I thought about my old favorite, clay with Griot's Speed Shine. But this PM I did clay bar a part of the top, and it was smooth as glass again. My '67 is in the garage, under a cover, all the time except when it is out on the road on trip to NCRS chapter meetings, club meetings, shows, etc. I live up a dirt/gravel county road with lots of New Mexico dust and dirt swirling around all the time. I am wondering if the first wax I put on, #7, is very soft and attractive to this dirt. Maybe I should try something else? The clay bar pulled out a bunch of dark gray residue, the color of my dirt around the place.

[Michael F.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

I have the non original miles on my 67, was an option original owner bought

[Matt L.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

I did try #7, and some very expensive carnauba cleaner wax, but still felt the rough surface, that is why I thought about my old favorite, clay with Griot's Speed Shine. But this PM I did clay bar a part of the top, and it was smooth as glass again. My '67 is in the garage, under a cover, all the time except when it is out on the road on trip to NCRS chapter meetings, club meetings, shows, etc. I live up a dirt/gravel county road with lots of New Mexico dust and dirt swirling around all the time. I am wondering if the first wax I put on, #7, is very soft and attractive to this dirt. Maybe I should try something else? The clay bar pulled out a bunch of dark gray residue, the color of my dirt around the place.

hi Michael,
i truly believe it is best and safest to claybar the paint. i have also done it to my laquer 66 with no issues. i then followed up with mequiers hand polish and ultimate quick wax.
i detail cars everyday for a living and i claybar every car whether it gets a hand wax or buff and polish. i do the glass also. i use soap and water while the car is still wet after a wash. it is best to have the paint good and clean,otherwise you are driving the particles back into the paint when you are buffing or hand polishing. the car will turn out better and smoother if you start out with a nice clean surface.

take care,
matt

[Michael J.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

Thanks Matt, car is done now. Here is a picture of the clay bar after one pass on one section of the roof. I did it twice, and the second side looked just as dirty as the first side. Under it is the car before I used the clay. And remember, this is after I had washed, used cleaner wax, and used detailer spray. Predictably, the horizontal surfaces were much worse than the vertical ones. Nothing touched this grit before the clay, but now it is smooth as a baby's bottom.

[Matt L.]

Re: Clay bars on lacquer

thats great Michael. you can wash and wash and that embedded dirt is going nowhere. good job.

take care,
matt